-
1. New York is a city of things unnoticed.
It is a city with cats sleeping
under
parked
cars,
two
stone
armadillos
crawling
up
St.
Patrick’s
Cathedral,
and
thousands
of
ants
creeping
on
top
of
the
Empire
State
Building.
The
ants
probably
were
carried
there
by
winds
or
birds,
but
nobody is sure; nobody in New York
knows any more about the ants than
they
do
about
the
panhandler
who
takes
taxis
to
the
Bowery;
or
the
dapper
man
who
picks
trash
out
of
Sixth
Avenue
trash
cans;
or
the
medium in the West Seventies
who claims, ‘I’m clairvoyant,
clairaudient
and
clairsensuous.’
aaaaa
纽约拥有众多不
为人注意的事物。在这个城市有猫睡在停泊的车下，
两只犰狳攀上圣帕特里克教堂，还有
成千的蚂蚁爬上帝国大厦的楼
顶。那些蚂蚁或许是被风或者鸟带上去的，可谁也说不准。
在纽约没
有人了解蚂蚁，就像他们不知道那个乞丐去保利
区乞讨时乘的是出
租车；
还有那个衣冠楚楚
的家伙专门在第
6
大街从垃圾筒里捡垃圾；
还有西
70
街的那位灵媒宣称：
“我无所不
见、
无所不闻、
无所不觉。
”
2.
New
York
is
a
city
for
eccentrics
and
a
center
for
odd
bits
of
information.
New
Yorkers
blink
twenty-eight
times
a
minute,
but
forty
when
tense.
Most
popcorn
chewers
at
Yankee
Stadium
stop
chewing
momentarily just
before the pitch. Gumchewers on Macy's escalators
stop
chewing momentarily just before
they, get off
——
to
concentrate on the
last step. Coins,
paper clips, ball-point pens, and little girls'
pocketbooks
are found by work-men when
they clean the sea lions' pool at the Bronx
Zoo.
纽约是一个古怪者的天堂，是奇事异闻的中心。纽约人每分钟眨
28
次眼睛，但在感到紧张时则眨
40
次。在扬基体育馆，
嚼爆米花的
观众们在投球前大多会暂时停止咀嚼。在美茜百货店的自动扶
梯上，
吃口香糖的人们也会在下最后一级时暂时停止
咀嚼。布朗克斯动物
园的工人们在清理海狮池则捞出硬币、
回形针、
圆珠笔和小姑娘的小
皮夹。
3.
A
Park
Avenue
doorman
has
parts
of
three
bullets
in
his
head
——
there since
World War I. Several young gypsy daughters,
influenced by
television and literacy,
are running away from home because they don't
want
to
grow
up
and
become
fortune-tellers.
Each
month
a
hundred
pounds of hair are delivered to Louis
Feder on 545 Fifth Avenue, where
blond
hairpieces
are
made
from
German
women's
hair;
brunette
hairpieces
from
Italian
women's
hair;
but
no
hairpieces
from
American
women's hair which, says Mr. Feder, is
weak from too frequent rinses and
permanents.
帕克街一位门房的脑袋里有
3
颗子弹的碎片——它们从第一次世界
大战起就留在那里了。还有几个
年轻的吉普赛人的女儿
受了电视和
文
化的影响，她们生怕长大，生怕会变成算命的，于是离家出走。每
个月，
有
100
磅头发运到第五大街
545
号的路
易斯·
费达的店里。
在那儿，
德国女人的头发用来做金色假发，
意大利女人的头发用来做
棕色假发。
但是，
从来不用美国女人的头发做假发，
因为费达先生说，
美国女人洗头太勤，烫发太多，因此发质太弱。
4.
Some
of
New
York's
best
informed
men
are
elevator
operators,
who
rarely talk, but always
Listen
——
like doormen.
Sardi's doormen listen
to the comments
made by Broadway's first-nighters walking by after
the
last act. They listen closely. They
listen carefully. Within ten minutes they
can tell you which shows will flop and
which will be hits.
在纽约，消息最灵通的要算电梯操作工了。
和门房一样，他们说话不
多，但时常注意听。每当百老汇某场戏剧的首演结束，莎尔蒂剧
院的
门房就会聆听散场观众路过时的对话。
他们听得很关注，<
/p>
听得很仔细。
十分钟内他们就能告诉你哪出戏会失败，
哪出戏将走红。
5.
