面料英语解释

D

ICTIONARY OF

F

ABRIC

T

ERMS

A - H

A

Absorbency

The

ability

of

a

fabric

to

take

in

moisture.

Absorbency

is

a

very

important

property,

which

effects

many

other

characteristics

such

as

skin

comfort,

static

build-up,

shrinkage,

stain

removal, water repellency, and wrinkle recovery.

Acetate

A

manufactured

fiber

formed

by

compound

of

cellulose,

refined

from

cotton

linters

and/or

wood pulp, and acedic acid that has been extruded through a spinneret and then hardened.

Acrylic

A

manufactured

fiber

derived

from

polyacrylonitrile.

Its

major

properties

include

a

soft,

wool-like

hand,

machine

washable

and

dryable,

excellent

color

retention.

Solution-dyed

versions have excellent resistance to sunlight and chlorine degradation.

Alpaca

A

natural

hair

fiber

obtained

from

the

Alpaca

sheep,

a

domesticated

member

of

the

llama

family.

The

fiber

is

most

commonly

used

in

fabrics

made

into

dresses,

suits,

coats,

and

sweaters.

Angora

The hair of the Angora goat. Also known as Angora mohair. Angora may also apply to the fur

of the Angora rabbit. However, according to the U.S. Federal Trade Commission, any apparel

containing Angora rabbit hair must be labeled as

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B

Barré

An

imperfection,

characterized

by

a

ridge

or

mark

running

in

the

crosswise

or

lengthwise

directions of the fabric. Barr

巗

can be caused by tension variations in the knitting process,

poor quality yarns, problems during the finishing process.

Basket Weave

A variation of the plain weave construction, formed by treating two or more warp yarns and/or

two or more filling yarns as one unit in the weaving process. Yarns in a basket weave are laid

into

the

woven

construction

flat,

and

maintain

a

parallel

relationship.

Both

balanced

and

unbalanced

basket

weave

fabrics

can

be

produced.

Examples

of

basket

weave

construction

includes monk cloth and oxford cloth.

Bast Fiber

Strong, soft, woody fibers, such as flax, jute, hemp, and ramie, which are obtained from the

inner bark in the stems of certain plants.

Batiste

A

medium-weight,

plain

weave

fabric,

usually

made

of

cotton

or

cotton

blends.

End-uses

include blouses and dresses.

Bedford Cord

A cord cotton-like fabric with raised ridges in the lengthwise direction. Since the fabric has a

high strength and a high durability, it is often used for upholstery and work clothes.

Blend

A term applied to a yarn or a fabric that is made up of more than one fiber. In blended yarns,

two

or

more

different

types

of

staple

fibers

are

twisted

or

spun

together

to

form

the

yarn.

Examples of a typical blended yarn or fabric is polyester/cotton.

Boucle

A knit or woven fabric made from a rough, curly, knotted boucle yarn. The fabric has a looped,

knotted surface and is often used in sportswear and coats.

Broadcloth

A

plain

weave

tightly

woven

fabric,

characterized

by

a

slight

ridge

effect

in

one

direction,

usually

the

filling.

The

most

common

broadcloth

is

made

from

cotton

or

cotton/polyester

blends.

Brocade

A

heavy,

exquisite

jacquard

type

fabric

with

an

all-over

raised

pattern

or

floral

design.

Common end-uses include such formal applications as upholstery, draperies, and eveningwear.

Burlap

A

loosely

constructed,

heavy

weight,

plain

weave

fabric

used

as

a

carpet

backing,

and

as

inexpensive

packaging

for

sacks

of

grain

or

rice.

Also,

as

fashion

dictates,

burlap

may

also

appear as a drapery fabric.

Burn-out

A

brocade-like

pattern

effect

created

on

the

fabric

through

the

application

of

a

chemical,

instead

of

color,

during

the

burn- out

printing

process.

(Sulfuric

acid,

mixed

into

a

colorless

print paste, is the most common chemical used.) Many simulated eyelet effects can be created

using this method. In these instances, the chemical destroys the fiber and creates a hole in the

fabric in a specific design, where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric. The fabric is

then

over-printed

with

a

simulated

embroidery

stitch

to

create

the

eyelet

effect.

