-囫囵
Lesson TwoCotton Properties and Uses
A relatively high level of moisture
absorption and good wicking properties help make
cotton one of
the more comfortable
fibers. Because of the hydroxyl groups in the
cellulose, cotton has a high attraction
for water. As water enters the fiber,
cotton swells and its cross section becomes more
rounded. The high
affinity
for
moisture
and
the
ability
to
swell
when
wet
allow
cotton
to
absorb
about
one-
fourth
of
its
weight in water. This means that in hot
weather perspiration from the body will be
absorbed in cotton
fabrics, transported
along the yarns to the outer surface of the cloth
and evaporated into the air. Thus,
the
body will be aided in maintaining its temperature.
相对较好的吸湿性和良好的芯吸性使棉纤维成为最舒适的
纤维之
一。因为纤维素的羟基基团，使得棉花对水有很强的吸引力。当水进入纤维棉，棉开始膨胀，其截面变得更圆。<
/p>
这种高度的亲水性和潮湿时溶胀的性能使棉花可吸水达到其重量的
1/4
左右。
这意味着，
在炎热的天气
里，
身体的汗液
会被棉织物吸收，沿着纱线输送到衣物外表面并
蒸发到空气中。因此，这对维持体温有帮助。
Unfortunately,
the
hydrophilic
nature
of
cotton
makes
it
susceptible
to
water-borne
stains.
Water-soluble
colorants
such
as
those
in
coffee
or
grape
juice
will
penetrate
the
fiber
along
with
the
water; when the water
evaporates, the colorant is trapped in the fiber.
Perhaps the major disadvantage to
cotton goods is their tendency to
wrinkle and the difficulty of removing wrinkles.
The rigidity of cotton
fiber reduces
the ability of yarns to resist wrinkling. When the
fibers are bent to a new configuration, the
hydrogen bonds which hold the cellulose
chains together are ruptured and the molecules
slide in order to
minimize the stress
within the fiber. The hydrogen bonds reform in the
new positions, so that when the
crushing force is removed the fibers
stay in the new positions. It is the rupture and
reformation of the
hydrogen bonds that
helps to maintain wrinkles, so that cotton goods
must be ironed.
遗憾的是，棉纤维的亲
水性使
得它容易受到水渍。如咖啡或葡萄汁的水溶性色素会随着水分渗入纤维；当水分蒸发后，着色剂会停留在纤维
上。也许棉产品主要的缺点就是其会起皱以及难以抗皱。棉纤维的刚性使得纱线抗皱性能降低
。当纤维弯曲成新的结
构时，将纤维素链连结起来的氢键断裂，同时分子滑移以减少纤维
中的应力。氢键在新的位置重键，因而挤压的外力
去除，纤维停留在新的位置。正是氢键
的断裂与重键使得织物保持褶皱，所以棉织物需要熨烫。
Cotton is a moderately strong fiber
with good abrasion resistance and good dimensional
stability. It is
resistant
to
the
acids,
alkalies,
and
organic
solvents
normally
available
to
consumers.
But
since
it
is
a
natural material, it is
subject to attack by insects, molds and fungus.
Most prominent is the tendency for
cotton to mildew if allowed to remain d
amp.
棉纤维是具有良好的耐磨性和尺寸稳定性，
强度适中的
纤维。
它耐酸，
耐碱以及有机溶剂，消费者普遍接纳。但由于它
是一种天然物质，它受昆虫，霉菌和真菌攻击。最突出的是棉一旦放
在持续潮湿的环境下
会发霉。
Cotton
resists sunlight and heat well, although direct
exposure to constant strong sunlight will cause
yellowing and eventual degradation of
the fiber. Yellowing may also occur when cotton
goods are dried in
gas dryers. The
color change is the result of a chemical reaction
between cellulose and oxygen or nitrogen
oxides in the hot air in the dryer.
Cottons will retain their whiteness longer when
line-dried or dried in
the electric dry
er.
棉纤维耐光，耐热，尽管直接暴晒在持续的强光下会引起发黄，并最终引起纤维的
降解。变黄也可
能出现在棉产品被气体干燥剂干燥时。颜色的变化是纤维素和氧或二氧化
氮在热空气中干燥的化学反应的结果。棉花
自然挂干或烘干机烘干会长时间保持其白度。
Of major
interest is the fact that cotton yarn is stronger
when wet than when dry. This property is a
consequence
of
the
macro-and
micro-structural
features
of
the
fiber.
As
water
is
absorbed,
the
fiber
swells
and
its
cross
section
becomes
more
rounded.
Usually
the
absorption
of
such
a
large
amount
of
foreign
material would cause a high degree of internal
stress and lead to weakening of the fiber. In
cotton,
however,
the
absorption
of
water
causes
a
decrease
in
the
internal
stresses.
Thus,
with
less
internal
stresses to
overcome, the swollen fiber becomes stronger. At
the same time, the swollen fibers within the
yarns press upon each other more
strongly. The internal friction strengthens the
yarns. In addition, the
absorbed water
acts as an internal lubricant which imparts a
higher level of flexibility to the fibers. This
accounts
for
the
fact
that
cotton
garments
are
more
easily
ironed
when
damp.
Cotton
fabrics
are
susceptible to shrinkage upon launderin
g.
