常用外贸服装专业术语_英文释义(含图

A

Appliqué

:

Surface pattern made by cutting out fabric or lace designs and

attaching them to another fabric or lace by means of embroidery or

stitching.

Section of a garment through which an arm passes or into which a

sleeve is sewn.

Distance from High Point Shoulder or Low Point Shoulder measured

to imaginary line at base of armhole that is at a 90-degree angle

from CF or CB.

Armhole:

夹圈

，袖笼

Armhole Drop:

Armhole Point:

The point on a pattern where armhole and side seam intersect.

Armscye:

See definition for

Armhole.

B

Backstitch:

返针，回针

Backtack:

Stitches used to secure the threads at the beginning and/or ending of

a row of stitching.

Lining that is stitched securely to shell at hems.

See definition for

Backtack.

Bagged Lining:

Balance:

Garment appears symmetrical on the body. Hanging equal distances

from the body right to left, and front to back.

Balanced Plaid/Stripe

Placement:

Refers to the symmetrical appearance of the plaid on the body. The

stripe/plaid must start at the same point on both sides of the

garment.

Banana Stand:

Band Neckline, Circular:

See definition for

Half Moon Stand

.

For definition see

set-circular

.

Band Neckline, Flat:

For definition see

set-flat

Barrel Button:

Ba rtack

套结

:

See definition for

Toggle Button

.

A series of short stitches sewn

缝

close together and used to reinforce

areas of strain or stress. Can be zigzag[zi

ɡ

z?

ɡ

]

锯齿形的线条

or

straight stitching.

Basting Stitch:

Bellow:

Bellying:

Belt loop:

Temporarily holds together two layers of fabric.

A method of adding fullness to an area of a garment, usually a

pocket. Often stitched around edges to hold shape.

See

Cockling

Narrow strip of fabric or thread chain at the waistline to keep a belt in

position.

See definition for

Welt Pocket

.

Cutting diagonally across the grain of the fabric at a 45 degree angle

to the selvedge, resulting in a garment that clings and follows body

curves closely.

Besom Pocket:

Bias Cut:

Bind Off (Sweater):

Binding:

See definition for

Cast Off

.

A narrow strip of fabric used to cover seams or raw edges to give a

clean finished edge and is visible on both sides of the fabric. Can be

single-turned, double-turned or combination.

Blanket Stitch(502)

Blended Yarns:

Yarns composed of two or more different fibers mixed together and

then spun to form one yarn.

For Definition see

Hem

and

103

Blindstitch:

Blistering:

Block:

Blocking:

See definition for

Bubbling

.

See definition for

Sloper

.

The shaping of a sweater into its finished form. Steam and pressure

are applied to make the blocked shape hold.

Outer layer of fabric in a garment.

The numerical measurement of force required to separate the

interlining from the piece goods. The measurement of gram force is

recorded in Newton (N = 102gf) or Ounce (oz = 28.35gf).

Process of joining 2 fabrics into one by backing with adhesive or

foam.

Body Fabric:

Bond Strength:

Bonding:

Boning:

Firm flexible strip, like nylon, concealed in casing to hold shape or

prevent stretching.

Bootcut Silhouette:

Bound Buttonhole:

For definition see buttonhole

Bound Neckline, Circular:

For definition see

set-circular

.

Bound Neckline, Flat:

For definition see

set-flat

Bound Seam:

Method of finishing a seam by binding seam allowance.

Bow, Bowing:

A fabric flaw in which the crosswise yarns arc across the width of the

fabric.

Box Pleat:

Pleat

formed by folding material alternately in opposite directions.

Box Pleat Inverted Box Pleat

Braided Elastic:

Bubbling:

See definition for

Elastic Braided

The separation at different points between the interlining and the

piece goods.

Buckle:

A fastening device, in a variety of sizes and shapes, consisting of an

open rim having a single or center bar, with or without a prong.

Bust Dart:

See definition for

Dart

.

Busted Seam:

Button:

See definition for

Pressed Open Seam

.

Decorative or functional component used to hold two sides of a

garment together. Can be made out of many materials and can either

have holes punched in the center for stitching or a shank on the

back. Buttons are made to slip through a buttonhole or fabric loop.

See definition for

Button.

Button and Loop Cross-

Stitch Attached:

Button Parallel Stitch

Attached:

See definition for

Button.

Buttonhole:

Opening for a button to pass through and secure a garment opening.

Can be bound, stitched/worked, or made from a loop of thread, cord

or bias tubing.

See definition for

Placket.