On Broadway each evening a big, dark, 1948 Rolls-
Royce pulls into
Forty-sixth
Street
——
and out
hop
two
little
ladies
armed
with
Bibles
and
signs reading,
stand
on
the
corner
screaming
at
the
multitudes
of
Broadway
sinners,
sometimes until three a.m., when their
chauffeur in the Rolls picks them
up
and drives them back to Westchester.
在百老汇，
每天傍晚都会有一辆黑色的
1948
年的大劳斯劳埃斯轿
车开进第
56
街——从车里跳出来两位小个子女士，
手持《圣经》
和标语，标语上写着：
“遭神咒的必亡。
”两位女士接着站在街角，朝
着百老汇的芸芸罪人们叫喊，
有时直到凌晨
3
点。
这时司机会开着
那辆劳斯劳埃斯来接她们，将她们送回威斯切斯特。
6.
By
this
time
Fifth
Avenue
is
deserted
by
all
but
a
few
strolling
insomniacs,
some
cruising
cabdrivers,
and
a
group
of
sophisticated
females
who
stand
in
store
windows
all
night
and
day
wearing
cold,
perfect smiles. Like sentries they line
Fifth Avenue
—
—
these window
mannequins who
gaze onto the quiet street with tilted heads and
pointed
toes and long rubber fingers
reaching for cigarettes that aren't there.
此时，第
5
大街已是了无人迹．只有几个失眠的人在闲逛，和几辆
出租车在游弋。
还有一些神情肃然的女性，
整天整夜肃立在商店橱窗
内
，脸上挂着冷漠、完美的笑容。她们像哨兵似的，沿着第
5
大街
排列着——这些橱窗模特儿，凝视着静谧的街头，搔首弄姿
。她们有
着修长的脚趾，
长长的橡皮手指向前伸着，
仿佛想接那根本不存在的
香烟。
7.
At
five
a.m.,
Manhattan
is
a
town
of
tired
trumpet
players
and
homeward-bound
bartenders.
Pigeons
control
Park
Avenue
and
strut
unchallenged in the
middle of the street. This is Manhattan's
mellowest
hour. Most night people are
out of sight
——
but the day
people have not
yet appeared. Truck
drivers and cabs are alert, yet they do not
disturb the
mood.
They
do
not
disturb
the
abandoned
Rockefeller
Center,
or
the
motionless
night watchmen in the Fulton Fish Market, or the
gas-station
attendant sleeping next to
Sloppy Louie's with the radio on.
早上
5
点
，曼哈顿属于那些疲惫的小号吹奏手和回家的酒吧侍应。
鸽子占据了帕克大街。它们走在
马路的中央，如入无人之境。这是曼
哈顿最美好的时刻。
过夜生
活的人大多已经销声匿迹——而白天工作
的人则尚未出门。
卡车
和出租车司机们保持着警觉，
但他们并不惊扰
此时的气氛。
他们不惊扰寂寥的洛克菲勒中心，
以及福尔顿鱼市场那
一动不动的看门人，以及开着收音机，自己倚在斯洛比·路易快餐店
边上睡着
了的加油站服务员。
8.
At
five
a.m.,
the
Broadway
regulars
either
have
gone
home
or
to
all-night
coffee
shops
where,
under
the
glaring
light,
you
see
their
whiskers and wear. And
on Fifty-first Street a radio press car is parked
at
the curb with a photographer who has
nothing to do. So he just sits there
for a few nights, looks through the
windshield and soon becomes a keen
observer of life after midnight.
早上
5
点
，百老汇的常客们不是回家了，就是在通宵咖啡馆里。在
咖啡馆眩目的灯光下，
看得见男人的胡须和女人的脂粉。
在第
5
大
街，一辆无线电采访车停在路边。车内的摄影记者百无聊赖。他只是
连着几夜坐在车内，望着挡风玻璃外的一切。很快，他饶有兴味地观
察起午夜后的夜
生活来。
9.
one
a.m.
he
says,
is
filled
with
wise
guys
and
with
kids
coming out of the Astor Hotel in white dinner
jackets
——
kids who
drive to dances in their fathers' cars.
You also see cleaning ladies going
home,
always
wearing
kerchiefs.
By
two
a.m.
some
of
the
drinkers
are
getting out of hand, and this is the
hour for bar fights. At three a.m. the
last
show
is
over,
in
the
nightclubs,
and
most
of
the
tourists
and
out-
of-town
buyers
are
back
in
hotels.
And
small-time
comedians
are
criticizing big-time comedians in
Hanson's Drugstore. At four a.m., after
the bars close, you see the drunks come
out
——
and also the pimps
and
prostitutes,
who
take
advantage
of
drunks.
At
five
a.m.,
though,
it
is
mostly quiet. New York is
an entirely different city at five
a.m.
“早上
1
点，
”他说，
“百老汇到处是些聪明人，还有不少小伙
子穿
着白色的礼服从埃斯特宾馆出来——这些小伙子是开着父亲的车来
< br>跳舞的。
你还可以看见回家的清洁女工，
她们总是头戴头
巾。
到
2
点
时，有些饮酒的人开始失去控制。这是酒吧
殴斗的时刻。
3
点，夜
总会最后一场演出结束了。
这时，
大多数游客以及外
地来的购物者们
已经回到了酒店里。在汉森药房里，
默默无闻的喜剧演员会对喜剧
明星们大加抨击。
4
点，酒吧打烊了，你看得见醉汉们走出来，还有
拉皮条的和
妓女们占醉汉的便宜。然而，到了早上
5
点，一切大多
静寂下来。凌晨
5
点的纽约成了一个完全不同的城市。
10. At six a.m., the early workers
begin to push up from the subways. The
traffic
begins
to
move
down
Broadway
like
a
river.
And
Mrs.
Mary
Woody
jumps
out
of
bed,
dashes
to
her
office
and
phones
dozens
of
sleepy
New Yorkers to say in a cheerful voice, rarely
appreciated:
morning.
Time
to
get
up.
For
twenty
years,
as
an
operator
of
Western
Union's Wake-Up
Service, Mrs. Woody has gotten millions out of
bed.
早上
6
点，早起的工人们开始从地铁里拥挤着走上来。车辆人群如
河流般流淌在百老汇
。而玛丽·伍迪太太则从床上跳起来，冲进办公
室，
给几十位睡
意朦胧的纽约人打电话。
她那欢快的嗓音很少得到人
们的赞赏：
“早上好。该起床啦。
”二十年来，伍迪太太是西部联合电
信公司唤醒服务的服务员。她已经将几百万人叫醒起床。
11. By seven a.m., a floridly robust
little man, looking very Parisian in a
blue
beret
and
turtleneck
sweater,
moves
in
a
hurried
step
along
Park
Avenue
visiting his wealthy lady friends
——
making certain that each
is
given
a
brisk,
before-breakfast
rubdown.
The
uniformed
doormen
greet
him
warmly and call him either
a
ladies'
masseur
extraordinaire.
He
never
reveals
the
names
of
his
customers, but most of them are middle-
aged and rich. He visits each of
them
in
their
apartments,
and
has
special
keys
to
their
bedrooms;
he
is
often the first man they see in the
morning, and they lie in bed waiting for
him.
早晨
7
点，一个穿着花哨、身材敦实的小个子男人步履匆忙地走在
帕克大街上。他戴一顶蓝色贝雷帽，穿一件高领毛线衣，
看起来像
个巴黎人。
他正赶去造访那几位有
钱的女性友人——他保证每一位都
能在早餐前轻快地接受一次按摩。
身着制服的门房们热情地向他打招
呼。
他们要么管他叫
“比兹”
，
要么叫
“麦克”
，
因为他的名字是比兹·
麦<
/p>
凯，是一位专为女性按摩的按摩师。他从不透露客户的姓名。她们大
多是些有钱的中年女性。
他逐一来到她们的寓所中。
他有特殊
的钥匙，
能够进入她们的卧室。
他常常是她们早上见的第一个男
人。
她们就躺
在床上，等着他。
12. The doormen that Biz passes each
morning are generally an obliging,
endlessly
articulate
group
of
sidewalk
diplomats
who
list
among
their
friends some of Manhattan's most
powerful men, most beautiful women
and
snootiest poodles. More often than not, the
doormen are big, slightly
Gothic
in
design,
and
the
possessors
of
eyes
sharp
enough
to
spot
big
tippers a block away in the year's
thickest fog. Some East Side doormen
are as proud as grandees, and their
uniforms, heavily festooned, seem to
come from the same tailor who outfitted
Marshal Tito.
比兹每天早上走过的那些门房，
通常是一群彬彬有礼、
滔滔不绝的人。
他们是门口路边的外交家
。
曼哈顿最有势力的男人、
最漂亮的
女人，
还有最势利的哈巴狗都被他们视作朋友。
门房常常个子高
高的，
举止
显得有点哥特式风格。
他们
有一双敏锐的眼睛，
能够透过一年中最浓
的雾，
看到远在一个街区以外的地方谁给小费最阔绰。
一些西区的门
< br>房就像西班牙大公一样倨傲，
而他们的制服缀满花饰，
简直就好像
是为
铁托元帅
制衣的同一个裁缝制作的。
13.
