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北庭故城西寺千佛洞

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2021-03-03 09:22
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2021年3月3日发(作者:简单易懂)



印北庭西寺遗址简介



Ruins of Western Temple in Ancient City of Beiting




北庭



治所在今吉木萨尔县境内,地处天山山脉北麓东段,东邻奇台县, 西界阜康市,


并与内地、伊犁河流域、南疆及蒙古高原相通,是古丝绸之路北线的重要门 户。县境内自然


条件优越,文物资源丰富,现有国家级重点文物保护单位一处,自治州级 文物保护单位一处,


县级文物保护单位十三处,一般文物保护单位二十八处,馆藏文物五 百多件。因其重要的历


史地位及作用以及所留文物资源之优厚,故堪称北疆地区一文物大 县。



The jurisdiction under ancient


Beiting


is within the territorial range of Jimsar County, ranging


from east of the Tianshan Mountains, neighboring Qitai County to the east, abutting on Fukang City


in


the


west,


and


contiguous


with


inner


China,


Ili


River


Valley,


south


Xinjiang


and


Mongolian


Plateau, which was an important section of the north ancient Silk Road. Endowed with favorable


natural conditions and abundant resources of cultural relics, there are a historical and cultural relic


under


state


protection,


a


historical


and


cultural


site


under


prefecture-level


protection,


thirteen


historical and cultural sites under county-level protection, twenty-eight sites protected for historical


and cultural value, and a collection of cultural artifact five hundreds or more pieces in the County,


hence the name a county with a wealth of cultural treasures in north Xinjiang.




北庭西寺是全国重点文物保护单位 北庭故城遗址(


1988



4


月由国务院批准公布)的附


属建筑。


1979< /p>



6


月,中国社会科学院考古研究所新疆 队在北庭故城西约


1


公里处发现这座


高 昌回鹘时期的佛教寺院遗址。


1979



7


月至


1980


< br>7


月对该遗址进行了两次发掘,主要


发掘清理了遗址东侧 上、下两级洞龛及正殿南面的五座配殿,南部配殿建筑群中的庭院、平


台、库房、僧房和 小型配殿,找出了正殿及其西南及北外侧洞龛的轮廓,使该寺院遗址的基


本布局和结构得 以明确。



Western Temple in Ancient City of Beiting is an auxiliary building of ruins of Ancient City of


Beiting, a historical and cultural site under state protection, which was authorized and proclaimed in


April, 1988. Being a site of Buddhist temple of Gaochang Uigur Kingdom, it was discovered about


a


kilometer


in


the


west


of


Ancient


City


of


Beiting


by


Xinjiang


Exploitation


Brigade


of


Archaeological Institute of Chinese Academy of Social Sciences in June, 1979. From June, 1979 to


June, 1980, archaeological excavation in the site were carried out two times, including excavating


and clearing two-layered niches east


of the site, five side halls right


south of main hall, building


group in the south of side hall such as courtyard, platform, storehouse, monk's dormitory, small side


hall, determining the outline of main hall and outside niches southwest and north of main hall, and


making sure the general layout and structure of the temple.



这是一座大型佛教寺院遗址,


其建筑范围呈长方形,


南北长约


70.5


米,


东西宽 约


43.8


米,


残高约


14.3


米。


佛寺地基为夯土台基,

< br>寺院的壁墙为土坯建筑,


整个建筑遗址保存比较完整,


为 研究高昌回鹘佛寺形制及回鹘式建筑提供了宝贵的实证。佛寺遗址中保存的大量塑像、壁


画、回鹘文、汉文题记等,极大地丰富了高昌回鹘文化的内涵,与新疆吐鲁番地区的柏孜克


里克石窟寺遥相呼应并弥补了该地区回鹘佛寺遗址建筑、塑像、壁画方面的缺憾,成为全面

研究高昌回鹘文化、建筑、风俗、与外界关系等方面不可或缺的佐证。



Building


layout


of


this


large- scaled


Buddhist


temple


takes


on


a


rectangle,


with


north-south


length


about


70.5


meters,


east-west


width


about


43.8


meters,


and


remaining


height


about


14.3


meters. Based on rammed-earth platform and surrounded by adobe walls, entire building has been


preserved intact on the whole, presenting a demonstrative proof for studying the shape and structure


of Buddhist temple in Gaochang Uigur Kingdom as well as Uigur style architecture. A great amount


of statues, mural painting, inscriptions in Uigur and Chinese writing enrich to cultural meaning a


great extent. As a product in corresponding period of Bezkrik Thousand-Buddha Grottos in Turpan


south of the Tianshan Mountains, this temple fills up a deficiency in architecture, statues and mural


paintings in terms of Uigur-style Buddhist temple in this area, affording substantial corroborative


evidence


for


studying


culture,


architecture,


folk


custom


and


external


relations


in


the


period


of


Gaochang Uigur Kingdom.