Button Sleeve Placket:

Button Stabilizer:

A plain flat button usually made of clear plastic placed inside a

garment behind the top outside button. Can be used anywhere there

are buttons for closure.

C

Cap Snap:

See definition for

Snap.

Cargo Pocket:

A stylized

patch pocket

, often with

bellows

, with flap closure at the

top.

Fold of fabric stitched down to form an opening through which

elastic

or a cord is drawn.

Methods of removing open stitches from the needles must be finished

with a bind off (like rib neck trim) to prevent unraveling of the

finished edge. Can also be decorative stitches within a panel.

See definition of

Sweater Start

.

Topstitch

on each side of the seam, equal distance from the seam.

Can be produced by two single needles or 1 double needle.

Casing:

Cast Off (Sweater):

Cast On (Sweater):

Centered Over Seam

Stitch:

Chain Tack:

See definition for

Swing Tack

.

See definition for

Ruler Pocket

.

See definition for

Set Circular

See definition for

Tubular Knit

.

Chisel Pocket:

Circular Finish:

Circular Knit:

Clean Finish:

Indicates that

raw edges

of fabric are finished in a way that stops

fabric from fraying and hides raw edges.

See definition for

Die Cutting

.

Components that work together to hold 2 sides of a garment

together.

Cockling and Bellying mean the same thing. If elastic has a wavy

appearance along its length, this is called cockling or bellying. The

primary cause is when the individual ends of spandex (rubber) relax

or contract more than the majority in the same length of the elastic

causing waviness along the top edge.

Small decorative pocket usually found on bottom garments, usually

located inside side pocket. Can be a

patch pocket

or

on-seam pocket

construction.

Clicking:

Closure:

Cockling:

Coin Pocket:

Collar:

No Band Collar With Band Collar

Collar Stay:

Narrow strip of plastic or metal inserted in point of collar from the

underside or is sewn to interlining between layers of collar fabric

added to garment to ensure a crisp unwrinkled look.

Collarband:

Collarstand:

See definition for Collarstand

Separate shaped piece of fabric that is the full length of garment

neckline and is inserted between garment neckline and collar. Used to

help shape and fit collar to body and also can be used to close

neckline.

Color Fast:

A term used to

determine whether a color ‘bleeds’ during laundering.

This is normally measured by a grading system 1

–

5.

Zipper

is set along folded edges of seam line with zipper teeth not

visible. Some specific construction methods are center lapped or

kissing

, side lapped, and invisible.

Processes in order to construct a garment, consists of stitching

and/or fusing garment pieces together.

Concealed Zipper:

Construction:

Continuous Sleeve Placket:

See definition for

Placket.

Contoured Waistband:

See definition for

Waistband

.

Cording:

See definition for

Piping

.

Cordlock:

A locking device that is typically spring activated and may have 1 or

2 holes. Used to adjust

drawcords

, etc.

Core Thread:

Thread

formed by spinning a cotton, rayon, or polyester fiber around

a continuous filament bundle of fibers giving the thread the

advantages of a

spun

and

Filament

construction.

A crosswise or horizontal row of loops in knitted fabric.

Course:

Covered Button:

See definition for

Button

.

Crack-stitched:

Crescent Stand:

Crocking:

See definition for

Stitch-in- the-Ditch

.

See definition for

Half Moon Stand

.

The transfer of dye stuff from one fabric to another by friction. This

problem is usually worse with darker shades. Reds are often a

problem in this respect. This is a dyeing problem and can be dealt

with in the dye house.

The cutting of a pattern piece perpendicular to the selvedge of the

fabric

Cross Grain Cut:

Crotch:

Crotch Curve:

The bottom of a

rise

curve.

Crotch Depth:

The straight distance from crotch to top of waistband in pants, shorts,

etc.

Crotch Point:

The point on the

pattern

where the front or back

rise

intersects with

the

inseam

.

Curtain Waistband:

A method of finishing the waist of a garment that is a separate sewn

on

facing

that hangs below lower seam of waistband made of fabric

other than

shell

that is

interface

d/

interlined

or turned.

Sweater panels are knit to the body length of the largest size, the

shape of the neckline, shoulders and armholes are cut out, smaller

sizes are cut down.

Cut and Sew (Sweater):

Cut On Placket:

See definition for

Placket.

Cutting:

Formation of garment pieces from layers (plies) of fabric by means of

a

die

,

laser

or

knife

. Typically done on a long table.

D

Dart:

A sewn wedge or diamond shaped tuck/seam used to make a

garment conform to the curves of the body.