Shortly after seven-thirty each morning hundreds
of people are lined
along
Forty-second
Street
waiting
for
the
eight
a.m.
opening
of
the
ten
movie
houses
that
stand
almost
shoulder-to-shoulder
between
Times
Square and Eighth
Avenue. Who are these people who go to the movies
at
eight a.m.? They are the city's
insomniacs, night watchmen, and people
who can't go home, do not want to go
home, or have no home. They are
derelicts,
homosexuals,
cops,
hacks,
truck
drivers,
cleaning
ladies
and
restaurant men who have
worked all night. They are also alcoholics who
are waiting at eight a.m. to pay forty
cents for a soft seat and to sleep in
the
dark
smoky
theatre.
And
yet,
aside
from
being
smoky,
each
of
the
Times Square's theatres
has a special quality, or lack of quality, about
it.
At the Victory Theatre one finds
horror films, while at the Times Square
Theatre they feature only cowboy films.
There are first-run films for forty
cents at the Lyric, while at the Selwyn
there are always second-run films
for
thirty
cents.
But
if
you
go
to
the
Apollo
Theatre
you
will
see,
in
addition
to
foreign
films,
people
in
the
lobby
talking
with
their
hands.
These are deaf-and-dumb movie fans who
patronize the Apollo because
they
read
the
subtitles.
The
Apollo
probably
has
the
biggest
deaf-and-dumb movie audience in the
world.
7
点半才过一会儿，几百个人就在
42
街排着队，等候
8
点钟电影
院开门。
在时代广场和第
8
大街之间，
10
家电影院几乎比肩接踵地
排列着。这些
8
点钟就去看电影的是什么人呢？他们是这个城市中
失眠的人、夜间值班工，还有那些不能回家、不想回家，或者无家可
归的
人。
他们中有整夜干活的穷人、同性恋者、警察、出租车司机、
卡车司机、清洁女工和餐馆工人。
其中还有酗酒者，他们到
8
点就
等着，付
4
毛钱，换一个柔软的座位，在暗暗的烟雾腾腾的电影院
里睡上一觉。但是，除了烟雾缭绕之外，时代广场的剧院还有一大特
质，
或者，
也可以说它们没有特质。
在
胜利剧院，
人们可以看恐怖片，
而在时代广场剧院则只上映牛仔
片。莱利克影院花
4
毛钱可以看首
映片，而在赛而温影院总是放映旧片，票价
3
毛。如果到阿波罗剧
院，那么，
除了外国电影外，你还能看到大厅里用手说话的人们。
这些是聋哑的
影迷，
他们常来阿波罗剧院，
因为在这里他们可以看电
影字幕。阿波罗剧院可能拥有世界上最多的聋哑电影观众。
14. New York is a city of 38,000
cabdrivers, 10,000 bus drivers, but only
one
chauffeur
who
has
a
chauffeur.
The
wealthy
chauffeur
can
be
seen
driving
up
Fifth
Avenue
each
morning,
and
his
name
is
Roosevelt
Zanders.
He
earns
$$100,000
a
year,
is
a
gentleman
of
impeccable
taste
and, although he owns
a $$23,000 Rolls-Royce, does not scorn his friends
who
own
Bentleys.
For
$$150
a
day,
s
will
drive
anyone
anywhere in his big, silver Rolls.
Diplomats patronize him, models pose
next
to
him,
and
each
day
he
receives
cables
from
around
the
world
urging that he be waiting at Idlewild,
on the docks, or outside the Plaza
Hotel. Sometimes at night, however, he
is too tired to drive anymore. So
Bob
Clarke, his chauffeur, takes over and s relaxes in
the back.
纽约有
38
，
000
名出租车司机、
10
，
000
名公共汽车司机，还有一
位有自己的私人司机的私人司机。
每天早上，
人们可以看见这位有钱
的司机在第<
/p>
5
大街上驱车。他的名字是罗斯福·赞德斯。他一年挣
10
，
000
美元，是一位趣味上无可挑剔的绅士。
而且，尽管拥有一
辆价值
23
，
000
美元的劳斯莱斯，可他并不看不起那些开本特利车
的朋友们。一天
150
美元，赞德斯先生就能用他那辆银色的大劳斯<
/p>
莱斯车，将任何人送往任何地方。外交官们常常聘请他，模特儿们在
他身边搔首弄姿。
每天他都接到世界各地发来的电报，
要他在
爱德华
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