毕业论文中西服饰文化差异英语论文

and black, the north. These five colors were “principal colors,” and

in

some

dynasties

were

exclusive

to

the

garment

of

emperors

and

officials,

Common people were allowed to wear only secondary colors.”

(

③

Zhi 73) This

system of clothing colors had lasted to the Qing Dynasty and the yellow robe

had been the symbol of imperial power all the time. The red color is regarded

as

an

auspicious

color.

While

having

a

happy

event,

such

as

wedding,

the

bride

and

bridegroom

will

wear

red

clothes

and

shoes

in

ancient

China

to

show

their

happy

feelings

and

wishes

for

good

luck.

Today

Chinese people

still tend to choose red color on happy occasion.

However, in the western countries, the red color is too showy to be sexy.

The white and purple are more popular. White symbolizes purity, innocence

and

justice,

purple

means

nobility.

At

weddings,

the

bride

will

wear

white

wedding grown to symbolize her purity and nobility. In the medieval period,

the colorful windows of the unique church were decorated splendidly to guide

people to the heaven. So the designs with religious colors are adored. Jesus

teaches in a blue garment, and the Virgin Mary is usually depicted in a blue

mantle. So, blue is considered as the color for the spirit and the intelligent. It

is loved by many western people.

2.3 Pattern and ornaments

The

former

emphasizes

color

matching,

pattern

design,

the

effect

of

embroidery and the change of the clothing’s front piece, collar, sleeves, and

buckles

and

so

on.

Representing

the

Chinese

writers’

ideal

spirits,

plum

blossom, orchid, and chrysanthemum and pine tree can be commonly seen on

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Chinese

clothing.

Among

all

ornaments,

the

jade

is

the

most

popular

one.

However,

the

latter

pays

more

attention

to

the

lace

and

embroidery

of

the

neck, chest and sleeves. The patterns are mostly regular pomegranate grains

and water chestnut lines. Its layout is symmetrical, modeling full and colors

gorgeous.

The female attire is usually decorated with jewelry like pearls and

diamonds. Besides, the hat and gloves are indispensable ornaments. For men,

a hat and a walking stick are enough.

2.4 Material

The relationship of human to nature is also reflected in the choice of the

materials. During the Stone Age, Chinese invented the bone awl and the bone

needle

and

created

primitive

clothing

with

the

aid

of

these

tools.

Approximately

5000

years

ago,

China

was

in

the

Neolithic

Primitive

agriculture

and

the

textiles

industry.

At

first

people

use

plant

fiber,

such

as

linen,

ramie,

etc.,

and

animal

fibers,

such

as

wool

to

weave.

Later

they

discovered how to raise the silk worn and spin silk, and the pure silk clothes

were liked by many Chinese people, especially the wealthy. It is a symbol of

their

social

status.

Silk

is

a

great

contribution

to

human

life

from

Chinese

people, so it is impossible to talk Chinese clothing culture without silk.

Different

from

silk

culture

in

China,

flax

culture

prevails

in

ancient

Egypt, wool culture prevails in the Mesopotamia and cotton culture prevails

in

India.

Ancient

Greece

and

Ancient

Rome

have

no

pioneering

work

in

materials, and they imports flax and wool cultures from Mediterranean coasts

and

Upper

Paleozoic

civilizations.

As

for

silk,

although

ancient

Rome

has

touched silk from Far East through Silk Road in 138 BC, they were never able

to

understand

the

mysteries

of

this

beautiful

fabric.

Lately,

they

known

the

secrets of silk from two missionaries send to China by the Byzantine Empire.

Then

one

century

later,

the

first

silk

is

produced

in

Byzantine

Empire,

but

Europeans produced first silk until the Italian Renaissance in 13-14 century.

In a word, Chinese clothing prefers silk, cotton, linen and co-hemp while

the western one tends to use flax, wool, cotton and velvet. The silk is one of

the contributions China has made to the world. “W

e westerners have received

too much from the Chinese.”

(

④

法国服装设计师伊夫

·

·

洛朗，

中国美术馆

举办作品回顾展时的前言，

1985

年

5

月

﹚

The former adopts basting, hand

needle and patch while the latter pays more attention to adapting to clothing’s

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function in sewing craft.

2.5 Structure and Modeling

“

The

elegant

line

depends

primarily

on

the

structure

of

purity

and

refine ment.

”（

⑤

Yves

Saint

Laurent

）

It

reflects

that

the

structure

is

very

important for clothing. The structure of Chinese-style costume is completely

planar,

straight

and

comfortable.