A separation in the bond between the fusible interlining and the piece

goods. This can be total separation (total delamination) or partial

separation (localized delaminiation).

Weight measurement of

yarns

. Low numbers represent the finer sizes

and the higher numbers represent the coarser/heavier sizes.

Also see definition for

Elastic Denier

Sharp metal outlines in the shape of

pattern

pieces used to cut

plies

of fabric in conjunction with either a click press or die cutting press.

Typically used for smaller pattern pieces.

Occurs when the piece goods and the interlining are not moving in

sync and will cause distortion in the surface appearance of the

garment part.

See definition for

Triangle Reinforce Stitch

.

See definition for

Centered Over Seam Stitch

.

Delamination:

Denier:

Die Cutting:

Differential Shrinkage:

Doghouse Stitch:

Double Needle Centered

Over Seam:

Double Turn Hem:

See definition for

Hem

.

Double Yoke/ Stylized

Yoke:

See definition for

Yoke.

Drape:

Drawcord:

Drawstring:

See definition for

Hang

.

See definition for

Drawstring

.

A narrow string, ribbon, cord, or tube of fabric inserted into a

casing

and pulled up or tied to create shape and/or hold the garment to the

body.

Dress Form:

D-Ring:

See definition for

Mannequin.

“D” shaped piece of hardware often used to create an adjustable

closure held together by a looped and stitched end of a belt.

E

Ease:

The method of sewing together 2 components of varying seam lengths evenly

distributing fullness so as not to cause gathers or puckers. See definitions for

Tight, Moderate and Generous.

The amount of room above body measurements needed in a garment to allow

adequate movement when worn.

See definition for

Slant Pocket

.

A narrow elastic band, often used as trimmings and bindings. Formed by

plating several strands of yards and bare elastomers. Braided elastic usually

becomes narrowed when elongated. Made on a circular braiding machine.

The size or thickness of the yarn. Also thickness of spandex (The lower the

number the weaker the spandex)

Natural Rubber Thread

Stretch

–

measure 5” relaxed and pull to maximum; measurement result given

in a %.

Ease Over Body:

Eighth Top Pocket:

Elastic Braided:

Elastic Denier:

Elastic Elastomers:

Elastic Elongation:

Elastic Ends of Rubber:

The number of strands of rubber used to manufacture a particular size or

quality of elastic.

Thickness of rubber (The lower the number the stronger the rubber)

Fabric construction for interlocking series of looper of one or more yarns.

Materials normally used are textured polyester yarns or textured nylon and

bare spandex or extruded rubber. Made on a flat bed crochet machine.

Power (resistance to stretch), strength or tension of the elastic. The force

required to pull the elastic to a specific stretch/length, determines the amount

of pressure the elastic is putting on the wearer’s body.

Elastic that has enough width wise stability so it does not bend, roll or crush

across its width when worn. Made with monofilament thread.

Ability of elastic to retain its original length immediately after stretching and

releasing. After stretching the elastic to its maximum capability. The elastic

must return to 90% to 92% of its original length.

See definition for

Waistband

Elastic Gauge:

Elastic Knitted:

Elastic Modulus:

Elastic Non Roll:

Elastic Recovery:

Elastic Waistband:

Elastic Woven:

Primarily made up of warp yarns, fill yarns and covered spandex or covered

extruded rubber. Generally thicker and denser due to the bulkiness of the

covered elastomers and stitch formations. Made on a shuttle loom.

An end of spandex which has been covered or twisted with yarn.

Fancy needlework or trimming using colored yarn, floss, cotton, silk or metallic

threads.

See definition for

French Seams

.

Elastomeric:

Embroidery:

Enclosed Seam:

Ends of Rubber:

The number of strands of rubber used to manufacture a particular size or

quality of elastic.

See definition for

Construction

.

Seams in which the seam allowances are visible on the outside of the garment.

Execution:

Exposed Seam:

Exposed Zipper:

Zipper is set along folded edges of seam line with zipper teeth visible.

Expression of Fit:

Designer’s vision of how the garment should fit on the human form.

The key

elements of fit that are related to the styling of the garment include, but are

not limited to, where the garment sits on the waist of the body and how tight

fitting a garment is. It is possible for a garment to achieve an excellent fit, but

still not have achieved the designer’s vision for fit.

See definition for

Waistband.

Extended Tab

Waistband:

Eyelet:

Small circular plastic or metal tube secured to fabric to form an opening. Can

also be formed by a round embroidered opening. Can be decorative or used

with cord.