However,

burn-out effects can also be created on velvets made of blended fibers, in which the ground

fabric is of one fiber like a polyester, and the pile may be of a cellulosic fiber like rayon or

acetate. In this case, when the chemical is printed in a certain pattern, it destroys the pile in

those areas where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric, but leave the ground fabric

unharmed.

Return to Index

C

Calendering

A process for finishing fabrics in which such special effects as high luster, glazing, embossing,

and moiré

are produced.

Calico

A tightly-woven cotton type fabric with an all-over print, usually a small floral pattern on a

contrasting background color. Common end-uses include dresses, aprons, and quilts.

Camel's Hair

A

natural

fiber

obtained

from

the

hair

of

the

Bactrian

camel,

a

two-humped

pack-carrying

species. The fiber is used primarily in coats, sweaters, and suits.

Carding

A process which eliminates fibers too short for inclusion in the spun yarn. The process also

removes dirt and foreign matter still remaining in the fiber mass, and arranges the fibers into a

very thin layer.

Cashmere

A

luxury

fiber

obtained

from

the

soft

fleecy

undergrowth

of

the

Kashmir

goat

of

Tibet,

Mongolia, China, Iran, Iraq, and India. Most commonly used in sweaters, shawls, suits, coats,

and dresses.

Cellulose

A material derived from the cell walls of certain plants. Cellulose is used in the production of

many

vegetable

fibers,

as

well

as

being

the

major

raw

material

component

used

in

the

production of the manufactured fibers of acetate, rayon, and triacetate.

Challis

A

lightweight,

soft

plain

weave

fabric

with

a

slightly

brushed

surface.

The

fabric

is

often

printed, usually in a floral pattern. Challis is most often seen in fabrics made of cotton, wool,

or rayon.

Chambray

A plain woven fabric that can be made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers, but is most

commonly cotton. It incorporates a colored warp (often blue) and white filling yarns.

Chiffon

A

plain

woven

lightweight,

extremely

sheer,

airy,

and

soft

silk

fabric,

containing

highly

twisted

filament

yarns.

The

fabric,

used

mainly

in

evening

dresses

and

scarves,

can

also

be

made from rayon and other manufactured fibers.

Chintz

A

plain-weave

fabric,

which

has

been

glazed

to

produce

a

polished

look.

Usually

made

of

cotton, this fabric is most commonly used in blouses, dresses, draperies, and slipcovers.

Colorfastness

A

term

used

to

describe

a

dyed

fabric's

ability

to

resist

fading

due

to

washing,

exposure

to

sunlight, and other environmental conditions.

Combing

The

combing

process

is

an

additional

step

beyond

carding.

In

this

process

the

fibers

are

arranged

in

a

highly

parallel

form,

and

additional

short

fibers

are

removed,

producing

high

quality yarns with excellent strength, fineness, and uniformity.

Corduroy

A fabric, usually made of cotton, utilizing a cut-pile weave construction. Extra sets of filling

yarns are woven into the fabric to form ridges of yarn on the surface. The ridges are built so

that clear lines can be seen when the pile is cut.

Core-Spun Yarns

Consist of a filament base yarn, with an exterior wrapping of loose fiber which has not been

twisted into a yarn. Polyester filament is often wrapped with a cotton outer layer in order to

provide the strength and resiliency of polyester, along with the moisture-absorbent aesthetics

and dye affinity of cotton. Sewing thread as well as household and apparel fabrics are made

from these yarns.

Converter

A person or a company which buys grey goods and sells them as finished fabrics. A converter

organizes

and

manages

the

process

of

finishing

the

fabric

to

a

buyers'

specifications,

particularly the bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.

Cotton

A unicellular, natural fiber that grows in the seed pod of the cotton plant. Fibers are typically

1/2 inch to 2 inches long. The longest staple fibers, longer than 1 1/2 inch, including the Pima

and Egyptian varieties, produce the highest quality cotton fabrics.

Crepe- back Satin

A satin fabric in which highly twisted yarns are used in the filling direction. The floating yarns

are made with low twist and may be of either high or low luster. If the crepe effect is the right

side of the fabric, the fabric is called satin-back crepe.

Crinoline

A lightweight, plain weave, stiffened fabric with a low yarn count (few yarns to the inch in

each direction).

Crocking

The rubbing-off of dye from a fabric. Crocking can be the result of lack of penetration of the

dyeing agent, the use of incorrect dyes or dyeing procedures, or the lack of proper washing

procedures and finishing treatments after the dyeing process.

Cuprammonium

A process of producing a type of regenerated rayon

fiber.

In this process, the

wood pulp or

cotton liners are dissolved in an ammoniac copper oxide solution. Bemberg rayon is a type of

Cuprammonium rayon.

Return to Index

D

Damask

A glossy jacquard fabric, usually made from linen, cotton, rayon, silk, or blends. The patterns

are

flat

and

reversible.

The

fabric

is

often

used

in

napkins,

tablecloths,

draperies,

and

upholstery.

Denier

A

system

of

measuring

the

weight

of

a

continuous

filament

fiber.

In

the

United

States,

this

measurement is used to number all manufactured fibers (both filament and staple), and silk,

but excluding glass fiber. The lower the number, the finer the fiber; the higher the number, the

heavier

the

fiber.

Numerically,

a

denier

is

the

equivalent

to

the

weight

in

grams

of

9,000

meters of continuous filament fiber.

Denim

True denim is a twill weave cotton-like fabric made with different colored yarns in the warp

and the weft. Due to the twill construction, one color predominates on the fabric surface.

Dobby Weave

A decorative weave, characterized by small figures, usually geometric, that are woven into the

fabric structure. Dobbies may be of any weight or compactness, with yarns ranging from very

fine to coarse and fluffy. Standard dobby fabrics are usually flat and relatively fine or sheer.

However, some heavyweight dobby fabrics are available for home furnishings and for heavy

apparel.

Doeskin

Generally applied to a type of fabric finish in which a low nap is brushed in one direction to

create a soft suede-like hand on the fabric surface. End-uses include billiard table surfaces and

men's' sportswear.

Donegal Tweed

A medium to heavy of plain or twill weave fabric in which colorful yarn slubs are woven into

the

fabric.

The

name

originally

applied

to

a

hand-woven

woolen

tweed

fabric

made

in

Donegal, Ireland. End-uses include winter coats and suits.

Dotted Swiss

A

lightweight,

sheer

cotton

or

cotton

blend

fabric

with

a

small

dot

flock- like

pattern

either

printed on the surface of the fabric, or woven into the fabric. End-uses for this fabric include

blouses, dresses, baby clothes, and curtains.

Double Cloth

A fabric construction, in which two fabrics are woven on the loom at the same time, one on

top of the other. In the weaving process, the two layers of woven fabric are held together using

binder

threads.

The

woven

patterns

in

each

layer

of

fabric

can

be

similar

or

completely

different.

Double Knit

A weft knit fabric in which two layers of loops are formed that cannot be separated. A double

knit machine, which has two complete sets of needles, is required for this construction.

Double Weave

A woven fabric construction made by interlacing two or more sets of warp yarns with two or

more sets of filling yarns. The most common double weave fabrics are made using a total of

either four or five sets of yarns.

Duck

A

tightly

woven,

heavy,

plain-weave,

bottom-weight

fabric

with

a

hard,

durable

finish.

The

fabric

is

usually

made

of

cotton,

and

is

widely

used

in

men's

and

women's

slacks,

and

children's playclothes.

Durability

The ability of a fabric to resist wear through continual use.

Durable Press

A

treatment

applied

to

the

fabric

in

the

finishing

process

in

which

it

maintains

a

smooth

attractive appearance, resists wrinkling, and retains creases or pleats during laundering.

Return to Index

E

Elasticity

The ability of a fiber or fabric to return to its original length, shape, or size immediately after

the removal of stress.

Embossing

A

calendering

process

in

which

fabrics

are

engraved

with

the

use

of

heated

rollers

under

pressure to produce a raised design on the fabric surface.