史载,唐贞观十四年(公元


640< /p>


年),在北庭故地设立



庭州府



,武则天长安二年(公


702


年)



< br>庭州府




< br>北庭大都护府




该时期在辖区 内大兴土木,


广建佛寺,


先后建有


“< /p>



运太宁寺





高台寺





龙兴寺





西寺



等, 佛教一时兴盛。



According


to


records


of


historical


document,


in


640,


or


the


fourteenth


year


in


the


reign


of


Emperor


Zhenguan


of


the


Tang


Dynasty


(618



907),


Tingzhou


Prefecture


was


established


in


former site of Beiting, and its name was changed to Beiting


Military Viceroy’s Office


in 702. It was


during


this


period


that


an


enormous


construction


projects


were


launched


within


the


prefecture,


Buddhist temples such as Yingyun Taining Temple, Gaotai Temple, Longxing Temple and Western


Temple were built up, which marked the overwhelming prevalence of Buddhism throughout.




唐文宗 开成五年(公元


840


年),回鹘部从自鄂尔浑河流域大举西迁 ,其中一部定居于


北庭一带。回鹘原在漠北时,信奉摩尼教,于公元

866


年建立高昌回鹘政权后,皈依佛教,


北庭遂成为高昌 回鹘王国的陪都,即夏都。西寺壁画中,现存有



高昌亦都护< /p>





长史








之像,说明该寺当为高昌回鹘的王室寺院。 该座佛寺的规模及始建,是否是在唐代寺院基


础上的扩建,还有待于这座佛寺遗址全面发 掘清理后的出土实物资料来进一步证实。



In 840, or the fifth year in the reign of Emperor Kaicheng of the Tang Dynasty, Uigur tribes


moved west from Orkhon River in large scale, of which a number of tribes settled down in Beiting.


Originally, embracing Manicheism in the North Desert, Uigur tribes converted to Buddhism after


establishing Gaochang Uigur Kingdom in 866, making Beiting as second capital or summer capital


of Gaochang Uigur Kingdom. Deducing from mural paintings in existence in Western Temple such


as Gaochang King, Governor and Princess, it can be declared that this temple was a royal temple of


the Kingdom. As regards its scale and initial building, whether it was a continuation of monastery in


Tang Dynasty, it remains to be certified by real objects to be unearthed after an overall excavation


of the ruins for the future.



据史载,< /p>


1209


年高昌回鹘臣服于蒙古,


126 9


年,高昌回鹘的政治势力退出北庭,


1283


年,高昌回鹘王室东迁甘肃永昌,北庭遂成为元朝直接控制的领地。


1346< /p>


年,秃黑鲁贴木儿


即位察合台汗,成为第一位信奉伊斯兰教的蒙古 汗,并强制推行伊斯兰教。


1383


年,秃黑鲁


贴木儿之子黑的儿火者即位,他在位期间对高昌、北庭地区推行



圣战



,捣毁佛寺,杀害僧


侣。西寺也因这次宗教信仰的更替而毁于这场大规模的



圣战< /p>



之中。



According


to


an


ancient


record,


Gaochang


Uigur


Kingdom


was


subjected


to


the


rule


of


Mongolian regime in 1209, and its royal family retreated from Beiting since 1269 and moved east


to Yongchang, Gansu Province, from this time forth, Beiting became the territory under the direct


jurisdiction


of


the


Yuan


Dynasty


(1206



1368).


In


1346,


Telug


Timur


ascended


the


throne


of


Mongolian


Qagatay


Khanate


and


forced


his


people


converting


to


Islam,


making


him


the


first


Mongolian Khan believing in Islam.


In 1383, Hedier Huozhe, son of Telug Timur, succeeded the


throne,


who


launched


a


Holy


War


in


the


areas


of


Gaochang


and


Beiting,


demolishing


Buddhist


temples


and


slaughtering


monks


and


priests


there.


It


was


in


this


extensive


Holy


War


that


the


Western Temple was ruined in the course of conversion.



至此我们明确了北庭自唐以来不但是东部天山北麓地区政治、经济、军事、文化中心,


同时也是佛教中心。明确了高昌回鹘文化系统不仅限于高昌地区,还包括北庭地区。西寺遗


址是现今北疆地区所存唯一一处历经我国唐、宋、元时期的佛教文化艺术宝库,被自治区党< /p>


委、政府确定为爱国主义教育基地。它为研究新疆的民族、宗教的发展演变过程提供了历史


实证,对维护国家统一,反对分裂,维护各民族的团结稳定与共同繁荣发展具有深远的历 史


意义和重大的现实意义。



Hence, it is explicit that Beiting acted as not only the political, economic, military and cultural


center in the realm north of the Tianshan Mountain since Tang Dynasty, but Buddhist center.