F

Fabric:

Cloth made of textile yarns or fibers by weaving,

knitting, lace making, braiding, netting, or felting. Can

also be made by bonding or non-woven methods.

Fabric Hand Feel:

See definition for

Hand

.

Face:

Surface of fabric designated in the weaving/knitting

process to be used as the outside of a finished

garment.

Facing:

Piece of fabric used to finish a raw edge. Facings are

turned to the inside of a garment enclosing seams.

Faggoting:

Open-work

embroidery

done by drawing out horizontal

threads of fabric, then tying the vertical threads in

groups to produce open spaces, OR, decorative

stitching that holds together two closely spaced folded

edges of fabric with ornamental stitches.

Fashioning Marks

(Sweater):

Raised “twists” that results from transferring loops to

adjacent needles to decrease the width of the knitted

panel, usually occurs in a series at neckline and

armhole.

Felled Seam:

Process that conceals seam allowance between plies as

they are folded together and topstitched through all

layers.

Female Closure:

Fiber:

Basic

filament

or strand from which yarns are made.

Fibers are either short with natural materials or man-

made materials which are made in long continuous

filaments.

Filament:

A

fiber

of indefinite or extreme length as found in silk

or synthetic fibers.

Crosswise or horizontal yarn of a woven fabric that

runs at right angles to the warp yarns or selvage.

Fill:

Findings:

All the smaller items and trimmings that complete a

garment. Maybe decorative material that adorns the

garment.

A small knitted stitch usually 12 to 24 gauge.

Fine Gauge

(Sweater):

Finishing:

All the final stages of preparing a garment for point of

sale. Includes, but not limited to, washing, pressing,

thread clipping, inspection, ticketing, etc.

For Definition see

buttonhole

.

Fishtail

Buttonhole:

Fit:

How well a garment conforms to the 3-dimensional

human body.

Individual who represents the figure type of the

intended guest used to evaluate the fit of garments.

See definition for

Ease Over Body

.

Fit Model:

Fitting Ease:

Flap Pocket:

Flare Leg

Silhouette:

Flat Felled Seam:

Flat Finish:

Flat Knit:

Flat Knit Collar:

See definition for

Felled Seam.

See definition for

Set Flat

.

Fabric knitted flat and has selvages.

Floating Tack:

Fraying:

See definition for

Swing Tack

.

Fraying is the unraveling of yarn in either the fill or

warp

direction.

Lining not attached at garment hem.

Free Hanging

Lining:

French Dart:

See definition for

Dart

.

French Fly Facing:

A separate sewn on fabric tab or extension used to

cover zipper teeth. It extends from bottom of zipper to

waistband and buttons to inside of pants near waist.

French Seams:

Process where raw edges of a seam are enclosed

between garment plies as they are turned over and

stitched, forming a clean finish.

French Tack:

Frog:

See definition for

Swing Tack

.

Ornamental braided two piece garment closure forming

button and loop

Full Fashioned /

Knit to Shape

(Sweater):

Sweater panel is knit to shape by increasing and

decreasing the number of needles used during the

knitting action. No cutting is required to obtain the

desired panel shape.

Full Needle Rib

(Sweater):

Double bed construct commonly used at start or

placket; looks like 1X1 rib, but is more compact. Can

be either link/loop attached (see linking/Looping

Definition) or continuous knit attach.

Full Placket:

See definition for

Placket.

Fusible:

Fabric containing heat sensitive adhesive for

application using heat and pressure. Commonly seen

on interfacing or decorative trims.

G

Gathering:

Gauge Elastic:

Gauge (Sewing)

See definition for

Shirring

.

See definition for

Elastic Gauge

The distance between needles on a sewing

machine.

Gauge(Knits/Sweaters):

Denotes the number of needles per inch on a

knitting machine. The larger the number (gauge)

the finer the knit. Example 12 gg has 12 needles

per inch vs 3 gg with 3 needles per inch.

Gauntlet:

A type of sleeve

placket

.

Generous Ease:

Loosely fits to body with a large amount of ease.

Godet:

Triangle shaped inset of fabric that creates

fullness, or greater width. Typically used in skirts

and bell- bottom pants.

Skirt section that is wider at the hem than the

waist, providing fullness and shaping to waist

without using darts.

Individual patterns for each size within a size

range.

The process of proportionately increasing or

decreasing a core size pattern to create patterns

accordingly in relationship to body growth.

Warp or lengthwise direction of the fabric,

running parallel to the selvage.

See definition for

Greige Goods.

Pronounced

(gr

or gr

zh)

. An unfinished

fabric just off the loom or knitting machine.

