-
[
世界上最冷的地方
/
蒂姆·维卡里
著
]
The Coldest Place On Earth by Tim
Vicary
■
简介
<
/p>
当今,南极有一座房子,叫阿蒙森—斯科特南极站。室内暖融融的,无论夏冬,人们都
p>
可以在那儿生活、
工作。
飞机毫不费力地便
能飞抵或是飞离南极站。
从这儿到世界其它地方,
要不了多少小
时。但是从南极站出来走上
500
米,那儿的南极洲便再次成为
地球上最寒冷、
最空旷的地区。
在
1911
年,当时的南极既没见过飞机也没建有住房。除了茫茫大雪、冰封天地与凛凛
寒风外,一
无所有。没有英国国旗,没有挪威国旗。但是,有几个人缓慢地向南走着,横穿
冰封大地
。
斯科特率领的人配备了小马,
而阿蒙森率领的人配备了狗与滑
雪板。
当时的温度
为-
30
℃或者更糟。这些人忍受着疲倦、饥饿和寒冷??他们中谁将是到达南极的第一人
< br>呢?
目前,在阿蒙森—斯科特南极站内,墙上写着一些字,是斯科特队长于
1912
p>
年写在日
记里的一句话:
“天啊,这地方太可怕了!
”
本文的作者蒂姆·
维卡里是经验丰富的教师和作家。
他现今在英国北部的约克生活工作。
■
Chapter 1 Two
Ships
The race
began in the summer of 1910
.
On June
lst
,
in
London
,
a black
ship
,
the Terra
Nova
,
went down
the river Thames to the
sea
.
Thousands of
people stood by the river to watch
it
.
They were all excited and
happy
.
On the Terra
Nova
,
Captain Robert Falcon
Scott smiled quietly
.
It was
a very important day
for
him
.
He was a strong
man
,
not very
tall
,
in the blue clothes of
a captain
.
He was forty-one
years old
,
but he
had a young face
,
like a
boy
.
His eyes were dark and
quiet
.
One man on the
ship
,
Titus
Oates
,
smiled at
Scott
.
'What an exciting day
,
Captain
!
'he
said
.
'Look at those
people
!
I feel like an
important man
!
'
Scott
laughed
.
'You are important
p>
,
Titus
,
'
he said
.
'And you're going to
be famous
,
too
.
We
all
are
.
Do you see this
flag
?
'He looked at the big
British flag at the back of the
ship
,
and smiled
at Oates
.
'That
flag is coming with us
,
'he
said
.
'In the
Antarctic
,
I'm going to carry
it under my clothes
.
We're going to be the first men at
the South
Pole
,
and that flag is going
to be first
,
too
!<
/p>
'
* *
* * *
Five days
later
,
on June
6th
,
a man opened the door of
his wooden house in
Norway
.
He was
a
tall man
,
with a long
face
.
He waited outside the
house for a
minute
.
Everything was very
quiet
.
He could
see no houses
,
only mountains
,
trees
,
and wa-ter
.
It was nearly
dark
.
The sky
was
black over the mountains
.
The man
smiled
,
and walked quickly
away from the house
,
down to
the sea
.
In the
water
,
a big wooden ship
waited for him
.
The man got
onto the ship
,
and talked and
laughed quietly with
his
friends
.
The
ship's
name
was
Fram
,
and
the
man
was
Roald
Amundsen
.
The
Fram
was
the
most
beautiful ship on
earth
,
Amundsen
thought
.
His friends were the
best skiers on earth
,
too
.
One
of
them
,
Olav
Bjaaland
,
smiled at
him
.
'North Pole
,
here
we come
,
Captain
,<
/p>
'he said
.
'Yes
.
'Amundsen
said
.
His friends could not
see his face in the
dark
.
'Fram is going to the
Arctic
.
'
Everyone on the
Fram was ready to go to the North
Pole
,
to the
Arctic
.
Amundsen wanted to
go there
,
too
.
But first he wanted to go
south
.
His friends didn't
know that
.
At midnight on June
6th
,
the Fram moved quietly
away from Amundsen's
house
,
out to
sea
.
■
1
两艘船
比赛开始于
1910
年夏天。
6
月
1
日,伦敦。特若·诺瓦号这艘黑船顺泰晤士河而
下,向大海驶去。成千上万的人
伫立岸边观望,所有的人脸上都露出兴奋与幸福。
特若·
诺瓦号上,
队长罗伯特·
福尔康·
斯科特无声地笑了。
这一天对他来说太重要了。
他
个头不高,但长得壮实,穿着蓝色的队长制服。他虽说已经
41
岁,但是由于长着一张娃
娃脸,所以看上去仍像个小孩。他双眼乌黑而又沉静。
泰特斯·奥茨,船上的一位水手,冲着队长笑了。
“多么令人兴奋的日子啊,队长!