An


influence of Gaochang Uigur Kingdom exerted on areas other than Gaochang south of the Tianshan


Mountains


alone,


but


on


Beiting,


north


of


the


Tianshan


Mountains


as


well.


Ruins


of


Western


Temple, the only a Buddhist cultural treasure house in the north of Xinjiang, witnessing the rise and




decline


of


Tang


Dynasty,


Song


Dynasty


and


Yuan


Dynasty


in


succession,


which


has


been


authorized to be an educational base in patriotism by Xinjiang Party Committee and government.


Providing a substantial proof in historical evolution of religion and ethnic groups in Xinjiang, it has


a profound significance for safeguarding the territorial integrity, opposing splittism, consolidating


the frontier



s stability and the unity of ethnic groups and promoting co-prosperity in Xinjiang.





千佛寺历史简介



Concise History of Thousand-Buddha Temple



中国新疆吉木萨尔县千佛洞庙宇位于县城西南五千米处之千佛山西台地,为天山以北至

< p>
今保存之古代石窟之一。窟址占地总面积


5600


余平方米,遗址控制面积


2347


亩,现为州级


重点文物保护单位。



Temple of Thousand-Buddha Grotto in Jimsar County, Xinjiang, one of well-preserved ancient


grottoes to this day in the north Tianshan Mountains, is situated in the west tableland five thousand


meters southwest of the county seat. The grotto, a historical and cultural relic under prefecture-level


protection, occupies an area of 5600 m


2


or more, and entire area of the ruins covers 2347 mu.




该窟以释迦牟尼涅磐像,三圣菩萨 、十八罗汉、万寿山、千佛像及佛教故事画为主,窟


前配以大雄宝殿、天王殿、地王殿于 一体,构成佛教文化之建筑群。



The grotto, consisting of Buddha Hall, Hall of Protector of Buddha dharma, Celestial Emperor


Hall and Earth Emperor Hall, is an architectural complex of Buddhist culture, in which conserve


such statues as Sakyamuni’s


Nirvana, Three-Saint Bodhisattva, Eighteen Arhot, Thousand-Buddha


image and sculpture of Longevity Mountains,


as well as painting stories of expounding Buddhist


doctrine.




清末民初,


道教先后在佛寺之西续建



三清观





玉皇阁





定湘王庙



等建筑,


使寺观阁


庙融为一体,成为 佛、道二教综合共容的古文化艺术中心,名弛遐迩,誉载边陲。在《新疆


建置志》、《三 州辑略》、《新疆游记》、《孚远乡土志》等志书中,均称该处为名胜古迹。



In the last years of the Qing Dynasty (1616



1911) and early years of the Republic of China


(1912



1949), a number of Taoist architectures such as Sanqing Pavilion, Pavilion of Jade Emperor,


and Temple of Dingxiang King were built out in the west of Buddhist temple, making it a fusion of


ancient


Buddhist


and


Taoist


culture,


gathering


Buddhist


temples,


Taoist


temple


and


pavilions


in


perfect union. Known far and near, it was a great sight in the western frontier of China, which was


put


down


in


books:


Records


of


the


Establishment


of


Xinjiang


,


Brief


Compilation


of


Three


Prefectures


,


Travels in Xinjiang


, and


County Annals of Fuyuan


.




由于历史的发展、变迁,并边疆烽 火间有发生,曾使该处名胜屡遭劫难,致以四建四毁。


据千佛洞已毁寺志记载:该寺原建 于北庭回鹘王朝时代,即唐咸通七年(公元


866


年)间,


继至蒙元时代元惠宗至正六年(公元


1346


年),北庭改称



别失八里



为察合台汗国据有时,


因其最后一任蒙古汗王秃黑鲁帖木尔改信伊斯兰 教后,并强制其民改信伊斯兰教,实施





,该寺遂遭劫毁衰败。



In the vicissitudes of history, this temple in frontier region had undergone disasters of war one


after another, which had been rebuilt and destroyed four times respectively in total. According to


the


Temple’s


Annals


of


Thousand


-Buddha


Grotto,


the


temple


was


initially


built


in


the


times


of


Beiting Uyghur Dynasty, namely, in 866, or the seventh year in the reign of Emperor Xiantong of


the Tang Dynasty (618



907), till in 1346, or the sixth year in the reign of Emperor Zhizheng of the


Yuan Dynasty (1206



1368), it was damaged, when Beiting, renamed as Bexibalik, was conquered


by Qagatay Khanate, the last successor of Mongolian Khan, Telug Timur, who forced his subject


converting to Islam and launched a Holy War towards Buddhism, and thence declining.