值得关注的是，棉纱线在潮湿环境下比在干燥环境下强度更大。这种性
质是棉纤维宏观和微观结构特征的结果。当水被吸收，纤维膨胀，其截面变得更圆。通常这种大量的外
来物质的吸收
会导致内部应力较高，导致纤维弱化。然而，棉纤维吸水导致内部应力减少
。因此，减少克服内部应力，肿胀的纤维
变得强度更大。同时，纱线中的溶胀纤维之间的
互相挤压更强烈，内部的摩擦力增强了纱线强度。此外，所吸收的水
作为一种内部润滑剂
，赋予纤维较高水平的灵活性。这解释了棉衣物潮湿时更容易熨烫，棉织物洗水时易收缩。
Perhaps
more
than
any
other
fiber,
cotton
satisfies
the
requirements
of
apparel,
home
furnishings,
recreational,
and industrial uses. It provides fabrics that are
strong, lightweight, pliable, easily dried, and
readily
laundered.
In
apparel,
cotton
provides
garments
that
are
comfortable,
readily
dried
in
bright,
long-lasting colors, and easy to care
for. The major drawbacks are a propensity for
cotton yams to shrink
and
for
cotton
cloth
to
wrinkle.
Shrinkage
may
be
controlled
by
the
application
of
shrink-resistant
finishes.
Durable-press
properties
may
be
imparted
by
chemical
treatment
or
by
blending cotton
with
more wrinkle-resistant fibers, such as
polyester.
棉也许比其他任何纤维更能满足服装，家居家具，休闲和工业用<
/p>
途的要求。它提供了强度大，轻薄，柔软，快干，易清洗功能的织物。在衣物方面，棉带来
了舒适、在光下快干、色
彩持久、容易打理的服饰。它主要的缺点是棉纱线会缩水和棉布
会起皱。缩水可以应用防缩后整理来控制。耐用性能
可以通过化学处理或在棉纤维混纺中
使用抗皱纤维，如涤纶来实现。
In
home
furnishings,
cotton
serves
in
durable,
general-service
fabrics.
Although
they
may
lack
the
formal
appearance
of
materials
made
from
other
fibers,
cotton
goods
provide
a
comfortable,
homey
environment. Cotton fabrics have been
the mainstay of bed linens and towels for decades,
because they
are comfortable, durable,
and moisture-absorbent. Polyester/cotton blends
provide the modern consumer
with no-
iron sheets and pillowcases that retain a crisp,
fresh feel.
在家居用品中，
棉产品担当了实用而全
方位服
务的织物。虽然他们可能没有其他纤维材质的美观，但棉织品（为我们）提供了一
个舒适，温馨的环境。棉织物一直
是几十年来的床单和毛巾的主要材质，因为他们非常舒
适，耐用且具有吸湿性。涤
/
棉混纺织物为现代顾客提供了无须
熨烫的床单和枕套，保持织物清新。
For
recreational
use,
cotton
has
traditionally
been
used
for
tenting
and
camping
gear,
boat
sails,
tennis
shoes
and
sportswear.
Cotton
is
particularly
well-suited
for
tent.
A
tent
fabric
must
be
able
to
of
air
with
the
outside
atmosphere
reduces
the
humidity
within
the
tent
and
keeps
it
from
becoming
stuffy.
Fabrics
woven
from
cotton
can
be
open
enough
to
provide
good
air
permeability
for
comfort.
Tents should also
shed water, when wet by rain, cotton yarns swell,
reducing the interstices between the
yarns and resisting the penetration of
water. Today, however, heavy canvas gear is being
supplanted by
light-weight nylon in
tenting equipment.
娱乐用途上，
棉织物一
向应用于帐篷和野营装备、
船帆、
运动鞋和运动服。
棉织物特别适合制作帐篷。帐篷织物必须能够
“
呼
吸
”
，让居住者不会被自己的二氧化碳窒息。此外，与外界空气
的流
通减少了帐篷里面的湿度并使它不变得那么闷热。棉的机织物可以充分拉开，它具有
良好的透气性以供舒适。帐篷应
该能使水分流走，当被雨水打湿，棉纱膨胀，减少纱线之
间的间隙，提高防水性。然而，沉重的帆布齿轮将被轻质尼
龙帐篷装备取代。
Cotton cord, twine
and ropes are used in industry to bind, hold, and
lash all kinds of things, from
bales to
boats. Cotton yarns are used to reinforce belts on
drive motors and in work clothing.
棉线，麻
绳和绳索被应用在捆绑、拉伸、鞭打各种物品的行业中，成捆吊上船。棉纱线用作电动机和工作服的加强带。
Lesson FiveStructure and
Properties of Wool
Under the
microscopic observation, the length of the wool
fiber shows a scale structure. The size of
the scale varies from very small to
comparatively broad and large. As many as 700
scales are found in 1
cm of fine wool,
whereas coarse wool may have as few as 275 per cm.
Fine wool does not have as clear
and
distinct scales as coarse wool, but they can be
identified under high magnification.
显微观
察下，羊毛纤
维的长度显示出鳞片结构。鳞片的大小不同，
很小
到相当宽大都有。
1
厘米细羊毛里面可以找到
< br>700
个鳞片，
而粗毛每
厘米少
到
275
个。细羊毛没有粗羊毛那样清晰突出的鳞片，但他们可
以在高倍镜下辨识出来。
A
cross
section
of
wool
shows
three
distinct
parts
to
the
fiber.