”他说,
“看看这些人!我觉得自己好似成为重要人物
了!
”
队长朗声笑了。
“泰特斯,你的确是
重要人物,
”他说,
“而且你很快就要名扬天下,就
同我们大家一样。
你看到这国旗了吗?”
他注视着
船尾那面巨幅的英国国旗,
微笑着对奥茨
说:
< br>“那面国旗将会随我们一道去。在南极洲,我将把它夹在衣服里面带着。我们将成为首
批到达南极的人,那面国旗也将是第一面到达南极的旗帜。
”
* * * * *
5
天以后
,
6
月
6
日。
在挪威,一个人拉开了自己的木房子的门。这人高个、长脸。他
在室外稍候片刻,四周万
籁俱寂。他目光所及之处,没有住房,只有群山、树林和大海。天
近傍晚,群山上面是黑
沉沉的一片天空。
这人脸上露出微笑,快步离开木屋,朝海边走去。大海中,一艘大型木船正等着他。他
来到船上,与朋友们聊着,悄悄地笑着。
这船叫弗雷门号,这人便是罗阿尔·
阿蒙森。
阿蒙森认为,弗雷门号是地球上最美丽的
一艘船。
p>
他的朋友是
地球上最优秀的滑雪者。
其中有位朋友叫奥拉夫·
比阿兰德,<
/p>
正冲着他微笑。
“北极,我们去那儿,队长。
”他说。
“是的,
”阿蒙森说。由于天色已黑,这位朋友看不见他的面部表情。
“弗雷门号正驶向
北极。
”
弗雷门号上的每个人全都准备就绪:
到北极圈,上北极。
阿蒙森也想去那儿。
然而他第
一想做的事,便是向南航行。他的朋友却毫不知情。
6
月
p>
6
日午夜,弗雷门号无声地驶离阿蒙森的家园,驶向大海。
■
Chapter 2 The
Race
The Fram
went to an island in the south of
Norway
.
It was a very little
island
,
with only one
small wooden
house
,
two
trees
—
and nearly a hundred
dogs
.
'Look at
that
!
'Bjaaland
said
.
'It's an island of
dogs
!
There are dogs in the
water
,
near the
trees
,
on the
house
—
dogs
everywhere
!
'
Two men came out of the hou
se
.
'Hassel
!
Lindstrom
!
'Amundsen
said
.
'It's good to see
you
!
How many dogs do you
have for me
?
'
'Ninety-nine
,
Roald
,
'said
Hassel
.
'The best ninety-nine
dogs from Greenland
.
And
they're
very
happy
!
They don't
work
;
they just eat and play
all day
!
They're having a
won-derful summer
here
!
'
'Good
,
good
.
'Amundsen
laughed
.
'But that's finished
now
.
Hey
,
Bjaaland
!
Stop
laughing
—
come down here and
help me
.
Let's get all these
dogs onto the ship
!
'
It was not
easy
.
The dogs were fat and
strong
,
and they didn't want
to go on the ship
.
But at
last
,
after three
hours'hard work
,
all ninety-
nine were on the ship
,
and
the Fram went out to sea
again
.
The men were
not happy
.
The weather was
bad
,
the dogs were
dirty
,
and some of the men
were ill
.
They
began to ask questions
.
'Why are we
bringing dogs witn us
?
'asked
one man
,
Jo-
hansen
.
'We're going
thousands of
kilometres
south
,
past Cape
Horn
,
and then north to
Alaska
.
Why not
wait
,
and get dogs in
Alaska
?
'
'Don't ask
me
,
'said his
friend
,
Helmer
Hanssen
,
'I don't understand
it
.
'
The men talked for a long time
.
Then
,
on
September 9th
,
Amundsen called everyone to the
back of the
ship
.
He stood quietly and
looked at them
.
Behind him
was a big map
.
It was not a
map of the
Arctic
.
It was a map of
Antarctica
.
Bjaaland looked at Helmer
Hanssen
,
and
laughed
.
Then Amundsen began
to speak
.
'Boys
,
'he
said
.
'I know you are
unhappy
.
You often ask me
difficult questions
,
and I
don't
answer
.
Well
,
I'm going to an-swer all
those questions now
,
today
.
We began to work for this journey two
years ago
.
Then
,
p>
we wanted to be the first men at the
North Pole
.
But
last year
,
Peary
,<
/p>
an American
,
found
the North Pole
.
So America
was first to
the North
Pole
,
not
Norway
.
We're going
there
,
but we're too
late
.
'
'I don't understand
this
,
'Bjaaland
thought
.
'Why is Amundsen
talking about the North
Pole
,
with a map of
Antarctica behind him
?
'
Amundsen
stopped for a minute
,
and
looked at all the men
slowly
.
