-
故都的秋
郁达夫
秋天,无论在什么地方的秋天,总
是好的;可是啊,北国的秋,却特别地来得清,来得
静,来得悲凉。我的不远千里,要从
杭州赶上青岛,更要从青岛赶上北平来的理由,也不过
想饱尝一尝这
“
秋
”
,这故都的秋味。
江南,秋当然也是有的;但草木雕得慢,空气来得润,天的颜色显得淡,并且又时常多
雨而少风;
一个人夹在苏州上海杭州,或厦门香港广州的市民中间,浑浑沌沌地
过去,
只能
感到一点点清凉,秋的味,秋的色,秋的意境与姿态
,总看不饱,尝不透,赏玩不到十足。
秋并不是名花,
也并不是
美酒,
那一种半开,
半醉的状态,
在领
略秋的过程上,
是不合适的。
不逢北国之秋,
< br>已将近十余年了。在南方每年到了秋天,
总要想起陶然亭的芦花,
钓鱼
台的柳影,西山的虫唱,玉泉的夜月,潭柘寺的钟声。在北平即使不出门去
罢,就是在皇城
人海之中,租人家一椽破屋来住着,早晨起来,泡一碗浓茶、向院子一坐
,你也能看得到很
高很高的碧绿的天色,
听得到青天下驯鸽的飞
声。
从槐树叶底,
朝东细数着一丝一丝漏下来
< br>的日光,或在破壁腰中,静对着象喇叭似的牵牛花(朝荣)的蓝朵,自然而然地也能够感觉
到十分的秋意。说到了牵牛花,我以为以蓝色或白色者为佳,紫黑色次之,淡红色最下。最
好,还要在牵牛花底,教长着几根疏疏落落的尖细且长的秋草,使作陪衬。
北国的
槐树,
也是一种能使人联想起秋来的点缀。
象花而又不是花的那
一种落蕊,
早晨
起来,会铺得满地。脚踏上去,声音也没有,气
味也没有,只能感出一点点极微细极柔软的
触觉。扫街的在树影下一阵扫后,灰土上留下
来的一条条扫帚的丝纹,看起来既觉得细腻,
又觉得清闲,
潜意
识下并且还觉得有点儿落寞,
古人所说的梧桐一叶而天下知秋的遥想,
< br>大
约也就在这些深沈的地方。
秋蝉的衰弱的残声,
更是北国的特产;因为北平处处全长着树,屋子又低,所以无论在
什么地方,
都听得见它们的啼唱。
在南方是非要上郊外或山上去才听得到的
。
这秋蝉的嘶叫,
在北平可和蟋蟀耗子一样,简直象是家家户户
都养在家里的家虫。
还有秋雨哩,北方的秋雨,也似乎比南方的下得奇,下得有味
,下得更象样。
在灰沈沈的天底下,
忽而来一阵凉风
,便息列索落地下起雨来了。
一层雨过,
云渐渐地
卷向了西去,天又青了,
太阳又露出脸来了;
著着很
厚的青布单衣或夹袄曲都市闲人,
咬着
烟管,在雨后的斜桥影里
,上桥头树底下去一立,遇见熟人,便会用了缓慢悠闲的声调,微
叹着互答着的说:
p>
“
唉,天可真凉了
─—”
(这了字念得很高,拖得很长。
)
“
可不是么?一层秋雨一层凉了!
”
北方人
念阵字,总老象是层字,平平仄仄起来,这念错的歧韵,倒来得正好。
北方的
果树,到秋来,也是一种奇景。第一是枣子树;屋角,墙头,茅房边上,灶房门
口,它都
会一株株地长大起来。象橄榄又象鸽蛋似的这枣子颗儿,在小椭圆形的细叶中间,
显出淡
绿微黄的颜色的时候,正是秋的全盛时期;
等枣树叶落,枣子红完,
西北风就要起来
了,北方便是尘沙灰土的世界,只有这枣子、柿子、葡萄,成熟到八
九分的七八月之交,是
北国的清秋的佳日,是一年之中最好也没有的
Golden Days
。
有些批评家说,
< br>中国的文人学士,尤其是诗人,都带着很浓厚的颓废色彩,所以中国的
诗文里,颂
赞秋的文字特别的多。但外国的诗人,又何尝不然?我虽则外国诗文念得不多,
也不想开
出账来,
做一篇秋的诗歌散文钞,
但你若去一翻英德法意等诗人
的集子,
或各国的
诗文的
An-
thology
来,总能够看到许多关于秋的歌颂与悲啼。各著名的大诗人的长篇田园
诗或四季诗里,
也总以关于秋的部分。写得最出色而最有味。<
/p>
足见有感觉的动物,
有情趣的
人类,对于
秋,总是一样的能特别引起深沈,幽远,严厉,萧索的感触来的。不单是诗人,
就是被关
闭在牢狱里的囚犯,
到了秋天,
我想也一定会感到一种不能自己
的深情;
秋之于人,
何尝有国别,更何尝有人种阶级的区别呢?
不过在中国,
文字里有一个
“
秋士
p>
”
的成语,读本
里又有着很普遍的欧阳子的
《秋声》与苏东坡的《赤壁赋》等,就觉得中国的文人,与秋的
关系特别深了。可是这秋
的深味,尤其是中国的秋的深味,非要在北方,才感受得到底。
南国之
秋,
当然是也有它的特异的地方的,比如廿四桥的明月,钱塘江的秋潮,普陀山
的凉雾,荔枝湾的残荷等等,可是色彩不浓,回味不永。比起北国的秋来,正象是黄酒之与
白干,稀饭之与馍馍,鲈鱼之与大蟹,黄犬之与骆驼。
秋天,
这北国的秋天,若留得住的话,我愿把寿命的三分之二折去,换得一个三分之一
的零头。
一九三四年八月,在北平
作者简介:郁达夫
名文,字达夫,<
/p>
1896
年
12
月
7
日出生于富阳满洲弄(今达夫弄)
的一个知识分子家庭。幼年贫困的生活促使发愤读书,成绩斐然。
1913
年
9
月随长兄赴日
本留学,
毕业于东京帝国大学经济学部。
郁达夫是著名的新文学团体
p>
“
创造社
”
的发起
人之一,
他的第一本也是我国现代文学史上的第一本小说集《沉沦》
,被公认是震世骇俗的作品,他
的散文、旧体诗词、文艺评论和杂文政论也都自成一
家,不同凡响。
一、王椒升译文
Autumn in
the Old Capital
Autumn is
always pleasant no matter where it is. But autumn
in the North is especially
clear,
especially serene, especially pathetic in its
coolness. It was for no other purpose
than to savour this “autumn”
to the full, the taste of autumn in the
old capital, that I went to
the trouble
of journeying a thousand li, from Hangzhou to
Qingdao, and thence to Beiping.
There is autumn also south of the
Yangtze, of course. But there the grass and trees
take
more time to wither, the air is
moist and the sky is pale. There is frequent rain
and less
wind. One who dwells among the
citizens of Suzhou, Shanghai or Hangzhou, of
Xiamen,
Hong Kong or Guangzhou, spends
his days listlessly, with but a vague feeling of
coolness.
As to the taste and colour of
autumn, its particular significance and moods, it
is impossible
to
have
one?s
fill
of
seeing,
tasting
or
enjoying.
Autumn
is
not
a
famous
flower,
nor
a
delicious
wine.
It
is
inappropriate
while
enjoying
the
pleasures
of
autumn
to
expect
something in a state of half-open or
half-tipsy.
It is almost
ten-odd
years since I last had occasion
to
see
autumn in
the North. In
the
South,
the
return
of
each
autumn
would
bring
memories
of
the
Pavilion
of
Happiness
nestling among red
flowers, the Fishing Terrace canopied by the
shadows of willows, the
chirp of
insects in the Western Hills, the glamour of
moonlight over the Jade Springs, the
chime of bells in the Tanzhesi
T
emple. Here in Beiping, suppose you
are living amidst the
city?s
tee
ming millions in a ramshackle house
that you have rented. On rising one early
morning and seating yourself in the
courtyard with a cup of strong tea before you,
without
even
venturing
out
of
doors
you
can
see
an
azure
sky
high
above,
and
hear
homing
pigeons
whirring
past
under
it.
Facing
the
east,
you
count
the
rays
of
sunlight
filtering
through
the
leaves
of
scholar-trees.
From
a
gap
in
some
dilapidated
wall,
you
brood
silently over the blue trumpet-like
petals of morning-glories. And a sense of the
fullness of
autumn
will
come
upon
you
unawares.
Speaking
of
morning-glories,
the
blue
or
white
flowers seem to me
best, those
of dark-purple
next and
the
pink ones last.
And at the
bottom
of
the
morning-glories,
to
crown
all,
let
there
be
a
sprinkling
of
sparse,
sharp-pointed long
blades of autumn grass, to set off the flowers
with.
The scholar-trees in
North China are also an attraction that calls to
mind the advent of
autumn. You get up
in the early morning, to find the ground carpeted
all over with their
fallen petals,
which still have something of the look of flowers,
though actually not flowers
any longer.
Tread on them, and you are conscious only of a
very slight and soft sense of
touch,
with neither sound nor smell. The lines left on
the dusty soil by scavengers in their
round of sweeping under the shadows of
trees give an impression of exquisiteness as well
as
serenity,
so
that
subconsciously
you
still
feel
a
suggestion
of
loneliness.
It
was
probably something as
profound as this that inspired the phantasy of the
ancients that the
fall of a single leaf
from the parasol-tree intimates to all the world
the arrival of autumn.
The
chirping
of
cicadas
in
autumn,
feeble
and
lingering,
is
another
specialty
of
North
China.
In Beiping, everywhere are trees, and you can
catch their singing anywhere, the
houses being usually so low. In the
South this would be an impossibility unless you
went
out of your way to get to the
suburbs or the hills. In Beiping, the chirp of the
autumn cicada
is quite like the chirp
of a cricket or the squeak of a
mouse
—
domestic creatures to
be
found in every household.
Then there is the autumn
rain. Somehow rain in autumn falls in the North
more magically,
as it were, than it
does in the South
—
more
tastefully, more becomingly.
A sudden gust of cool wind across a
somber sky, and a patter of rain begins. When the
rain subsides, the sun reappears in a
blue sky, and the clouds drift slowly westward. At
the
end of the slanting bridge,
silhouetted against its shadows after the rain,
stand city idlers
under the trees, pipe
in mouth, in their thick unlined dress or lined
coat of black cloth. And
if they chance
upon an acquaintance, something like the following
dialogue might ensue,
in a leisurely
drawl punctuated by a low sigh.
“Yes, it?s getting cool really…”, with
the last word raised to a high pitch and
long
-drawn-out.
“Yes, isn?t it? ?A spatter of autumn
rain, a spell of cool? as the saying goes, you
know.”
In a
Northerner?s accents, the character for “spatter”
and “spell” often sounds not unli
ke
the character for “layer”. Judging by
the tonal patterns in classical Chinese prosody,
this
mispronunciation seems to come in
quite appropriately.
Another phenomenon in the North when a
autumn arrives is the fruit-trees. T
o
begin with,
there is the
date-tree, which flourishes anywhere in
the
corners of houses,
against the
walls, beside thatched
huts, outside kitchen doors. When the dates grow
to the size of
olives
or
pigeon?s eggs, a
light
green
or
yellow
set
amidst
small fine
oval leaves,
then
autumn will be in all its glory. But
the northwest wind will blow as soon as the trees
shed
their leaves and the dates have
turned red. Then the whole of the North will
become a
world of dust and sand and
grayish soil. So it is only when the dates,
persimmons and
grapes are ripe to about
80 or 90 percent, at the juncture of July and
August, that autumn
in the North is at
its very best
—
the Golden
Days of the year beyond compare.
In the opinion of some critics, men of
letters and scholars in China, especially poets,
have
a strong tinge of decadence. That
is why in Chinese poetry and prose writings in
praise of
autumn
particularly
abound.
But
then
is
this
not
the
case
also
with
the
poets
of
other
countries?
Little
as
I
have
read
of
foreign
poetry
and
prose,
and
not
inclined
either
to
make a
list of titles for an anthology of poetry and
prose about autumn, I feel sure that if
you but take the trouble to leaf
through the works of British, German, French and
Italian
poets, or the anthologies of
verse and prose of various countries, you are
bound to come
across
an
abundance
of
encomiums
and
lamentations
about
autumn.
And
in
the
long
pastoral
poems as well as poems about the seasons by all
celebrated poets, it is those
with
autumn as their theme that possess the greatest
excellence and appeal. This shows
that
in all sensitive animals, and in all emotional
human beings alike, autumn is capable
particularly of arousing feelings that
are deep and profound, serious and melancholy. Nor
is this the case with poets only. When
autumn comes, to my mind even prisoners in gaols
must be stirred by a poignant emotion
they cannot resist. In fact, with all human
beings,
what discrimination does autumn
ever make as to their nationality, their race
or class?
Here in China,
however, we have in
our literature the
term “autumn scholar”. And in our
school textbooks, essays like Ouyang
Xiu?s “Autumn Sounds” and Su Dongpo?s “A Visit to
the Red Cliff” frequently appear. This
cannot but lead us to the conclusion that men of
letters in China
are
particularly attached to autumn. But this profound
taste
of autumn,
especially this profound taste of
autumn in China, can be enjoyed fully nowhere else
than
in the North China.
Autumn
in
the
South,
needless
to
say,
has
charms
all
its
own.
For
example,
the
Twenty-four Bridges with
its brilliant moonlight, the Autumn Bore on the
Qiantang River,
the Putuo Isles
enshrouded in mist, the Lichee Bay strewn with
fading lotuses. Yet none of
these are
strong enough in colour, or remain long enough in
our recollection. Compared
with autumn
in the North, they are but as yellow wine to white
spirit, rice gruel to steamed
buns, the
perch to the crab, the dog to the camel.
I would that I could give
up two-thirds of my life for an autumn one-third
its length, should it
be possible to
make autumn stay
—
this autumn
in the North of China.
二、张培基译文。
Autumn
in Peiping
Autumn,
wherever
it
is,
always
has
something
to
recommend
itself.
In
North
China,
however, it is particularly limpid,
serene and melancholy. To enjoy its atmosphere to
the
full in the onetime capital, I
have, therefore, made light of travelling a long
distance from