However,

the

structure

of

Western-style

dress is stereo split type and suitable the body.

Chinese and western dress is designed by different body posture. So

it

forms

different

structure.

From

the

system

of

ancient

deep

clothing,

traditional

Chinese

clothing

had

adopted

the

structure

of

human

body

that

opened his hand flat and split his legs lightly. Therefore, the tailored clothing

is

straight

line,

whole

chip

and

flat-screen.

It

is

straight

and

comfortable,

simple and handy and also good for work. Dressed in Chinese- style costume,

you may fell very convenient. The structure of Chinese clothing feature is that

there is no shoulder seam on the shoulder, a thread links the front dress to the

back garment and even sleeves are also out of the body. If the width of fabric

is not wide enough, then add sleevelet at both sides of the sleeves. So there is

no “outside sleeve” in Chinese

-style clothing. That word is replaced by

“

chu

shou

”

which are starting from the middle of the body to the size of the palm.

According to the measurement of western-style clothes, the size of

“

chu shou

”

including

two

parts

data

that

half

shoulder

and

the

length

of

upper

limb.

Because western-style clothing emphasizes that it fits body type and thus the

structure

of

clothing

is

more

complex.

It

designs

collar,

clothing,

sleeves,

trouser legs and other main parts with some of its subsidiary, constitutes the

whole clothing and pants by the body structure's trunk, upper and lower limbs

in

all

parts.

While

each

of

the

major

components

is

in

accordance

with

the

body contour's length, short and thickness, composes irregularly tubular form

and

so

on.

Such

as

the

coarse

chest

circumference,

hipline

and

smaller

waistline,

smaller

collars,

clothing

constitutes

irregularly

tubular

body

and

ring-shaped

collar.

Western

clothing

is

a

fragmented,

curve-shaped,

three- dimensional

clothing,

its

most

notable

feature

is

the

shoulder

seam,

sleeves, the front of clothing and the back of garment are separate, the whole

garment

is

consist

of

many

pieces

of

garments

.

And

the

outline

of

the

garment is the arc- shaped or curve-shaped, as for coat, its chest circumference

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is loose, waistline is folded, hipline is release, and shoulders are oblique. The

whole

garment

sculpt

is

full

of

curve

shape,

which

is

undulating

and

three-dimensional structure, and completely compatible with the human body.

The

structure

of

Western-style

pants

is

completely

different

from

Chinese-style pants. The waist of Western-style pants is tight, when you wear

trousers, you should open the front, rear or side, and otherwise you don't wear

them.

Pants

are

split

into

four

pieces

on

all

sides,

both

sides

of

pants

legs

stitch seam, the outlines of pants legs are designed according to the shape of

hips and thighs, the upside is large and round, the underneath is narrower and

slightly straight. The back part of pants is big, but the front part is small. The

appropriate

level

of

Western-style

trousers

almost

wraps

a

material

outside

the body, which shows the curve of human body. The structure is very fit, so

western-style trousers are not wearing before and after.

Chinese

clothing

modeling

is

closed

and

implicative,

western

clothing

modeling is open and revealed. Some people also regard clothing modeling as

dress

design

or

style.

In

fact,

modeling

and

style

have

connections

and

differences.

Generally

speaking,

modeling

refers

to

the

contour

of

clothing,

which

is

a

big

picture,

such

as

the

popularly

loose

H-type

or

tight-fitting

X-type.

At

present,

Chinese

people

often

mix

the

clothing

modeling

and

clothing style. It is the shape of clothing design, but also the combination of

clothing inside sew and the decoration of detail. Traditional Chinese costumes

ask the human body to be tightly wrapped by the closely collar, wide clothing,

long sleeves and pants, skirts, and it seems like a pocket, the human body is

inside. It is extremely closed, conservative and dull. For thousands of years, if

it is not up and down separate

bottom

are

always

wrapped

by

leather

gear,

long

clothing

drags

to

the

ground

and

inside and outside of clothes are overlapping, these are commonly referred to

as “triple clothing” or “Five clothing

.

As western dress concept advocates revealing the human body, focusing

on

self-expression,

and

shows

off

the

beauty

of

its

own.

Consequently,

in

terms

of

clothing style,

it

becomes

open,

revealing

and varied.

All

types

of

bare, open styles are still the mainstream of western- style clothing, all kinds

of large collar, V-neck, short sleeve and waistcoat sleeves are frequently used.

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