No one said
anything
.
'We have to go a long way
south before we get to
Alaska
,
'he
said
.
'Very near
Antarctica
,
you
know
.
And Captain
Scott
,
the
Englishman
,
is going to the
South Pole this year
.
He
wants to put
his British flag
there
.
An American flag at
the North Pole
,
a British
flag at the South Pole
.
'
Bjaaland
began
to
understand
.
He
started
to
smile
and
couldn't
stop
.
He
was
warm
and
excited
.
'Well
,
boys
,
'Amundsen
said slowly
.
'Do we want the
British to put their flag at the South
Pole first
?
How
fast can we travel
?
We have a
lot of
dogs
,
and
some of the
most won-derful
skiers on
earth
—
Bjaaland here is the
best in Norway
!
So I have an
idea
,
boys
.
Let's go to the
South
Pole
,
and put the Norwegian
flag there before the
British
!
What do you
say
?
'
For a minute or two it was
very quiet
.
Amundsen
waited
,
and the men watched
him and
thought
.
Then
Bjaaland
laughed
.
'Yes
!
'he
said
.
'Why
not
?
It's a ski
race
,
isn't
it
,
and the English can't
ski
!
It's a wonderful
idea
,
of
course
!
Let's
go
!
'
■
2
比赛
<
/p>
弗雷门号抵达挪威南部的一个小岛。该岛很小,仅有一间小木屋,两棵树,还有将近
100
条狗。
“看那儿!
”比阿兰德说,
“是座狗岛!海水里有狗,树旁有狗,房顶上有狗,处处都有
狗!
”
房内走出两个人。
“哈塞尔!林德斯特伦!
”阿蒙
森呼唤说,
“见到你们就好了!你们给
我养了多少条狗?”
p>
“
99
条,罗阿尔,
”哈塞尔说,
“
99
条格陵兰最好的狗。这些狗太好过了,啥事不干
,
整天好吃好玩!它们正在这儿欢度夏天呢!
”
“好,好,
”阿蒙森朗声笑了,
“但是现在这一切全结束了。喂,比阿兰德!别笑啦,
下
船来这儿,帮帮我,把这些狗全弄到船上去!
”
这事并不容易。这些
狗又肥又壮,不愿上船。然而在苦干
3
小时后,所有
99
条狗全都
上船,弗雷门号再度驶向大海。
p>
船上的人员
高兴不起来:气候恶劣,狗群肮脏,而且有人病倒了。于是,他们便开始提
出种种问题。
“我们
为什么要带这些狗?”有人提问说,他叫约翰森。
“我们即将南行好几千公里,
穿越合恩角,然后向北,到阿拉斯加。为什么不等等,等到阿拉斯加后再弄狗?”
“别问我,
”他的朋友赫尔默·汉森说,
“我也搞不懂。
”<
/p>
好长时间
内,这些人一直都在议论纷纷。后来,
9
月
9
日那天,阿蒙森将所有人员召集
到大船尾部。他静静地站
着,看着众人。他身后有一大幅地图,然而这不是北极地图,而是
南极洲地图。
比阿兰德看着赫
尔默·汉森,笑出声来。这时,阿蒙森开始讲话。
“伙计们,
”他说,
“我知道你们心中不满。你们经常问我一些难题,我都没有回答。好
吧,今天我
当即解答所有的问题。
”
“两年前,我们便开始为这次旅程做准备。当时,我们想成为
最先抵达北极的人。然而
去年,美国人皮里找到了北极。所以,美国人首先到达了北极,
而不是挪威人。我们现在正
要去那儿,但为时过晚了。
”
“我听不懂这
些话,
”
比阿兰德心想,
“阿蒙森身后
挂着南极洲地图,
为什么却大谈北极
呢?”
阿蒙森稍作停顿,缓缓地看着全体人员。这时没有任何人多嘴。
“到阿拉斯加前,还得南行好远的
路,
”他说。
“你们都知道,几乎是到了南极洲。英国
人斯科特队长今年正赶往南极。
他想将英国国旗插在那儿。
美国国旗已经插上了北极,
而英
国国旗正插向南极。
”
p>
比阿兰德开始省悟了,脸上露出了微笑,难以自制。他浑身暖洋洋的,亢奋不已。
“好吧,
伙计们,
”
阿蒙森缓缓地说,
< br>“眼睁睁地看着英国人将他们的旗帜首先插上南极,
我们能同意吗?我们的前行速
度非常之快,
不是吗?我们不仅带着许多狗,
而且拥有地球上<
/p>
最杰出的滑雪能手:
我们这儿的比阿兰德便是全挪威最优秀的!<
/p>
所以,
我有个主意,
伙计们。
咱们到南极去,赶在英国国旗之前,将挪威国旗插到那儿去!你们有何看法?”
一时间,整个场面安静极了
。阿蒙森等待着,而这些人看着他,考虑着这些。这时,比
阿兰德朗笑出声。
“对!
”他说,
“为什么不呢?这是场滑雪比赛,难道不是吗?再说,英国人不会
滑雪!
这主意绝妙之极!咱们就去那儿!
”
■
Chapter 3 The Ponies
On October
27th
,
the Terra Nova arrived
in Wellington
,
New
Zealand
.
When Scott came off
the ship
,
a
newspa-per man walked up to
him
.
'Captain
Scott
!
Captain
Scott
!
Can I talk to you
,
please
!
'he
said
.
Scott stopped and smiled
.
'Yes
,
of
course
,
'he
said
.
'What do you want to
know
?
'
'Are you going to
win
?
'the man
asked
.
'Win
?
'Scott
asked
.
'Win
what
?
'
'Win the race to the South
Pole
,
of
course
,
'the newspaper man
said
.
'It's a race between
you
and Amundsen
,
now
.
Look at
this
!
'He gave a newspaper to
Scott
.
Scott looked at
it
.
It
said
:
Scott's face went
white
.
'Give me
that
!
'he
said
.
He took the newspaper
and read it carefully
.
The
newspaper man watched
him
,
and waited
.
p>
'Well
,
Captain
Scott
,
'he said at
last
.
'Who's going to
win this
race
?
Tell me
that
!
'
Scott looked at him
angrily
.
'This is
stupid
!
'he
said
.
'It's not a
race
!
I came here to learn
about
the
Antarctic
—
I'm not interested
in Amundsen
,
or in
races
!
'Then he walked back
on-to his ship
,
with the
newspaper in his hand
.
Later that
day
,
he talked to his
men
.
He gave them the
newspaper
,
and
laughed
.
'It doesn't
matter
,
'he
said
.
'We're in front of
Amundsen
,
and we have more
men
,
and more
money
.
He has only
eight men
,
and a lot of
dogs
.
I know about
dogs
—
they don't work in the
Antarctic
.
We have
sixteen men and the new motor
sledges
—
they are much
better
.
And tomorrow
the
ponies
are
coming
.
We
need
ponies
,
motor
sledges
,
and
good
strong
British
men
—
that's
all
.
Forget about
Amundsen
!
He's not
important
!
'
Scott asked Oates to look
after the ponies
,
but he did
not let Oates buy them
.
When
Oates
first saw the
ponies
,
in New
Zealand
,
he was very
unhappy
.
Most of the ponies
were old
,
and
some
of them were ill
.
'They're
beautiful
ponies
,
Titus
,
'Scott
said
.
'They
come
from
China
—
they're
wonderful
ponies
!
'
Oates
looked
at
them
angrily
,
and
said
nothing
.
Then
he
asked
:
'Where
is
their
food
,
Captain
?
'
'Here
!
'Scott
opened a door
.
Oates looked
inside
.
He thought for a
minute
.
'We need more food
than this
,
Captain
Scott
!
These ponies are going
to work in the coldest place on
earth
—
they need a lot of
food
—
more than
this
!
'
Scott smiled
quietly
.
'We can't take more
food on this ship
,
Titus
.
Where can we put
it
?
But
it doesn't
matter
,
old
boy
.
They're very strong
ponies
,
you
know
.
The best ponies on
earth
.
'
Later that
night
,
Oates wrote a letter
to his mother
.
There are
nineteen ponies on the Terra
Nova
now
,
he
wrote
.
All the penies are in
a small room at the front of the
ship
.
We eat our food
in the room under the
ponies
,
so our table is often
wet and dirty
.
Scott makes a
lot of mistakes
,
I
think
,
and Antarc-tica is a
very dangerous place
.
■
3
小马
10
月
27
日,特若·诺瓦号船抵达新西兰的惠灵顿。当斯科特走下船时,一位报社记者
迎面走来。
“斯科特队长!斯科特队长!我能与你谈谈吗?”他说。
斯科特停下来,面带微笑。
“行,当然可以!
”他说,
“你想知道什么?
”
“你们会是赢家吗?”那人问。
“赢家?”斯科特问,
“什么赢家?”
“当然是赢得前往南极的竞赛。<
/p>
”报社记者说。
“现在这个竞赛在你与阿蒙森之间展开。
瞧!
”他将一份报纸递给斯科特。斯科特看着报纸。报上是这样写的:<
/p>
弗雷门号正与斯科特争先到达南极
阿蒙森说:
“我们将赢得比赛!
p>
”
斯科特脸色变得苍白。
“给我报纸!
”他说。他
拿过报纸认真阅读。记者观察着他,期待
着。
“那么,斯科特队
长,
”他最终开口了,
“谁将赢得这场比赛?请告诉我!
”
斯科特愤怒地看着他。
“真是愚蠢!
”他说,
p>
“这不是比赛!我来这儿是为了了解南极。
我对阿蒙森对比赛都不感
兴趣!
”然后,他回到船上,手里拿着那张报纸。
当天晚些时候,他对同行人员讲起
这事,将报纸递给他们,并且大笑起来。
“没关系,
”他说,
“我们现今还在阿蒙森前面。我们不仅人数占优势,而且钱也更多。
他呢,除了
许多狗外,只有
8
个人。我熟悉狗性:它们在南极洲干不了活儿
。我们有
16
个
人,还配有新式机动雪
橇。这些雪橇比狗好使多了。明天,还有小马送来。我们需要小马、
机动雪橇以及身强力
壮的英国人!这些就够了。忘了那个阿蒙森!他并不重要!
”
斯科特分配奥茨喂养小马,
但不让他负责买马。在新西兰,奥茨一见到这些小马,
便大
为光火。这些小马大部分都已老态毕呈,有些还是病马。
“这些都是漂亮的小马,泰特斯,
”斯科特说,
“纯中国货,匹匹都极为出色!
< br>”
奥茨恼火地看着这些小马,没有说什么。随即他问:
“队长,它们的饲料在哪里?”<
/p>
“这儿!
”斯科特打开一道门。
奥茨朝里看了看,思索了一会儿。
“我们需要更多饲料,斯科特队长!这些小马将在地
球上最冷的
地区干活儿:它们需要许多饲料,远不止这些!
”
斯科特无声地笑了。
“这条船上,我们不可能带许多饲料,泰特斯。往哪放呢?没什么
关系,老兄
。你看见了,这些马十分壮实,是地球上最好的小马。
”
那天深夜,奥茨给他母亲写了封信
。信是这样写的:特若·诺瓦号船上现在有
19
匹小
马,
所有小马都养在船首的小舱里。
我们进餐的地方正好位于装运小马的船舱下面。
所以我
们的餐桌经常湿漉漉、脏兮兮的。我认为,斯科特犯了许多错误。
南极洲其实是非常
危险的
地方。
■
Chapter 4 Food Depots
The two
ships
,
Terra Nova and
fram
,
arrived in
Antarctica
,
in January
1911
,
at the end of
summer
.
The
Englishmen and the Norwegians wanted to stay on
the ice all winter
.
They
wanted to
be ready to go to the South
Pole at the beglnning of the next Antarctic
summer
.
The dogs pulled the
Norwegians'sledges
.
They ran
quickly over the snow and pulled the big
sledges from the ship onto the
ice
.
The men ran beside them
on skis
.
They
put
a
big
wooden
house
on
the
ice
.
The
house
was
full
of
food
,
and
skis
,
and
sledges
.
They
called
it
Framheim
.
Out-side
the
house
,
the
dogs
lived
in
holes
under
the
snow
.
When the
house was ready
,
the men made
their first journey south
.
Before the
winter
,
they wanted to take a
lot of food south
,
and leave
it in depots
.
For the long
journey
to
the
Pole
,
they
needed
a
lot
of
food
,
and
they
couldn't
carry
it
all
with
them
.
On
February
10th
,
five
men
,
three
sledges
,
eighteen
dogs
,
and half a tonne of
food left Framheim and
went
south
.
It was
easy
.
The weather was warm
for the Antarctic
,
be-tween
p>
—
7
°
Centi
grade and
—
17
°
Centigrade
.
The
snow
was
good
,
and
the
dogs
and
skis
went
fast
.
They
went
fifty
or
sixty
kilometres every
day
.
After four days they
reached 80
°
South
,
and made the first
depot
.
Amundsen
made
his
depot
very
carefully
.
It
was
very
im-
portant
to
find
it
again
,
next
summer
.
So he put
a big black flag on top
.
Then
he put ten flags to the east of the
depot
—
each
flag
half
a
kilometre
from
the
next
—
and
ten
flags
to
the
west
.
So
there
were
flags
for
five
kilometres to the left of the
depot
,
and five kilometres to
the right
.
Then they went back to
Framheim
,
and took some more
food south
,
this time to 82
p>
°
South
.
This time it
was harder
.
The temperature
was sometimes
-
40
°
Centigrade
,
and
there were
strong winds with a lot of
snow
.
The dogs and men were
very tired
,
and the tents and
boots were
bad
.
At
the second depot
,
they put
out sixty flags
,
to help them
find it again
.
They came back to Framheim
on March 23rd
.
It was nearly
winter in the
Antarctic
.
Their
ship Fram was far away
now
,
near South
America
.
They were alone on
the ice
.
* * * * *
Oates
went
with
Scott
to
make
the
first
British
depot
.
They
left
Cape
Evans
on
January
25th
.
There were
thirteen men
,
eight
ponies
,
and twenty-six
dogs
.
The dogs were faster
than the
ponies
—
they ran
quickly over the top of the
snow
,
but the ponies'feet
went through it
.
Every
morning the ponies started
first
,
and the dogs started
two hours later
,
because they
ran faster
.
At
night
,
the dogs
made warm holes under the
snow
,
but the ponies stood on
top of the snow
.
It was
-
20
°
Centigr
ade
.
After fifteen days Oates talked to
Scott
.
There was a strong
wind
,
and the two men's faces
were white with
snow
.
'Three of these ponies are
ill
,
Captain
,
'Oates said
.
'They
can't go on
.
'
'Don't be stupid
,
Oates
,
'Scott
answered
.
'They're good
strong animals
—
the best
ponies on
earth
.
'
'Not these
three
,
'Oates
said
.
'They're
ill
,
and
unhappy
,
and now they can't
walk
.
Let's kill
them
,
and leave
the meat here
,
in the
snow
.
We can eat
it
,
or the dogs
can
.
'
'Of course
not
!
'Scott said
angrily
.
'These ponies are
our friends
,
they work hard
for us
.
I don't
kill my friends
!
'
Three days
later
,
two of the ponies were
dead
.
Scott's
men
were
slower
than
Amundsen's
;
it
took
them
twenty-
four
days
to
get
to
80
°
South
.
They made a big depot
there
,
and put one large
black flag on top of it
.
Then
they went back
to Cape
Evans
.
Their camp was on an island
in the ice
,
and the sea ice
moved sometimes
.
There were
holes
in the
ice
,
and black sea water
under it
.
One day seven
ponies went through the ice into the
sea
,
and
died
.
One motor sledge also
went into the sea
.
■
4
食品贮藏屋
两艘船,特若·诺瓦号与弗雷门号
都抵达南极洲,时间为
1911
年
1<
/p>
月,夏末。英国人
与挪威人均想在这冰封的天地里度过整个冬天。
他们都想做好准备工作,
以求这儿第二年夏
天刚开始时能向南极进军。
群狗拉着挪威人的雪橇,
在雪地上高速奔跑,
< br>将从船上卸下来的大雪橇拉到了冰封世界。
众人踩着滑雪板滑行在一旁。
他们在冰封世界
上建起一座大木屋。
屋子里堆满了食品、
滑雪板以及雪橇。
p>
他们将这木
屋称作弗雷门海姆。
木屋外,群
狗住在雪下挖出的狗洞里。当木屋准备就绪时,他们开始了
首次南行征途。
在冬天来临之前,<
/p>
他们打算向南方运出许多食物,
并将食物放到各个贮藏屋里。
p>
因为在
奔赴南极的漫长旅程中,他们需要许多食物。他们不可能随身
带着所有的食物!
2
月
10
日,
5
个人、
3
辆雪橇、
18
条狗、以及半吨食物离开了弗雷门
海姆,向南而去。
事情进行得颇为顺利。此时的南极气候相对来说还算暖和,介于-
7
℃与-
17
℃之间。
雪
地质量不错,
狗与雪橇都跑得不慢,每天能走五六十公里。
4<
/p>
天之后,
他们到达南纬
80
°
的地方,建立了第一个贮藏屋。
阿蒙森非常精心地修建他的贮藏屋
。明年夏天需要再度找到它,这点特别重要。所以,
他在贮藏屋顶上插上一面黑旗。随后
他在贮藏屋的东边插上
10
面旗帜:每半公里插一面;
在贮藏屋西边也插上
10
面旗帜。所以,从贮藏
屋向左延伸
5
公里,见得着旗帜;向右延伸
5
公里,也看得见旗帜。
随后,他们返回弗雷门海姆,带上更多的食品后,再度南行。
这次抵达了南纬
82
°的
地方。
这次旅程辛苦
多了。温度有时低达-
40
℃。寒风凛冽,雪花漫天。人困狗乏
,帐篷与靴
子也不顶事了。在第二个贮藏屋附近,他们插了
60
面旗,目的是帮助他们能再次找到它。
他们再度回到弗雷门海姆时,已是
3
月
23
日。
这时南极时近冬天。他们的弗雷门号船
早已远驶而去,现在到了南美洲附近。只有他们孤
独地留在冰封的天地里。
* * * * *
奥茨跟随斯科特,前往修建第一座英国人的贮藏屋。他们于
1
月
25
日离开了开普埃文
斯
。一行
13
人、
8
匹小马、
26
条狗。这些狗比小马要快:它们能够在雪地上
快速地奔跑,
但是马腿却要陷进雪里。每天早晨,都是小马首先出发。
< br>2
小时后,狗儿们才上路,因为它
们奔跑速度快些。夜里
,
狗躲进挖在雪下面的温暖的洞里,但是小马只能站在雪地上,
承受
着-
20
℃的气温。
15
天后,奥茨向斯科特请示。当时强劲的寒风刮起,两人脸上都沾上一层白雪。
“队长,有
3
匹小马病了,
”奥茨说,
“走不动
了。
”
“别犯傻了,奥茨,
”斯科特回答说,
“它们都是强壮的好畜牲,地球上最好的小马。
”
“这
3<
/p>
匹不是,
”奥茨说,
“它们病歪歪的,无
精打采。现在它们根本无法走路。杀了它
们吧,将肉留在这儿的雪里。要么我们吃,要么
让狗吃。
”
“绝对不行!