1) The ability to see under layer of fabric or

lining through the garment shell fabric due to

color or fabric weight. 2)

A printing term

referring to either poor cover where the

background shade shows through the print.

Gore:

Graded Pattern:

Grading:

Grain:

Greige Fabric:

Greige Goods:

Grin Through:

Grommet:

Gusset:

See definition for

Eyelet

.

Shaped piece of fabric inserted into a garment

seam or slash opening to permit greater

movement. Commonly found on underarms,

crotch of pants, thermal underwear, and active

wear.

H

Half Moon

Patch:

See definition for

Sweat Patch

.

Separate shaped piece of fabric that is not the full length of

garment neckline and is inserted between garment

neckline and collar. Used to help shape and fit collar to

body.

Half Moon

Stand:

Half Placket:

See definition for

Placket.

Hand:

Handle:

The tactile characteristics that make up a fabric.

Refers to the texture/softness/feel of the elastic when

being handled.

A rough estimation for the elongation of a product. This

should be used only as a tool for comparison.

How fabric reacts on the human body after garment is

sewn.

Fastener used in conjunction with a shank button.

Commonly used on overall straps.

Hand Stretch:

Hang:

Hasp:

Hem:

A way to finish an opening.

Hiking:

A term used to describe the problem when a garment is

not balanced and an area of the bottom opening is rising

higher than the rest of the garment.

Hollywood

Waistband:

A method of finishing the waist by extending the body of

the garment to form the shaping of the waist. Usually clean

finished with facing on the inside.

See definition for

Crotch Curve

.

A closure using a set of shaped metal plates, one which is

curved to form a broad hook, the other a raised bar.

Hook:

Hook & Bar:

Hook & Eye:

A closure using a small metal hook on one side and either

an embroidered loop or a small metal loop on the other

side.

Hook & Eye

Tape:

A fastening tape that has metal hooks on one side and

either and embroidered or metal loop on the other side.

Hook & Loop

Tape:

A fastening tape that has very small nylon hooks that

mesh with loops on opposite tape. Commonly known as

Velcro?.

Horizontal

Slant Pocket:

See definition for

Slant Pocket

I

Inseam:

The seam on garments located between legs and runs

from the crotch to the hem.

Supporting fabric either sewn or fused to the body

fabric for body, stability and shape. Commonly used in

waistbands, plackets, collars, cuffs, and as

reinforcement behind buttons and buttonholes.

See definition for

Interfacing.

Interfacing:

Interlining:

Inverted Box Pleat:

See definition for Box Pleat

Invisible Zipper:

Specially designed zipper, no lines of stitching is

visible on the outside of the garment. Finished

appearance is of a plain seam with only part of the tab

visible on the outside of the garment.

See definition for

Scoop Pocket

.

See definition for Armhole.

K

Kangaroo Pocket:

Usually a center front pocket that has the pocket bag

attached to exterior of garment with two openings.

Pocket can be one piece or split into two pieces by

center front closure.

Keyhole Buttonhole:

For Definition see

Buttonhole

Kick Pleat:

Clean finished opening at the sweep of a garment

created by one side of garment overlapping the other

to allow for movement.

Kimono Sleeve:

Kissing Zipper:

Zipper is centered under two folded edges that meet

at the center of the zipper teeth with two visible rows

of parallel stitching. A specific type of concealed

zipper.

Knife Cutting:

Cutting plies of fabric by means of a straight edge,

band or rotary knife.

For Definition see

Pleat.

Knife Pleat:

Knit Fabric:

Fabric constructed by interlocking a series of loops by

hand or machine.

Panels are knit to the exact shape required to

construct the sweater. Cutting is allowed at the

neckline if needed.

See definition for

Elastic Knitted

Knit to Shape

(Sweater):

Knitted Elastic:

L

Lacing:

Ribbon, cord, braid, or tubing in which two free ends

are pulled alternately through opposing eyelets,

grommets, buttonholes, or under hooks.

Lapel:

Shaped piece of fabric on center front opening above

top closure which folds back to form a larger opening.

The widest distance on the lapel, usually forming a

point.

Lapel Point:

Lapped Seam:

Process of attaching two or more plies of fabric simply

by layering atop each other and stitching through all

layers.

Lapped V-Neck:

See definition for

Miter

.

Lapped Zipper:

See definition for

Zipper

.

Laser Cutting:

Fabric is placed on a vacuum table using suction and

plastic over the top layer to stabilize plies before

cutting with laser.

See definition for

Marker

.

Layout: