-
印北庭西寺遗址简介
Ruins of Western Temple in Ancient City
of Beiting
“
北庭
p>
”
治所在今吉木萨尔县境内,地处天山山脉北麓东段,东邻奇台县,
西界阜康市,
并与内地、伊犁河流域、南疆及蒙古高原相通,是古丝绸之路北线的重要门
户。县境内自然
条件优越,文物资源丰富,现有国家级重点文物保护单位一处,自治州级
文物保护单位一处,
县级文物保护单位十三处,一般文物保护单位二十八处,馆藏文物五
百多件。因其重要的历
史地位及作用以及所留文物资源之优厚,故堪称北疆地区一文物大
县。
The jurisdiction under
ancient
Beiting
is within
the territorial range of Jimsar County, ranging
from east of the Tianshan Mountains,
neighboring Qitai County to the east, abutting on
Fukang City
in
the
west,
and
contiguous
with
inner
China,
Ili
River
Valley,
south
Xinjiang
and
Mongolian
Plateau, which was an important section
of the north ancient Silk Road. Endowed with
favorable
natural conditions and
abundant resources of cultural relics, there are a
historical and cultural relic
under
state
protection,
a
historical
and
cultural
site
under
prefecture-level
protection,
thirteen
historical and cultural sites under
county-level protection, twenty-eight sites
protected for historical
and cultural
value, and a collection of cultural artifact five
hundreds or more pieces in the County,
hence the name a county with a wealth
of cultural treasures in north Xinjiang.
北庭西寺是全国重点文物保护单位
北庭故城遗址(
1988
年
4
月由国务院批准公布)的附
属建筑。
1979<
/p>
年
6
月,中国社会科学院考古研究所新疆
队在北庭故城西约
1
公里处发现这座
高
昌回鹘时期的佛教寺院遗址。
1979
年
7
月至
1980
年
< br>7
月对该遗址进行了两次发掘,主要
发掘清理了遗址东侧
上、下两级洞龛及正殿南面的五座配殿,南部配殿建筑群中的庭院、平
台、库房、僧房和
小型配殿,找出了正殿及其西南及北外侧洞龛的轮廓,使该寺院遗址的基
本布局和结构得
以明确。
Western Temple in
Ancient City of Beiting is an auxiliary building
of ruins of Ancient City of
Beiting, a
historical and cultural site under state
protection, which was authorized and proclaimed in
April, 1988. Being a site of Buddhist
temple of Gaochang Uigur Kingdom, it was
discovered about
a
kilometer
in
the
west
of
Ancient
City
of
Beiting
by
Xinjiang
Exploitation
Brigade
of
Archaeological Institute of Chinese
Academy of Social Sciences in June, 1979. From
June, 1979 to
June, 1980,
archaeological excavation in the site were carried
out two times, including excavating
and
clearing two-layered niches east
of the
site, five side halls right
south of
main hall, building
group in the south
of side hall such as courtyard, platform,
storehouse, monk's dormitory, small side
hall, determining the outline of main
hall and outside niches southwest and north of
main hall, and
making sure the general
layout and structure of the temple.
p>
这是一座大型佛教寺院遗址,
其建筑范围呈长方形,
南北长约
70.5
米,
东西宽
约
43.8
米,
残高约
14.3
米。
佛寺地基为夯土台基,
< br>寺院的壁墙为土坯建筑,
整个建筑遗址保存比较完整,
为
研究高昌回鹘佛寺形制及回鹘式建筑提供了宝贵的实证。佛寺遗址中保存的大量塑像、壁
画、回鹘文、汉文题记等,极大地丰富了高昌回鹘文化的内涵,与新疆吐鲁番地区的柏孜克
里克石窟寺遥相呼应并弥补了该地区回鹘佛寺遗址建筑、塑像、壁画方面的缺憾,成为全面
研究高昌回鹘文化、建筑、风俗、与外界关系等方面不可或缺的佐证。
Building
layout
of
this
large-
scaled
Buddhist
temple
takes
on
a
rectangle,
with
north-south
length
about
70.5
meters,
east-west
width
about
43.8
meters,
and
remaining
height
about
14.3
meters. Based on rammed-earth platform
and surrounded by adobe walls, entire building has
been
preserved intact on the whole,
presenting a demonstrative proof for studying the
shape and structure
of Buddhist temple
in Gaochang Uigur Kingdom as well as Uigur style
architecture. A great amount
of
statues, mural painting, inscriptions in Uigur and
Chinese writing enrich to cultural meaning a
great extent. As a product in
corresponding period of Bezkrik Thousand-Buddha
Grottos in Turpan
south of the Tianshan
Mountains, this temple fills up a deficiency in
architecture, statues and mural
paintings in terms of Uigur-style
Buddhist temple in this area, affording
substantial corroborative
evidence
for
studying
culture,
architecture,
folk
custom
and
external
relations
in
the
period
of
Gaochang Uigur Kingdom.
史载,唐贞观十四年(公元
640<
/p>
年),在北庭故地设立
“
庭州府
”
,武则天长安二年(公
年
702
年)
改
“
< br>庭州府
”
为
“
< br>北庭大都护府
”
。
该时期在辖区
内大兴土木,
广建佛寺,
先后建有
“<
/p>
应
运太宁寺
”
、
“
高台寺
”
、
“
龙兴寺
”
、
“
西寺
”
等,
佛教一时兴盛。
According
to
records
of
historical
document,
in
640,
or
the
fourteenth
year
in
the
reign
of
Emperor
Zhenguan
of
the
Tang
Dynasty
(618
—
907),
Tingzhou
Prefecture
was
established
in
former site of Beiting,
and its name was changed to Beiting
Military Viceroy’s Office
in
702. It was
during
this
period
that
an
enormous
construction
projects
were
launched
within
the
prefecture,
Buddhist temples such as Yingyun
Taining Temple, Gaotai Temple, Longxing Temple and
Western
Temple were built up, which
marked the overwhelming prevalence of Buddhism
throughout.
唐文宗
开成五年(公元
840
年),回鹘部从自鄂尔浑河流域大举西迁
,其中一部定居于
北庭一带。回鹘原在漠北时,信奉摩尼教,于公元
866
年建立高昌回鹘政权后,皈依佛教,
北庭遂成为高昌
回鹘王国的陪都,即夏都。西寺壁画中,现存有
“
高昌亦都护<
/p>
”
、
“
长史
p>
”
、
“
公
主
”
之像,说明该寺当为高昌回鹘的王室寺院。
该座佛寺的规模及始建,是否是在唐代寺院基
础上的扩建,还有待于这座佛寺遗址全面发
掘清理后的出土实物资料来进一步证实。
In 840,
or the fifth year in the reign of Emperor Kaicheng
of the Tang Dynasty, Uigur tribes
moved
west from Orkhon River in large scale, of which a
number of tribes settled down in Beiting.
Originally, embracing Manicheism in the
North Desert, Uigur tribes converted to Buddhism
after
establishing Gaochang Uigur
Kingdom in 866, making Beiting as second capital
or summer capital
of Gaochang Uigur
Kingdom. Deducing from mural paintings in
existence in Western Temple such
as
Gaochang King, Governor and Princess, it can be
declared that this temple was a royal temple of
the Kingdom. As regards its scale and
initial building, whether it was a continuation of
monastery in
Tang Dynasty, it remains
to be certified by real objects to be unearthed
after an overall excavation
of the
ruins for the future.