”斯科特生气地说,<
/p>
“这些小马是我们的朋友,它们拼命地为我们干活儿。
我可不想杀
掉自己的朋友!
”
3
天后,其中有
2
匹小马死了。
斯科特的人比阿蒙森的人动作慢。他们花了
< br>24
天才抵达南纬
80
”地区。
他们在那儿修
建了一个大贮藏屋,在棚顶上插了一面大黑旗。然后,他们返回开普埃文斯
。
他们
的营地构筑在冰岛上,
海冰有时还会移动。
冰层中还有些空洞,
可以看到冰下的黑
色海水。一天,
7<
/p>
头小马从冰窟中掉进海里,死了。还有一辆机动雪橇也掉进了海里。
■
Chapter 5 A Long Cold Winter
It was dark for
four months
.
Outside the
wooden house at Framheim
,
it
was often
-
60
°
Centigrade
.
The dogs
lived in warm holes under the
snow
.
The men stayed in the
house
,
and
worked
in their rooms under the
snow
.
The skis and sledges came
from the best shops in
Norway
,
but Bjaaland wasn't
happy with
them
.
He changed a
lot of things on the skis and
sledges
.
Soon the sledges
were stronger than
before
.
The skis
were better and faster
,
too
p>
.
All
the
Norwegians
worked
hard
.
They
looked
after
their
dogs
,
and
worked
on
their
equipment
—
the sle
dges
,
skis
,
tents
.
Every day they
thought about their journey to the
Pole
,
and
talked
about it
.
And every
day
,
Amundsen thought about
Scott
.
One
day
,
in
midwinter
,
he talked
to his men
.
'Let's start
early
,
before
Scott
,
'Amundsen
said
.
'Remem-
ber
,
Scott has more men than
us
,
and he has motor sledges<
/p>
,
too
.
Pe
rhaps they can go faster than
us
.
'
Bjaaland
laughed
.
'Oh
no
,
they can't go faster than
me
,
'he
said
.
'On
snow
,
nothing can go
faster than a good man on
skis
.
'
'We don't
know
,
'Amundsen
said
.
'You're the best skier
in Norway
,
but you get
tired
,
and dogs
get tired
,
too
.
Motor sledges don't get
tired
.
They can go all day
and all night
.
'
Johansen laughed
angrily
.
'That's
stupid
,
'he
said
.
'Perhaps the motor
sledges can go all night
,
but
the Englishmen can't
.
The
English can't win
,
Roald
—
they don't understand
snow
,
but we
do
.
And they're
too slow
.
'
'Perhaps
,
'Amundsen said
.
'But I
want to win this race
.
So
we're going to start
early
!
Do you
understand
?
'
It was quiet
and warm inside
Framheim
.
Bjaaland looked at
Amundsen
,
and thought about
the long
,
cold
journey in front of him
.
He
thought about the dogs in their holes under the
snow
,
and listened to the
wind over the house
.
'When
,
Roald
?
'h
e said quietly
.
'On August
24th
.
The sun comes back on
that day
.
We start
then
.
'
'But we
can't
!
'Johansen
said
.
He looked
angry
,
and un-
happy
.
'That's too
early
!
We can't
start then
—
it's
danger-ous and stupid
!
'
Amundsen looked
at Johansen coldly
.
'You're
wrong
,
Jo-
hansen
,
'he
said
.
'We want to win
< br>,
remember
?
So
we start on August 24th
.
'
Bjaaland
listened to the winter wind
outside
.
* * * * *
In
Scott's
camp
,
at
Cape
Evans
,
no
one
talked
about
Amundsen
and
no
one
worked
hard
.
They had
good food
,
and they played
football on the snow
.
They
wrote a newspaper
—
The
south
Polar
Times
—
and
read
books
.
No
one
learnt
to
ski
,
no
one
worked
on
the
motor
sledges
.
Twice
,
men went for long jour-neys across the
snow
.
They
walked
,
and pulled the
sledges
themselves
.
Oates
stayed at Cape Evans and looked after his
ponies
.
Over the window in Cape
Evans
,
Scott put a map of
Antarc-tica
.
With a
pen
,
he made a line
from Cape Evans to the South
Pole
,
and he put a little
Britisn Flag at the
Pole
.
Under the
map
,
Scott wrote the day for
the start of their journey
.
We start on
November 3rd
,
he
wrote
.
■
5
漫长的寒冬
4
个月中不见天日,一片昏暗。在弗
雷门海姆木屋外面,气温低到-
60
℃。狗儿们生活
在温暖的雪洞里。众人则留在木屋里,在白雪覆盖下的房间里,忙着各自的活儿。
< br>
尽管滑雪板与雪橇都是从
挪威最好的商店内购买的,但是比阿兰德对这些设备并不满
意。于是,
< br>他在滑雪板与雪橇上换了许多部件。一会儿功夫雪橇变得结实多了。滑雪板变得
更
好使更快了。
< br>所有这些挪威人干活儿都很卖力。他们照顾狗群,改良设备:雪橇、滑雪板、帐篷。每
天,他们都想着远赴南极的旅程,谈论着这次旅程。每天,阿蒙森脑子里都装着斯科特。隆
< br>冬里的一天,他对众人说:
“我们早些走,赶在斯科特之前。
”阿蒙森说,
“别忘了,斯科特的人比我们多,他还有
机动雪橇。所以,他们可能比我们快。
”
p>
比阿兰德大笑起来。
“啊,不,他们不可能比我快,
”他说,
“在雪地上,没有任何东西
能快过优秀的滑雪
者。
”
“很难料定。
”阿蒙森说,
“你虽是挪
威最优秀的滑雪者,但是也有累乏的时候,狗也一
样。而机动雪橇则不会累,它能没日没
夜地跑个不停。
”
约翰森怒极而笑。
“真蠢,
”他说,
“也许机动雪橇可以整夜不停地跑,但是英国人不能
啊!英国人不可能赢,罗阿尔。他们不懂雪性,而我们懂。而且他们行进速度非常缓慢。< p>
”
“也许如此,
”阿蒙森说,
“无论如何我想赢得这次竞
赛,所以我们要早些出发!你们理
解吗?”
弗雷门海姆的房内宁静而温暖。<
/p>
比阿兰德看着阿蒙森,
思考起摆在面前漫长寒冷的旅程;
想着那些躲在雪洞里的狗儿们;
听着屋外的寒风。
“什么时候出发,
罗阿尔?”他轻声地问。
“
8
p>
月
24
日,从那天起就又要出太阳了。我们
就在那时出发。
”
“我们不能那时就出发!
”约翰森说
。他显得很生气,一脸不快。
“这太早了!我们不能
在那个时候
出发,那是危险又愚蠢的做法!
”
阿蒙森冷冷地看着约翰森。
“你错了
,约翰森,
”他说,
“别忘了,我们想取得胜利。所
以,我们的出发时间为
8
月
24
日。
”
比阿兰德聆听着窗外的寒风。
* * * * *
开普埃文斯,
斯科特的营地里,
p>
没有任何人谈论起阿蒙森的情况,
没有任何人在努力地
干活儿。
他们吃好东西,
在雪地上踢足球,
编了一份定名为
《南极时报》
的报纸,
翻阅书籍。
没有人学滑雪,
也没有人保养机动雪
橇。
这些人两度进行过横穿雪原的漫长旅程。
他们走路
不算,反而还得拉着雪橇走。奥茨留在开普埃文斯,喂养小马。
在开普埃文斯的窗户上,
斯科特挂着一张南极洲地图。
他在开普埃文斯与南极之间,
用
钢笔划了条线,
并将一面小小的英国国旗插在南极
上。
地图下面,
斯科特写下了他们的出发
日期。
我们于
11
月
3
日出发,他写道。
■
Chapter 6 A Bad Start
On August
23rd
,
the Norwegians'sledges
were ready
.
They took them
outside
,
and the dogs
pulled
them
across
me
ice
.
The
sun
came
up
for
half
an
hour
,
but
it
was
too
cold
:-
46
°
Centigrade
.
They
could not travel in that
weather
.
They went back to
Framheim and waited
.
They
waited
two
weeks
,
until
September
8th
.
Then
,
with
the
temperature
a
t
-
37
°
C
entigrade
,
they
started
.
They
ran
happily
across
the
snow
to
the
south
—
eight
men
,
seven
sledges
,
and
eighty-six dogs
.
Only
Lindstrom
,
the
cook
,
stayed behind in
Framheim
.
At
first
everything
went
well
.
They
went
twenty-eight
kilo-metres
on
Saturday
,
and
twenty-eight kilometres on
Sunday
.
It was easy
.
Then
,
on
Monday
,
the temperature went
down
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
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