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Change Of Chinese Clothing
Traditional Clothing
An
outstanding characteristic of traditional Chinese
clothing is not only an
external
expression
of
elegance,
but
also
an
internal
symbolism.
Each
and
every
piece
of
traditional
clothing
communicates
a
vitality
of
its
own.
This
combination of external form with
internal symbolism is clearly exemplified in
the
pair
of
fighting
pheasant
feathers
used
in
head
wear
originating
in
the
battle wear of the
Warring States period (475-221 B.C.). Two feathers
of a ho
bird
(a
type
pheasant
good
at
fighting)
were
inserted
into
the
head
wear
of
warriors
of this period to symbolize a bold and warlike
spirit.
Archaeological findings of
18,000 year-old artifacts such as bone sewing
needles
and
stone
beads
and
shells
with
holes
bored
in
them
attest
to
the
existence
of
ornamentation
and
of
sewing
extremely
early
in
Chinese
civilization. Variety and consistency
in clothing were roughly established by the
era
of
the
Yellow
Emperor
and
the
Emperors
Yao
and
Shun
(about
4,500
years
ago).
Remains
of
woven
silk
and
hemp
articles
and
ancient
ceramic
figures further demonstrate the
sophistication and refinement of clothing in the
Shang Dynasty (16th to 11th century
B.C.).
The three main types
of traditional Chinese clothing are the pien-fu,
the
ch'ang-p'ao, and the shen-i. The
pien-fu is an ancient two-piece ceremonial
costume of a tunic-like top extending
to the knees and a skirt or trousers
extending to the ankles. The
ch'ang-p'ao is a one-piece garment extending
from the shoulders all the way to the
heels. The shen-i is a cross between the
pien-fu and the ch'ang-p'ao; it
consists of a tunic and a skirt or trousers like
the
pien-fu, but the tunic and the
skirt are sewed together and essentially one
piece like the chang-pao. Consequently,
the shen-i was the most widely worn
of
the three types. Typical of these three types of
clothing were wide and
voluminous
sleeves and a very loose fit. Tunic and trousers
or tunic and skirt,
utilized a very
minimum number of stitches for the amount of cloth
used. So
because of their relatively
plain design and structure, embroidered edgings,
decorated bands, draped cloth or silks,
patterns on the shoulders, and sashes
were often added as ornamentation.
These varied designs came to be one of
the unique features of traditional
Chinese dress.
Darker
colors were favored over lighter ones in
traditional Chinese
clothing, so the
main color of ceremonial clothing tended to be
dark while
bright, elaborate tapestry
designs accented. Lighter colored clothing was
worn
more frequently by the common
people for everyday and around the house
use. The Chinese associate certain
colors with specific seasons: green
represents spring, red symbolizes
summer, white represents autumn, and
black symbolizes winter. The Chinese
are said to have a fully developed
system of matching, coordinating, and
contrasting colors and shades of light
and dark in apparel.
Contemporary Clothing
Today, Fashion designers use a mixture
of traditional and modern ideas to
create new fashions. These new fashions
also incorporate age-old motifs such
as
guardian deities, lions, and masks of Chinese
opera characters. Chinese
bronze is
another source of printed, woven, embroidered, and
applied design
for clothes. Some of the
distinctive designs include dragons, phoenixes,
clouds,
and lightning. Motifs from
traditional Chinese painting also end up in woven
or
printed fashion designs.
In modern society, men are seen at
social occasions wearing the dignified
and refined traditional Chinese long
gown, and women often wear the ch'i-p'ao,
a modified form of a traditional Ching
Dynasty fashion, on formal occasions.
The variations of height, length,
width, and ornamentation of the collar, sleeves,
skirt, and basic cut of this Oriental
fashion are limitless.
Many
accessories such as macramé
are used to
decorate shoulders,
bodices, pockets,
seams, and openings of clothing, as well as belts,
hair
ornaments, and necklaces. Some
successful examples of combinations of
modern and traditional fashion elements
are the modern bridal tiara, based on
a
Sung Dynasty design and the Hunan Province style
of embroidered sash
made in the
traditional colors of pure red, blue, and green.
From these
examples, it can be seen how
traditional Chinese dress is the foundation of
modern fashion. However, the Chinese
have also adopted many Western
styles
of clothing such as business suits and jeans.
译文:
中国服装的变迁
传统的服装
中国传统服饰的突出特点
是不仅优雅的外在表现,
也是一个内部的象征。
每
一件传统小菜衣服传达了自己的生命力。
与内部象征外在形式的结合显然是体
现
在对战斗在头用在战国时期(公元前
475-221
)的战斗服穿始发野鸡羽毛。两个
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