据史载,<
/p>
1209
年高昌回鹘臣服于蒙古,
126
9
年,高昌回鹘的政治势力退出北庭,
1283
年,高昌回鹘王室东迁甘肃永昌,北庭遂成为元朝直接控制的领地。
1346<
/p>
年,秃黑鲁贴木儿
即位察合台汗,成为第一位信奉伊斯兰教的蒙古
汗,并强制推行伊斯兰教。
1383
年,秃黑鲁
贴木儿之子黑的儿火者即位,他在位期间对高昌、北庭地区推行
“
圣战
”
,捣毁佛寺,杀害僧
侣。西寺也因这次宗教信仰的更替而毁于这场大规模的
“
圣战<
/p>
”
之中。
According
to
an
ancient
record,
Gaochang
Uigur
Kingdom
was
subjected
to
the
rule
of
Mongolian
regime in 1209, and its royal family retreated
from Beiting since 1269 and moved east
to Yongchang, Gansu Province, from this
time forth, Beiting became the territory under the
direct
jurisdiction
of
the
Yuan
Dynasty
(1206
—
1368).
In
1346,
Telug
Timur
ascended
the
throne
of
Mongolian
Qagatay
Khanate
and
forced
his
people
converting
to
Islam,
making
him
the
first
Mongolian Khan believing in Islam.
In 1383, Hedier Huozhe, son of Telug
Timur, succeeded the
throne,
who
launched
a
Holy
War
in
the
areas
of
Gaochang
and
Beiting,
demolishing
Buddhist
temples
and
slaughtering
monks
and
priests
there.
It
was
in
this
extensive
Holy
War
that
the
Western Temple was
ruined in the course of conversion.
p>
至此我们明确了北庭自唐以来不但是东部天山北麓地区政治、经济、军事、文化中心,
同时也是佛教中心。明确了高昌回鹘文化系统不仅限于高昌地区,还包括北庭地区。西寺遗
p>
址是现今北疆地区所存唯一一处历经我国唐、宋、元时期的佛教文化艺术宝库,被自治区党<
/p>
委、政府确定为爱国主义教育基地。它为研究新疆的民族、宗教的发展演变过程提供了历史
实证,对维护国家统一,反对分裂,维护各民族的团结稳定与共同繁荣发展具有深远的历
史
意义和重大的现实意义。
Hence, it is explicit that Beiting
acted as not only the political, economic,
military and cultural
center in the
realm north of the Tianshan Mountain since Tang
Dynasty, but Buddhist center.
An
influence of Gaochang Uigur Kingdom
exerted on areas other than Gaochang south of the
Tianshan
Mountains
alone,
but
on
Beiting,
north
of
the
Tianshan
Mountains
as
well.
Ruins
of
Western
Temple, the only a Buddhist cultural
treasure house in the north of Xinjiang,
witnessing the rise and
decline
of
Tang
Dynasty,
Song
Dynasty
and
Yuan
Dynasty
in
succession,
which
has
been
authorized to be an educational base in
patriotism by Xinjiang Party Committee and
government.
Providing a substantial
proof in historical evolution of religion and
ethnic groups in Xinjiang, it has
a
profound significance for safeguarding the
territorial integrity, opposing splittism,
consolidating
the
frontier
’
s stability and the
unity of ethnic groups and promoting co-prosperity
in Xinjiang.
千佛寺历史简介
Concise
History of Thousand-Buddha Temple
中国新疆吉木萨尔县千佛洞庙宇位于县城西南五千米处之千佛山西台地,为天山以北至
今保存之古代石窟之一。窟址占地总面积
5600
余平方米,遗址控制面积
2347
亩,现为州级
重点文物保护单位。
Temple of
Thousand-Buddha Grotto in Jimsar County, Xinjiang,
one of well-preserved ancient
grottoes
to this day in the north Tianshan Mountains, is
situated in the west tableland five thousand
meters southwest of the county seat.
The grotto, a historical and cultural relic under
prefecture-level
protection, occupies
an area of 5600 m
2
or more,
and entire area of the ruins covers 2347 mu.
该窟以释迦牟尼涅磐像,三圣菩萨
、十八罗汉、万寿山、千佛像及佛教故事画为主,窟
前配以大雄宝殿、天王殿、地王殿于
一体,构成佛教文化之建筑群。
The grotto,
consisting of Buddha Hall, Hall of Protector of
Buddha dharma, Celestial Emperor
Hall
and Earth Emperor Hall, is an architectural
complex of Buddhist culture, in which conserve
such statues as Sakyamuni’s
Nirvana, Three-Saint Bodhisattva,
Eighteen Arhot, Thousand-Buddha
image
and sculpture of Longevity Mountains,
as well as painting stories of
expounding Buddhist
doctrine.
清末民初,
道教先后在佛寺之西续建
“
三清观
”
、
“
玉皇阁
”
、
“
定湘王庙
”
等建筑,
使寺观阁
庙融为一体,成为
佛、道二教综合共容的古文化艺术中心,名弛遐迩,誉载边陲。在《新疆
建置志》、《三
州辑略》、《新疆游记》、《孚远乡土志》等志书中,均称该处为名胜古迹。
In the last years of the Qing Dynasty
(1616
—
1911) and early years
of the Republic of China
(1912
—
1949), a
number of Taoist architectures such as Sanqing
Pavilion, Pavilion of Jade Emperor,
and
Temple of Dingxiang King were built out in the
west of Buddhist temple, making it a fusion of
ancient
Buddhist
and
Taoist
culture,
gathering
Buddhist
temples,
Taoist
temple
and
pavilions
in
perfect union. Known far and near, it
was a great sight in the western frontier of
China, which was
put
down
in
books:
Records
of
the
Establishment
of
Xinjiang
,
Brief
Compilation
of
Three
Prefectures
,
Travels in Xinjiang
, and
County Annals of Fuyuan
.
由于历史的发展、变迁,并边疆烽
火间有发生,曾使该处名胜屡遭劫难,致以四建四毁。
据千佛洞已毁寺志记载:该寺原建
于北庭回鹘王朝时代,即唐咸通七年(公元
866
年)间,
p>
继至蒙元时代元惠宗至正六年(公元
1346
年),北庭改称
“
别失八里
”
为察合台汗国据有时,
因其最后一任蒙古汗王秃黑鲁帖木尔改信伊斯兰
教后,并强制其民改信伊斯兰教,实施
“
圣
战
”
,该寺遂遭劫毁衰败。
In the vicissitudes of history, this
temple in frontier region had undergone disasters
of war one
after another, which had
been rebuilt and destroyed four times respectively
in total. According to
the
Temple’s
Annals
of
Thousand
-Buddha
Grotto,
the
temple
was
initially
built
in
the
times
of
Beiting Uyghur Dynasty,
namely, in 866, or the seventh year in the reign
of Emperor Xiantong of
the Tang Dynasty
(618
—
907), till in 1346, or
the sixth year in the reign of Emperor Zhizheng of
the
Yuan Dynasty
(1206
—
1368), it was damaged,
when Beiting, renamed as Bexibalik, was conquered
by Qagatay Khanate, the last successor
of Mongolian Khan, Telug Timur, who forced his
subject
converting to Islam and
launched a Holy War towards Buddhism, and thence
declining.
据《宋史
·
王延德使高昌记》记载:宋太宗太平兴国六年(公元
981
年)
农历四月,高昌
王阿斯兰汗避暑北庭,
邀延德至北庭,
憩高台寺,
次日遍游境内佛寺,
其中有寺曰
p>
“
应运太宁
”
之寺
,贞观十四年造(即公元
640
年)。文中所言高台寺,依据文
献资料,地面遗物、地下
埋藏物比定,即今之千佛洞。
According to Records of Emissary Wang
Yande to Gaochang in History of the Song Dynasty
(960
—
1279),
in
the
fourth
month
by
the
lunar
calendar
of
981,
or
the
sixth
year
in
the
reign
of
Emperor Taiping of the Song Dynasty,
Gaochang Khan Aslan who was going to spend a
holiday in
summer
palace
in
those
days
invited
Wang
Yande
to
Beiting,
who
was
arranged
for
in
Gaotai
Temple.
