纺织面料整理篇(Textile finishing)

纺织面料整理篇（

Textile finishing

）

Textile finishing

Textile fiber is divided into two kinds: natural fiber and

synthetic fiber

Natural fiber: cotton, wool, silk, hemp

Common fiber properties:

Wool:

moisture

absorption,

elasticity

and

wearability

are

good,

not resistant to moth eaten, acid and metal binding dyes.

Silk: moisture absorption, breathability, gloss and good

wearability, suitable for acid and direct dyes.

Cotton: breathable, moisture absorption, good performance,

insect resistance, suitable for direct, reductive, azo,

alkaline media, sulfide, reactive dyes.

Synthetic fiber: nylon, polyester, acrylic, polypropylene,

spandex, vinylon

Polyester:

fabric,

neat,

crisp, good

shape

preservation, wear

resistance,

dimensional

stability,

easy

to

wash,

quick

drying,

suitable for disperse dyes, diazo disperse dyes, soluble VAT

dyes.

Nylon: abrasion resistance is particularly good, poor

ventilation, suitable for acid dyes, disperse dyes.

Acrylic:

fluffy

and

have

a

sense

of

fur,

suitable

for

disperse

dyes, cationic dyes.

Identification: hand, visual, burning, microscopy,

dissolution, coloring and infrared spectrometry

A. first identified natural fibers and chemical fibers by

combustion.

B.

if

it

is

a

natural

fiber,

the

various

plant

and

animal

fibers

are

identified

by

microscopic

observation.

If

it

is

a

chemical

fiber, the difference of the melting point, specific gravity,

refractive index and solubility of the fiber will be

distinguished one by one.

In the identification of mixed and blended yarns, C. can be

observed by microscopy to identify several fibers, which are

then identified by appropriate methods.

D. for dyeing or finishing fibers, dyeing, peeling, or other

appropriate pretreatment is necessary to ensure reliable

identification results.

Combustion properties of common fibers:

A near flame in which the odor is removed after the flame is

removed from the flame

Cotton is nearly flame combustion continued burning the

afterglow burning ashes taste soft little black ash

The

hair

is

melting

away

from

the

melting

and

burning

flame

self

extinguishing afterflame to taste crisp fragile fluffy black

singeing

Wire

melting

away

from

the

flame

to

extinguish

sibil

afterflame

taste crisp fragile fluffy black singeing

Polyester near flame melting, dripping, foaming, continuous

burning, weak fragrance, hard round, black, light brown

Acrylic flame to burn and melt melt near the burning rate of

fuel splash weak fragrance hard round or irregular beads

What is Dacron?

Introduction: the raw material of polyester fiber is a

synthetic fiber which is extracted from petroleum and natural

gas and treated by special process. Called

manufacturing clothing fabrics and industrial products.

Polyester features 1, high strength. The strength of short

fiber is 2.6 ~ 5.7cN/dtex, and high tenacity fiber is 5.6 ~

8.0cN/dtex. Because of its low moisture absorption, its wet

strength is basically the same as dry strength. Impact

resistance is 4 times higher than nylon, 20 times higher than

viscose

fiber.

2.

Good

elasticity.

The

elasticity

close

to

wool,

when

stretched

5%

~

6%,

can

almost

completely

recover.

Wrinkle

resistance

over

other

fibers,

that

is,

fabric

does

not

wrinkle,

good

dimensional

stability.

The

modulus

of

elasticity

is

22

to

141cN/dtex,

2~3 times higher than nylon.

3, good heat resistance.

4, polyester surface is smooth, internal molecules arranged

closely,

the

lack

of

hydrophilic structure between molecules,

so

the

moisture

regain

is

very

small,

poor

moisture

absorption

performance.

5,

good

wear

resistance.

Wear

resistance

is

second

only

to

nylon,

which is the most wearable, better than other natural and

synthetic fibers.

6, good light resistance. Light resistance is second only to

acrylic fiber.

7, corrosion resistance. Resistance to bleaching agent,

oxidizing

agent,

hydrocarbons,

ketones,

petroleum

products

and

inorganic acid. Resistant to dilute alkali, not afraid of

mildew, but hot alkali can make it decomposition.

8, poor dyeing.

Polyester advantages

1, fabric high strength, wear resistance after wear;

2, bright colors and durable color;

3, smooth, crisp and elastic and should not be out of shape,

anti wrinkle anti shrink;

4, easy to wash, quick drying, no ironing;

5, acid, alkali resistance, not corrosion.

Polyester defects

1, poor ventilation, poor moisture absorption, wear more

sultry;

2,

dry

season

(winter)

easy

to

generate

static

electricity

and

easy to vacuum soil;

3, polyester fabric in the friction easily pilling, once

pilling is difficult to fall off.

4, wearing uncomfortable

Polyester washing and identification methods

1. can be washed with a variety of washing powder and soap

2., the washing temperature is below 45 degrees Celsius

3. machine washable, hand washable, dry cleaned

4. scrub with brush

5,

after

washing,

easy

to

dry,

not

exposure,

so

as

to

avoid

heat

up;

6, ironing should be padded with damp cloth, the temperature

can not be too high, dark clothing is best ironed the reverse

side.

Generic polyester polyester fiber, easy to ignite, near flame

melting, burning melts as well as black smoke, flame yellow,

fragrant smell, after burning ashes to dark brown lumps,

fingers can be crushed.

What is nylon?

Introduction: polyamide fiber, named polyamide fiber, is a

general term of polyamide fiber produced in china.

Nylon, also known as nylon, nylon, scientific name fiber, is

made

in

China

polyamide

fiber

collectively,

high

strength,

wear

resistance,

good

resilience.

Can

be

pure

spinning

and

blending

for

all

kinds

of

clothing

and

knitwear.

There

are

many

varieties

of

nylon,

including

nylon 6, nylon

66,

nylon

11

and

nylon 610,

among which nylon 66 and nylon 6 are the most important.

Nylon variety

Nylon fiber fabric can be divided into three categories: pure

spinning,

blending

and

interweaving,

and

each

of

them

contains

many varieties.

1.

nylon

pure

fabric

made

from

nylon

filament

as

raw

material,

such as nylon, taffeta, nylon crepe, etc.. By using nylon

filament fabric, so has the characteristics of smooth touch,

strong

and

durable,

affordable,

also

has

the

fabric

wrinkle

and

not easy to recover from the error. Nylon taffeta to do light

clothing, down jacket or raincoat cloth, nylon crepe and is

suitable for summer dress, and reversible jacket etc..

2.

nylon

blends

and blends

are

made

of

nylon

filament

or

short

fiber and blended or interwoven with other fibers, which has

the

characteristics

and

advantages

of

each

fiber.

If

the

stick

/ reach Jinhua, 85% and 15% with nylon viscose blended yarn

prepared by the density of weft density, has doubled in size,

it

was

thick,

tough

durable

characteristics,

the

disadvantage

is poor elasticity, easy to wrinkle, wet strength decreased,

wear easy to sag. Besides,

There are also sticky / Vari Martin, sticky / brocade / wool

flowers and so on, all of which are commonly used fabrics.

The most common nylon products on the market are nylon 6 and

nylon 66.

Nylon 6: full name fiber of caprolactam, polymerized from

caprolactam.

Nylon

66:

full

name

poly

two

acyl

fiber

formed

by

hexamethylene

diamine, adipic acid and hexanediamine polymerization.

The common characteristics of nylon 6 and nylon 66: poor

lightfastness, long time in the sunlight and UV irradiation

intensity decreased, the color yellow; the heat resistance is

not

good

enough,

under

150

degrees,

after

5

hours

of

yellowing,

strength

and

elongation

decreased

significantly,

the

shrinkage

rate

increase.

Nylon

6

and

66

filament

have

good

resistance

to

low

temperature.

When

they

are

below

70

degrees

Celsius,

their

resilience

is

not

changed

greatly.

Its

DC

conductivity

is

very

low, and it is easy to produce static electricity due to

friction during the process of processing. The conductivity

increases with the increase of moisture absorption rate, and

increases with the increase of humidity. The ability of nylon

6 and 66 filament has a strong role in microbial resistance,

the

resistance

of

microorganisms

in

the

sludge

water

or

alkali

after polyvinyl chloride. In chemical properties, nylon 6 and

66 filament have alkali resistance and reducing agent effect,

but they have poor performance in acid resistance and oxidant

resistance.

Advantages and disadvantages of nylon

The biggest advantage is strong, wear-resistant, is the best

kind. Small density, fabric light, good elasticity, fatigue

resistance, chemical stability is also very good, alkali

resistant, non acid!

The biggest drawback is that the sun is not good, the fabric

will become yellow for a long time, the strength decreased,

moisture absorption is not good, but better than acrylic,

polyester.

Nylon excellent washing method

1, the detergent requirements are not high, the water

temperature

should

not

exceed

40

degrees,

so

as

not

to

heat

too

hot and walk;

2, do not wash hard to avoid rubbing, hairball;

3,

light

colored

fabrics

should

be

washed

more

than

a

few

times,

otherwise the time is easy to yellowing;

4, avoid exposure and drying should be dried in the shade;

5,

nylon

heat

resistance

is

poor,

so

to

low

temperature

ironing,

must play steam, can't dry hot.

What is the vinylon

Introduction: vinylon polyvinyl acetal is the name of the

commodity, also called Vigny lun. Its properties close to

cotton, a

absorption of synthetic fiber varieties

Vinylon.

Vinylon is the best synthetic fiber, known as

of cotton, its hygroscopicity, strength than Kam, polyester,

good chemical stability, not resistant to acid and alkali.

Resistance

to

sunlight

and

weather

resistance

is

also

very

good,

but it is resistant to dry heat, but not wet (shrink)

flexibility is the worst, fabric wrinkle easily, poor dyeing,

color is not bright.

What is acrylic?

Introduction:

acrylic

fiber

usually

refers

to

more

than

85%

of