The
outer
layer,
called
cuticle,
is
composed of the scales.
These scales are somewhat horny and irregular in
shape, and they overlap, with
the top
pointing towards the tip of the fiber; they are
similar to fish scales. The major portion of the
fiber
is the cortex (composed of
cortical cells ); this extends toward the center
from the cuticle layer. Cortical
cells
are
long
and
spindle-shaped
and
provide
fiber
strength
and
elasticity.
The
cortex
accounts
for
approximately
90
percent
of
the
fiber
mass.
In
the
center
of
the
fiber
is
the
medulla.
The
size
of
the
medulla varies and in
fine fibers may be invisible. This is the area
through which food reached the fiber
during growth, and it contains pigment
that gives color to fibers.
羊毛的横截面显示出了三个
不同部分的纤维。
外面那层，称为角质层，由鳞片形成。这些鳞片形状有点棱角，并不规
则又互相重叠，由毛根指向毛尖；它们类似鱼
鳞。纤维的主要部分是皮质（由皮层细胞构
成）；它延伸至角质层的中心。皮质细胞呈长梭形，赋予了纤维一定的强
度和弹性。皮质
大概占了纤维团的
90%
。在纤维的中心是中腔。中腔的尺寸不
一，细羊毛可能是看不见（中腔）的。
这是在纤维生长过程中养分到达了纤维部分，里面
包含了给纤维上色的染料。
Wool fibers vary in length from 3.8 to
about 38 cm. Most authorities have determined that
fine cools
are usually from 3.8 to 12.7
cm; medium wool from 6.4 to 15.2 cm; and long
(coarse) cools from 12.7 to 38
cm.
羊毛纤维长度在
3.8
到
38
厘米不等。多数专家已判定，细羊毛通常从
3.8
到
12.7
厘米；中毛从
6.4
到
15.2
厘米；
长（粗）毛从
12.7
到
38
厘米。
The
width
of
wool
also
varies
considerably.
Fine
fibers
such
as
Merino
have
an
average
width
of
about
15
to
17
microns;
whereas
medium
wool
averages
24
to
34
microns
and
coarse
wool
about
40
microns.
Some wool fibers are exceptionally stiff and
coarse; these are called Kemp and average about 70
microns
in
diamet
er.
羊毛的宽度也有很大的差别。细羊毛如美利奴，有约
15
至
17
微米的平均宽度；而中羊毛平均
为
24
至
34
微米和粗羊毛约
40
微米。有些羊毛纤
维非常僵硬和粗糙，这些就是所谓的死毛，平均直径约
70
微米
。
The wool fiber
cross section may be nearly circular, but most
wool fibers tend to be slightly elliptical
or oval in shape. Wool fibers have a
natural crimp, a built-in waviness. The crimp
increases the elasticity
and
elongation
properties
of
the
fiber
and
also
aids
in
yarn
manufacturing.
It
is
three-dimensional
in
character; in other
words, it not only moves above and below a central
axis but also moves to the right
and
left of the axis.
羊毛纤维横截面为近圆形，但大多数羊毛纤维往往
形状略呈椭圆形或卵形。羊毛纤维天然卷曲，
有内置的波纹。卷曲增加了纤维的弹性和延
伸性，也有助于纱线制造。它呈三维结构的；换句话说，它不仅围着纤维
轴上下缠绕而且
左右缠绕。
There is
some luster to wool fibers. Fine and medium wool
tends to have more luster than very coarse
fibers. Fibers with a high degree of
luster are silky in appearance.
羊毛纤维有光泽。
细中的羊毛往往比较粗的
羊毛纤维有光泽。光泽度高的纤维外观光滑。
< br>
The
color
of
the
natural
wool
fiber
depends
on
the
breed
of
sheep.
Most
wool,
after
scouring,
is
a
yellowish-white or ivory color. Some
fibers may be gray, black, tan or brown.
天然羊毛纤维的颜色取决于羊
的品种。冲刷后，大多数毛，是淡黄色偏白色或象牙色。
有些纤维可能是灰色的，黑色的，褐色或棕色。
The tenacity of wool
is 1.0
to 1.7 grams per
denier when dry; when
wet, it drops to 0.7 to
1.5 g/d.
Compared with many other fibers, wool
is weak, and this weakness restricts the kinds of
yarns and fabric
constructions that can
be used satisfactorily. However, if yarns and
fabrics of optimum weight and type
are
produced, the end-use product will give
commendable wear and retain shape and appearance.
Fiber
properties such as resiliency,
elongation, and elastic recovery compensate for
the low strength.
羊毛的强度是干燥时
1
至
1.7
克
/
旦；湿润时，它下降到
0.7
至
1.5
克
/
旦。与其
他许多纤维相比，羊毛较弱，这一弱点
限制了纱线和织物满足人们可用的结构种类。然而
，一旦最佳重量和类型的纱线和织物生产出来后，最终使用的产品
将会带来超赞的耐磨性
，保形性和外观。纤维的性能如回弹性、延伸性和弹性恢复率弥补了其低强度的不足。
Wool has excellent
elasticity and extensibility. At standard
conditions the fiber will extend
between
20 and
40 percent. It may extend more than 70 percent
when wet. Recovery is superior. After a 2 percent
elongation the fiber has an immediate
regain or recovery of 99 percent. Even at 10
percent extension, it
has a recovery of
well over 50 percent, which is higher than for any
other fiber except nylon.
羊毛
纤维具有优良的弹性和灵活性。
在标准条件下，
羊毛纤维能延伸
20%
至
40%
之间。
潮湿环境下，
它可以延伸到
7
0%
以上。恢复率超强。施加
2%
伸长
之后，纤维能够立即恢复，恢复率达到
99%
。甚至在
10%
的延伸后，它也有
50%
以
上的恢复率，除了尼龙，它比其他任何纤维都要高。
The resiliency of wool is
exceptionally good. It will readily spring back
into shape after crushing or
creasing.
However, through the application of heat, moisture
and pressure, durable creases or pleats can
be
put
into
wool
fabrics.
This
crease
or
press
retention
is
the
result
of
molecular
adjustment
and
the
formation
of
new
cross-linkages
in
the
polymer.
Besides
resistance
to
crushing
and
wrinkling,
the
excellent resilience of wool fiber
gives the fabric its loft, which produces open,
porous fabrics with good
covering
power, or thick, warm fabrics that are light in
weight. Wool is very flexible and pliable, so it
combines ease of handling and comfort
with good shape retention.
羊毛的回弹性非常好。它可以
在碾压折皱之
后恢复原形。然而，通过加热、加湿和施力，持久的折痕或皱纹会在羊毛织
物上形成。这种折痕的持久是分子的变动
和聚合物中新的交叉链的形成结果。除了抗压抗
皱，羊毛纤维优良的回弹性赋予织物活力，这样形成了通气多孔的织
物的良好的遮盖力，
厚而保暖的植物的重量轻。羊毛非常灵活柔软，所以它结合简易的操作性和良好的保形性于一身。
The standard moisture
regain of wool is 13.6 to 16.0 percent. Under
saturation conditions, wool will
absorb
more
than
29
percent
of
its
weight
in
moisture.
This
ability
to
absorb
is
responsible
for
the
comfort
of wool in humid, cold atmospheres. As part of the
moisture absorption function, wool produces
or liberates heat. However, as wet wool
begins to dry, the evaporation causes heat to be
absorbed by the
fiber, and
rate is reduced. The property of
moisture absorption and desorption peculiar to
wool and similar hair
fibers
is
called
hygroscopic
behavior.
Wool
accepts
colors
and
finishes
easily
because
of
its
moisture
absorption properti
es.
羊毛的标准回潮率为
13.6%
～
16%
。饱和条件下，羊毛能吸收其重量
29%
以上的水分。这种吸
收能力，使得羊毛在潮湿、冷气
的环境下生存。至于吸湿功能，羊毛产生并释放热量。然而，当湿羊毛开始干燥，蒸
发引
起的热气被羊毛纤维吸收，尽管当蒸发率降低时致冷因素减缓，但羊毛经历了制冷。羊毛和类似头发纤维的这种<
/p>
吸收湿气和脱浮的特有的性能称为吸湿行为。毛的染色和后整理也因其吸湿性能变得简单容
易操作。
Despite
the
absorption
properties
of
wool,
it
has
an
unusual
property
of
exhibiting
hydrophobic
characteristics. That is, it tends to
shed liquid easily and appears not to absorb
moisture. The cause is a
combination of
factors: interfacial surface tension, uniform
distribution of pores, and low bulk density.
These moisture properties help make
wool very desirable for use in a variety of
situations where moisture
can be a
problem to comfort.
尽管羊毛具有吸收性能，它也显示出疏水特性
的独特性能。那就是说，它往往容易流
动液体却不吸收水分。原因是多种因素的结合：界
面表面张力，孔隙分布均匀与低的容积密度。这些水分特性使羊毛
可以非常理想地使用在
各种情况下，水分成为了一个容易解决的问题。
Wool
fibers are not
dimensionally stable. The structure of the fiber
contributes to a shrinking and
felting
reaction during processing, use and care. This is
due, in part, to the scale structure of the fiber.
When subjected to heat, moisture, and
agitation, the scales tend to pull together and
move toward the
fiber
tip.
This
property
is
noticeable
in
yarns
and
fabrics
and
is
responsible
for
both
felting
and
relaxation shrinkage.
羊毛纤维没有稳
定的尺寸。纤维的结构有助于加工、使用、保养过程中的缩绒和毡缩反应。在
某种程度上
，这是因为纤维的鳞片结构。当受到加热，加湿和搅拌处理时，鳞片拉在一起指向毛尖。这是纱线和织物
的显著性质，决定了毡缩和缩绒回缩率。
Lesson FourteenStaple Fiber Spinning
(1)
Staple
fibers
arrive
at
the
yarn
processing
plant
in
large
bales.
To
make
yarns,
fibers
must
be
of
similar length and relatively uniform
so that the spun yarn can be of uniform quality.
To accomplish this,
fibers from a
variety of production lots, fields, or animals
must be blended together.
短纤维用大棉仓送至纺
纱加工厂。为了织造纱线，纤维必须长度接近、相对均匀，这样纺出来的纱线才能达到稳定的质量
。为了完成这一点，
不同生产批号、来自不同产地和动物身上的纤维必须先混合在一起。
Several bales
or cartons of fibers are placed in the opening,
cleaning, and blending area. Some fibers
from each bale or carton are fed into
the opener and blender. It is important to
separate or
fiber
mass
to
a
single
fiber
state,
or
as
close
to
that
as
possible.
The
opening
and
blending
machines
separate
the
fibers
and
blend
fibers
from
the
different
bales
or
cartons.
The
technique
used
differs
according to the
type of opening or blending machine used.
在开清棉车间，
不同棉包或棉箱的棉花被开松、
除杂、
混合。每个棉包或棉箱的棉花部分被喂入开棉机和混棉机。尤其重要的是要分散并
“
开松
”
棉（纤维）团至
单根纤维状
态，尽可能地接近这种状态。开棉机和混棉机将从不同棉包
< br>(
箱
)
取来的棉纤维开松并混合
。采用的工艺随开棉机、混棉
机类型的不同而有差异。
In
the
intermittent
system
the
fibers
are
separated
from
the
bales
and
fed
onto
a
spiked
apron
or
lattice that carries the fibers from
the feed area to the cleaning and opening area.
The opening operation
separates the
fibers into a loose, fluffy mass. These loose
fibers are fed into a hopper, where a measured
amount is laid on a conveyor belt and
delivered to the picking unit, where additional
blending occurs.
The picker further
opens, cleans, and blends fibers through a system
of rollers and forced air. The blend
of
fibers
is
blown
onto
a
collecting
cylinder
to
form
a
fiber
layer.
As
the
cylinder
rotates,
the
layer
of
fibers
is rolled off to form the picker lap. This is then
taken to the card unit.
在间歇性纺纱系统中，纤维由成
捆被拆分并喂入皮圈或输送帘，它们（皮圈或输送帘）会将纤维从喂穿机构传送至除杂、开松
机构。开松机器将纤维
分离成蓬松的纤维团，这些松散的纤维被喂入棉箱，以一定量放置
在传送带并送达至清棉装置，进一步进行混合。清
棉机进一步通过罗拉和高压气流系统进
行开松、除杂并混合。混合后的纤维被吹送至集棉锡林，形成了纤维层。当锡
林旋转时，
纤维层滚落下来形成棉卷，之后被送至梳棉机构。
During this operation most of the dirt
and impurities that
might be present
are
removed by either
gravity
or
centrifugal
force.
Cotton
fibers
receive
more
opening
and
blending
than
man-made
fibers,
since they have more impurities and
greater variation than do man-made fibers.
< br>在此工序
,
大部分尘土和杂质
通
过重力和离心力的作用被除去。棉纤维将比人造纤维经历更多开松和除杂程序，因为棉纤维与人造纤维相比，杂质
更多，不均匀度更大。
The continuous system for making ring-
spun yarns takes fibers directly from the bale and
processes
them automatically through to
at least the card sliver state. Further steps may
be connected to the card
so that the
card sliver moves on through additional processes
automatically. The various steps in making
ring-spun yarns are descried in the
following paragraphs.
在
生
产
环
锭
纱
线
时
,
如
果
采
用
连
续
加
工
系
统<
/p>
,
则
纤
维
从
棉
包
开
始
,
要
自
动
加
工
至
少
到
梳
棉
棉
条
（
生
条<
/p>
）
阶
段
。
下一步的加工可以与梳棉机联接
,
这样棉条会
自动
地进入下一工序。织造环锭纺纱线的不同步骤会在下一段加以描述。
Bales are placed into
some type of automatic fiber feed unit. Metal
fingers pull tufts of fiber from the
bale. These fibers are fed to the
opening, cleaning, and blending area; they are
then conveyed to a hopper
for direct
feed to the carding frame. Slivers from the card
go directly to the drawing frames and may
actually be fed continuously through to
the roving process.
棉包被放置在某种自动喂棉机上
,
金属抓棉刀片从棉
包中抓取棉块
< br>,
然后将棉块送至开清混棉区；之后棉纤维运送入棉箱传送给梳棉机。从梳棉机出
来的棉条可直接进入并
条机
,
实际上也
可直接喂入粗纱机。
Yarns
made
on
automatic
equipment
tend
to
be
more
uniform
and
may
be
stronger
than
discontinuous process yarn. Production
speed is considerably faster for continuous
processes, labor costs
are reduced, and
plants stay cleaner.
在自动装置上生产的纱线与用间歇性系统生
产的纱线相比
,
条干更均匀
,
强
度更高。连续化生产的速度较高
,
节省人力
,
工厂也比较清洁。
No matter which system
is used, the quality of the final yarn is
dependent largely on the selection of
fibers and on the thoroughness of the
opening, cleaning, blending, and picking operation
s.
不管采用怎样的
加工系统
,
纱线的最终质量主要取决于原料的选择和开棉、除杂、混棉的彻底性以及清棉加工。
In the intermittent
or discontinuous systems the picker lap is placed
at the rear of the card frame to
supply
fibers. In the automatic system the fibers are
held in a hopper and fed in a loose form directly
to
the card. Carding continues the
cleaning of the fibers; it removes fibers too
short for use in yarns. The
process
partially
aligns
the
fibers
so
that
their
longitudinal
axes
are
some
what
parallel.
Carding
is
accomplished by wire
cards or granular cards. Wire cards contain two
layers of card clothing consisting
of
wire flats (rectangular shapes) in which free wire
fine wire pins are anchored. The flats are
attached to
a steel cylinder and to an
endless belt that rotates over the top portion of
the cylinder. The two sets of
pins move
in the same direction, but at different speeds, to
tease the fibers into a filmy layer, so that a
thin web of fibers is formed on the
cylinder. This thin web is gathered into a soft
mass and pulled into a
ropelike strand
of fibers, called a sliver. The sliver is pulled
through a cone-shaped outlet and doffed or
delivered
to
cans
or
to
a
conveyer
belt.
Granular
cards
are
similar
to
wire
cards
except
that
the
card
clothing is made of a rough granular
surface somewhat similar to rough
sandpaper.
在间歇性系统中
,
清棉棉卷放置在梳棉机的机尾处
,
为梳棉机提供原料。
如果采用自动化的加工系统
,
纤维则通过喂棉箱以
松散纤维的形式直接喂入梳棉机。梳棉工序继续进行除杂
工作
,
除去不宜纺纱的短纤维。在此工序纤维大部分被理顺
,
这样纤维沿轴向呈一定程度的平行状态。梳棉工作是由钢丝梳棉机
或微粒梳棉机完成的。钢丝梳棉机由两层针布组成，
针布由组合盖板
(
长方形
)
组成
< br>,
在盖板上置有细细的梳针。有的盖板则固定在锡林上
;
有的被固定在一个环状的带子上
,
带子
沿锡林上方回转。
两组梳针的运动方向相同
,
< br>但速度不同
,
目的是将纤维梳理成薄薄的一层。
这样在锡林上就形成了
一个薄薄的纤维层。薄薄的纤维层汇聚成一个柔软
的棉束并被拉伸成条子
,
通常被称之为棉条
(
生条
)
。棉条从喇叭口输
出
,
被送到条筒内或传送带上。微粒梳棉机与
针布梳棉机相似
,
不同的是其
针布
表面是粗的微粒
,
与粗砂纸相似。
The
card
sliver
is
not
completely
uniform
in
diameter,
and
the
fibers
are
somewhat
random
in
arrangement.
Some
fabrics
are
made
of
yarns
that
have
received
only
this
carding
operation
prior
to
drawing
and
roving
formation.
However,
some
fabrics
require
yarns
of
finer
quality,
particularly
fine-quality
cotton
fabrics,
and
these
require
combed
yarns
rather
than
carded.
When
cotton
and
man-
made fibers are combined. It is common for the
cotton fibers to receive the combing step before
the
two types of fibers are combined.
For yarns that require the additional step, the
card sliver goes through
the breaker-
drawing step and then to the combing operation.
梳棉棉条的直径并不是完全均匀的。
其内部纤维是
随意排列的。有一些织物是由在并条、粗纱工序之前只进行梳棉的纱线制成的。但是如果织物需要高质量的纱 线
,
特别
是一些高级棉织物
,
就需要精梳纱而不是粗梳纱。当棉与人造纤维混纺时
,
通常二者混合这前
,
棉纤维要经
过精梳工序。
对于需要精梳的纱线
,
梳
棉棉条通过头道并条后
,
进入精梳工序进行加工。
Lesson FifteenStaple Fiber
Spinning (2)
For
high
quality
cotton
yarns
of
superior
evenness,
smoothness,
fineness,
and
strength,
fibers
are
combed as well as
carded. Card slivers are fed to the breaker-
drawing frame, where several card slivers
are combined. The break-drawing unit
pulls out the fibers into a thin layer, and
reforms a new sliver. The
drawing is
accomplished by controlling the speed of a series
of rollers. Each set of which operates faster
than the one behind it. The layer of
slivers is pulled through the rollers at
increasing speeds; as the layer
leaves
the unit, the fibers are pulled into a new sliver
and delivered to cans ready for the combing frame.
Forty-eight
slivers
from
the
breaker-
drawing
unit
are
combined
to
form
the
lap
for
the
comber.
The
slivers are fed through a lapper that
makes them to a thin layer of fibers that is wound
onto a roll. These
rolls, each weighing
about 13.6 kg, are taken to the combing frame.
The layer of fibers is fed into the
combing
area,
where
fine
metal
wires
clean
out
remaining
short
fibers
and
impurities
and
further
parallel the fiber
in the comber lap.
为了生产高度均匀、光滑、纤细并具有较高强度
的高质量棉纱
,
纤维既要经过粗
梳
(
梳棉
),
也要经
过精梳。梳棉棉条喂人头道并条机
,
在头道并条机上几根梳棉棉
条并合在一起。头道并条机将梳棉棉条
的纤维梳理平行顺直并拉伸成薄层
,
再重新形成棉条。牵伸
(
抽
长拉细
)
是通过控制一系列罗拉的转速变化来实现的。沿
棉层的前进方向
,
每一对罗拉的转速均高于前
一对罗拉的转速。这样棉层在高速时被罗拉拉出。在棉层被输出时
,
被拉伸
成一根新的棉条
,
送至精梳
机的条筒。
在头道并条机上出来的
48
根棉条并合在一起制成精梳机所需要的棉条。
送入成卷
机的棉条
被拉伸成薄层并卷绕在筒管上。这些每个重约
13
．
6
公斤的筒管放置在精梳机上。纤维层被输送至梳理区，
< br>梳理区的细梳针将残留的短纤维及杂质清除，并使精梳条子中的纤维进一步排列顺直。
During the combing
operation as much as 20 percent of the fibers may
be removed. This waste is sold
to
manufacturers
of
non
woven
products
and
to
others
who
have
use
for
short
fibers.
The
fibers
remaining form a thin
web or layer; this web of fibers is pulled
together, fed through a cone and under a
geared wheel that helps to hold the
fibers together, and delivered as a comb sliver.
在梳棉过程中，多达
20%
的纤维会被除掉
。这些被浪费的纤维被销售给无纺布的制造业其他需要使用短纤维的人。留下的纤维形成一个薄薄的
纤维网或叫纤维层。纤维层通过一个喇叭口及一个齿轮被拉伸，以便汇聚在一起
,
输出成为精梳棉条。
Finisher
drawing
末道并条
Slivers from either the carding unit or
the combing unit, depending on the ultimate yarn
desired, are
processed through the
finisher-drawing or drafting frame. This is the
process by which fibers of different
types
can
be
blended
together
to
form
blended
yarns.
Eight
slivers
are
draw
get
her
to
produce
the
drawn
sliver. If a 50/50 polyester/cotton blend is to be
made, there will be four slivers of polyester
fiber
and four of cotton; if a 65/35
blend is ordered, there will be five polyester
slivers and three cotton. As
with
breaker drawing, rollers moving at different speed
smooth and combine the slivers and pull them
into a thin layer and then into the
drawn sliver.
从梳棉机或精梳机下来的棉条
,<
/p>
根据对纱线的最终要求
,
进一步在
并条机上加工。在此工序
,
不同类型的原料进
行混合
,
以便生产混纺纱线。八根梳棉条并合在一起被牵伸成熟
条。如果
要生产
50/50
涤棉混纺纱
,
应该由四根涤纶条子与四根棉条并合。如果要生产
65/35
涤棉混纺纱
,
应该由五根涤纶条子
与三根棉条并合。正如头道并条一样
,
不同速度的罗拉将条子并合、理顺并牵伸成薄层
,
< br>然后并合成熟条。
The
finisher-drawing operation is usually repeated.
The second time, however, eight slivers from the
first fisher -drawing step are
subjected to the same operation. The drawn sliver
is about the same size as,
or perhaps
slightly smaller than, the card or comb slivers.
As yet no twist has been 'imparted into the
fiber assemblage, although the delivery
of the sliver to the cans tends to twist the
sliver slightly.
末道并条工
序经常重复。在
进行第二次并条时
,
第一个并条机生产的八根棉条被送到第二个
并条机上进行同样的梳理。生产的熟条
与粗梳条或精梳条直径相同或稍细。目前为止尚未
给汇聚在一起的条子加过捻
,
但在将条子导入条筒时有弱捻加入
。
Roving
粗纱工序
Slivers from the finisher drawing are
taken to the roving frame, where each sliver will
be attenuated
until it measures
approximately one-eighth of its original diameter.
The drawn sliver is fed between sets
of
rollers. Each set of rollers rotates faster than
the set behind it, the front rollers rotate about
ten times
faster
than
the
back
set
of
rollers.
This
pulls
the
fibers
out,
reduces
the
diameter
of
the
strand,
and
further parallels the fibers. A slight
amount of twist is imparted to give strength. The
new strand, called
roving, is laid onto
a bobbin. Roving is wound onto the bobbin package
at approximately 27 meters per
minute.
The full bobbins are doffed from the frame and
delivered to the spinning frame.
从末道并条出
来的熟条直接供给粗纱机。在粗纱机上
,
棉条被慢慢拉细至约为
原来直径的
1/8
。熟条从罗拉之间喂入
,
沿
条子的前进方向
,
罗拉的转速逐渐提高。前罗拉转动的速度比后罗拉快
10
倍。这样就对条子产生了牵伸作用
,
从而降低
其直径
,
并进一步使纤维平行排列。
条子上加上了弱捻以赋予强度
,
新形成的纱条称为粗纱
,
被卷绕到筒管上。
粗纱以每分
钟
27
米的速度卷装在筒管上。满卷的筒管从
机器上落筒并被送到细纱工序。
Spinning
细纱
The final process in ring spinning of
single yarn is the spinning operation. During
spinning the roving
is attenuated to
the desired diameter, called the final draft, and
the desired amount of twist is inserted.
The roving is fed down into the
spinning area, where it feeds between sets of
rollers. Just as in the roving
step,
the front set of set rotates faster than the back
set. In spinning, the front set rotates about 30
times
faster
than
the
back
set.
This
difference
in
speed
attenuates
the
yarn
and
makes
it
even,
smooth,
and
uniform.
The
attenuated
yam
is
fed
down,
guided
through
a
U-shaped
guide,
called
a
traveler,
which
moves around the take-up package or
bobbin on a ring, hence the name
of the
traveler and the turning of the spindle on which
the bobbin is held combine to introduce twist into
the
yam.
The
spindle
turns
at
about13000
revolutions
per
minute;
the
traveler
is
slightly
slower.
Approximately 11 meters of yarn is
wound onto the bobbin per minute. The size of yarn
and the amount
of twist, cited as turns
per meter, can be controlled. The yam
manufacturing steps discussed to this point
produce a single yarn.
利用环锭纺纱
工艺纺制单根纱线的最后一个工序是细纱。在细纱生产中
,
粗纱
被逐渐拉伸至需
要的直径
,
称为最后一
道拉伸，同时需要的捻度被加进。粗纱从细纱机的上方喂入
,
并
通过一对对的罗拉。与粗纱工序相
似
,
前罗拉的转速高于后罗拉的转速。
在细纱中，
前罗拉的转速比后
罗拉的转速快
30
倍左右。
这样速度的
差使纱条抽长
拉细，变均匀，变光滑。拉伸变细的纱线向下方输送
,
并受到一个被称为钢丝圈的
U
型导
纱件的控制。钢丝圈围绕卷装
或筒管在钢领上回转
,
环锭纺纱
的名字就是这样得来的。筒管上钢丝圈的
移动和锭子的转动联合给纱线加捻。锭子大
约每分钟转动
130
00
转；钢丝圈稍慢一点。每分钟大约有
11
< br>米纱线被卷绕到筒管上。图
1
显示了细纱的工序。纱线的
尺寸和加捻的数量，以每米纱线的捻回度表示，这可以被控制。细沙加工到这一步就形成
了单纱。
Lesson Twenty-
SevenWarping
If the fabric forming
system is weaving or warp knitting, some or all of
the yarns forming the fabric
are
presented in sheet form. It is necessary therefore
to remove the yarn from the winding package and
arrange the desired number on a package
called a beam. The yarns must be parallel and
under uniform
tension. This, then, is
the purpose of warping.
如果采用机织或经编工艺生产织物
,
部分纱线
(
指机织
)
或全部纱线
(
指经编
)
要以片纱方式供应。因此有必要将纱线从
卷装上退绕下来
,
再按所需的根数卷绕到筒
管也就是经轴上。纱线必须相互平行
,
且张力均匀
,
这就是整经的目的。
Before thinking about winding a
specified number of yarns on a beam, first
consider the problem of
positioning the
package from which the yarn is taken in such a
manner so as to facilitate the removal of
yarn. Also keep in mind that the number
of yarns per beam is in the hundreds or thousands
and that
there
must,
at
least,
be
one
supply
package
for
each
of
these
yarns.
It
is
logical,
therefore,
to
build
a
frame of
some sort to hold the supply packages in a manner
so as to facilitate warping. To accomplish
this purpose creels are equipped with
package holders on which the supply packages are
placed, tension
device to help maintain
uniform tension through out the creel, guides to
direct the yarn and to help keep
the
ends
apart,
antistatic
devices
to
eliminate
static
charges
by
the
rubbing
of
the
yarn
against
the
various surfaces, and
stop motions to detect broken ends and/or empty
packages.
在将特定数目的纱线卷绕到经轴上之前<
/p>
,
首先应考虑筒子的位置要便于纱线的退绕。
还应记住
,
每个经轴上的纱线可能是
几百根
,
也可能是几千根
,
每根纱线至少应有一个供纱筒子。
因此
,
设置一个某种形式的架子来摆放筒子以便于整经是有道
理的。为达此目
的
,
筒子架上设有筒子插座
,
筒子插在插座上，张力装置使所有的纱线保持均匀的张力；导纱器用来引导
纱线并使纱线分开；抗静电装置用来消除纱线与构件表面摩擦产生的静电荷；停车装置用来监测断纱和空筒。<
/p>
In
theory,
the
size
of
the
creel
(and
therefore
the
number
of
packages
it
may
hold)
is
unlimited.
In
practice, and not considering purchase
price, the creel size is limited by two factors.
The first of these is
floor space. A
creel must be housed in the building and therefore
it necessarily uses some of the facilities
of that building. Since the creel
produces nothing tangible to offset the cost of
housing and maintenance,
it is
important that it consume as little of these as po
ssible:
从理论上讲
,
筒子架的
大小
(
即它所能容纳的筒子的数
目
)
是没有限制的。在实际生产中
,
不考虑价格因素
,
筒子架的大小受到两方面的限
制。第一是占地面积
,
筒子架必须安装
在车间内
,
因此就必须使用该车间的设备。因为筒子架不会产生
任何实质性的东西来补偿安装和保养费用，所以尽量减
少成本是很重要的。
The second factor is
the yarn itself. In theoretical discussions, yarn
weight, especially for short lengths of
yarn, is neglected. In considering a
very large creel, it is obvious that some of the
supply packages must
be very much
further away from the point where the beam is
being formed than others. Also, the yarn
must be supported to keep it from
dragging on the floor and tangling. Each support
acts as a capstan
tension device. Thus,
it is important to keep the packages in a distance
range where the effect of yarn
weight
and the effect of supports as tensioners may be
neglected. Hence the size and, therefore, the
capacity of the creel is limited. In
general, maximum creel capacity ranges from about
300 packages for
very heavy yarns to
1400 packages for thin yarns. As will be seen
later, creel capacity is an important
factor in warping.
第二是纱线因素
,
纱线的重量
,
特别
是纱线输送距离较短时
,
是可以忽略不计的。
< br>如果筒子架很大
,
很明
显
,
有的筒子离经轴的距离比其它筒子要远得多。另外纱线必须被支撑<
/p>
,
使其不致垂向地面或相互纠缠。每一个支撑件都