In
the
morrow,
they
traveled
to
all
Buddhist
temples
there,
among
which
a
temple
was
called Yingyun Taiping
Temple or temple conforming to peaceful and
tranquil times, initially built
in
640,
the
14th
year
in
the
reign
of
Emperor
Zhenguan
of
Tang
Dynasty
(618
—
907).
Gaotai
Temple
referred
in
records
is
identified
as
the
present
Thousand-Buddha
Grotto
according
to
documentation, surficial
remains, and objects buried underground.
据《三州辑略》载:清乾隆三十五年(公元
< br>1770
年),有一柴夫患目疾,一日入山,以
山下泉水
洗之即愈。乃上山瞥见土石坍裂处,粉垣半露,隐约有洞。急下山告村人,掘开洞
门,以
炬照之,洞形如半月,见一卧佛长丈六尺,金面跣足,誓削发为僧,住此山,募款修
建多
年,甚为壮丽。此为第二次修复之明证。
According
to
Brief Compilation of
Three Prefectures
, in
1770,
or
the
thirty-fifth
year in
the
reign of Emperor Qianlong of the Qing
Dynasty (1616
—
1911), a
woodsman who was afflicted with
eye
disease unexpectedly recovered his eyesight when
passing by a springlet at the foot of mountain
and watering his eyes with springlet
water. Climbing up the mountain, he caught a
glimpse of an
indistinct cave over a
half-concealed whitewashed wall, in which
landslides heaped up. Hurriedly
he
returned village and informed villagers what he
had seen. The cave door was finally opened after
their excavating. With torches kindling
the inner cave, in half-moon shaped cave, there
reposed a
great recumbent Buddha with
one 16
chi
long, (chi, a
Chinese traditional unit of length, equal to 1/3
meter),
powdered
gold-painted
face
and
barefoot.
Enlightened
by
his
experience,
the
woodsman
made
a solemn promise to shave his hair to become a
monk. Residing in the mountain, he raised
funds for a long time to rebuild a
splendorous temple. This record clearly proved
that the temple
was rebuilt once again.
清同治初年(公元
1862
—
1864
年),阿
古柏叛乱侵入新疆,全疆各地战火迭起,庄园被
毁,寺庙皆焚,千佛洞同遭毁劫。
During
1862
—
1864, or the early
years in the reign of Emperor Tongzhi of the Qing
Dynasty,
Yaqub
Beg’s
insurgent
troops
invaded
into
Xinjiang,
flames
of
war
spre
ad
over
every
corner
of
Xinjiang,
ruined
fields
and
gardens
and
burnt
temples
could
be
found
everywhere,
Thousand-Buddha Grottoes met with
catastrophe once again.
p>
清光绪元年至三年(公元
1875
—
1877
年),随左宗棠率部进疆的张姓湖南道士,遥闻著
名千佛洞古刹,特前来瞻拜,但见寺庙全被焚毁,乃与同来僧道立下宏愿,决心重建,经数
年苦心经营,劝募布施,随募随修,重建庙宇,再塑金身,并将寺观阁殿连成一片,构成千
佛山巍峨壮观,琉光闪烁的古建筑群。逢每年农历六月六,东自哈密、巴里坤、木垒、奇台,<
/p>
西至玛纳斯、伊犁、精河,南至焉耆,北至蒙古科布多,来自四面八方的蒙、汉民族善男信
女、高僧众侣纷纷前来敬香瞻拜,历年如是,从未中断。
In
1875
—
1877, or the first to
third year in the reign of Emperor Guangxu of the
Qing Dynasty,
a Taoist surnamed Zhang
from Hunan Province followed Zuo
Zongtang’s troop into Xinjiang. On
hearing Thousand-Buddha Grottoes and
old temples in Jimsar, he specially headed for to
pay a visit.
Having
seen
all
temples
burnt
down,
he
and
other
accompanying
monks
and
Taoists
had
great
aspirations to
rebuild them.
With several
years
of elaboration, Buddhist and Taoist
temples
were
built up with
almsgiving funds they collected, Buddha statue was
fashioned and covered with gold,
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