据《宋史


·


王延德使高昌记》记载:宋太宗太平兴国六年(公元


981


年) 农历四月,高昌


王阿斯兰汗避暑北庭,


邀延德至北庭,


憩高台寺,


次日遍游境内佛寺,


其中有寺曰



应运太宁



之寺 ,贞观十四年造(即公元


640


年)。文中所言高台寺,依据文 献资料,地面遗物、地下


埋藏物比定,即今之千佛洞。



According to Records of Emissary Wang Yande to Gaochang in History of the Song Dynasty


(960



1279),


in


the


fourth


month


by


the


lunar


calendar


of


981,


or


the


sixth


year


in


the


reign


of


Emperor Taiping of the Song Dynasty, Gaochang Khan Aslan who was going to spend a holiday in


summer


palace


in


those


days


invited


Wang


Yande


to


Beiting,


who


was


arranged


for


in


Gaotai


Temple.


In


the


morrow,


they


traveled


to


all


Buddhist


temples


there,


among


which


a


temple


was


called Yingyun Taiping Temple or temple conforming to peaceful and tranquil times, initially built


in


640,


the


14th


year


in


the


reign


of


Emperor


Zhenguan


of


Tang


Dynasty


(618



907).


Gaotai


Temple


referred


in


records


is


identified


as


the


present


Thousand-Buddha


Grotto


according


to


documentation, surficial remains, and objects buried underground.



据《三州辑略》载:清乾隆三十五年(公元

< br>1770


年),有一柴夫患目疾,一日入山,以


山下泉水 洗之即愈。乃上山瞥见土石坍裂处,粉垣半露,隐约有洞。急下山告村人,掘开洞


门,以 炬照之,洞形如半月,见一卧佛长丈六尺,金面跣足,誓削发为僧,住此山,募款修


建多 年,甚为壮丽。此为第二次修复之明证。



According to


Brief Compilation of


Three Prefectures


, in


1770,


or


the thirty-fifth


year in


the


reign of Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty (1616



1911), a woodsman who was afflicted with


eye disease unexpectedly recovered his eyesight when passing by a springlet at the foot of mountain


and watering his eyes with springlet water. Climbing up the mountain, he caught a glimpse of an


indistinct cave over a half-concealed whitewashed wall, in which landslides heaped up. Hurriedly


he returned village and informed villagers what he had seen. The cave door was finally opened after


their excavating. With torches kindling the inner cave, in half-moon shaped cave, there reposed a


great recumbent Buddha with one 16


chi


long, (chi, a Chinese traditional unit of length, equal to 1/3


meter),


powdered


gold-painted


face


and


barefoot.


Enlightened


by


his


experience,


the


woodsman


made a solemn promise to shave his hair to become a monk. Residing in the mountain, he raised


funds for a long time to rebuild a splendorous temple. This record clearly proved that the temple


was rebuilt once again.




清同治初年(公元


1862



1864


年),阿 古柏叛乱侵入新疆,全疆各地战火迭起,庄园被


毁,寺庙皆焚,千佛洞同遭毁劫。



During 1862



1864, or the early years in the reign of Emperor Tongzhi of the Qing Dynasty,


Yaqub


Beg’s


insurgent


troops


invaded


into


Xinjiang,


flames


of


war


spre


ad


over


every


corner


of


Xinjiang,


ruined


fields


and


gardens


and


burnt


temples


could


be


found


everywhere,


Thousand-Buddha Grottoes met with catastrophe once again.




清光绪元年至三年(公元


1875



1877


年),随左宗棠率部进疆的张姓湖南道士,遥闻著

< p>
名千佛洞古刹,特前来瞻拜,但见寺庙全被焚毁,乃与同来僧道立下宏愿,决心重建,经数


年苦心经营,劝募布施,随募随修,重建庙宇,再塑金身,并将寺观阁殿连成一片,构成千


佛山巍峨壮观,琉光闪烁的古建筑群。逢每年农历六月六,东自哈密、巴里坤、木垒、奇台,< /p>


西至玛纳斯、伊犁、精河,南至焉耆,北至蒙古科布多,来自四面八方的蒙、汉民族善男信


女、高僧众侣纷纷前来敬香瞻拜,历年如是,从未中断。




In 1875



1877, or the first to third year in the reign of Emperor Guangxu of the Qing Dynasty,


a Taoist surnamed Zhang


from Hunan Province followed Zuo Zongtang’s troop into Xinjiang. On


hearing Thousand-Buddha Grottoes and old temples in Jimsar, he specially headed for to pay a visit.


Having


seen


all


temples


burnt


down,


he


and


other


accompanying


monks


and


Taoists


had


great


aspirations to


rebuild them.


With several


years


of elaboration, Buddhist and Taoist temples


were


built up with almsgiving funds they collected, Buddha statue was fashioned and covered with gold,


-


-


-


-


-


-


-


-



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