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四大名锦四大名绣英文介绍

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2021-02-06 03:35
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2021年2月6日发(作者:done是什么意思)


壮锦




Zhuang Jin


壮锦是广西壮族自治区传统的著名丝织物,产生于宋代,在宋代,壮族称为


僮族,


故壮锦又称僮锦。


以棉纱股线或麻纱 股线为经、


桑蚕丝为纬的色织提花织


物,也有采用染色桑蚕丝为 经、染色有光人造丝或金


(



)


皮作纬织造。采用两组


经线和四组纬线在缎纹组织地纹上提织各色纬花 ,


形成对称花纹,


或用多种彩纬


线挑出 花纹。


壮锦的花纹图案接近剪纸图案,


变化千姿百态。


传统的花纹图案有


花、鸟、鱼、虫、兽以及“万”字、“双喜”等文字图 案、线条粗壮有力,色彩


艳丽,常用几种不同颜色的丝线织成,色彩以红、绿、黑、黄为 主,一般多以红


色为背景,色彩斑斓,绚丽多姿,对比强烈,具有浓艳粗犷的艺术风格。 品种繁


多,按服装和服饰用途,可分为花边绸、腰带绸、头巾、围巾、被面、台布、背< /p>


带、背包、坐垫、围裙、床毯、壁挂巾、锦屏等等



Guangxi


Zhuang


Jin


is


a


famous


traditional


silk


fabric


produced


in


the


Song


Dynasty.


In


Song


Dynasty,


the


Zhuang


nationality


called


Tongzu,brocade


is


also


known as Tong Jin Zhuang Jin. Cotton yarn strand or strands of yarn as the warp and


weft yarn-dyed silk jacquard fabric, there is also dyed silk as the warp and dyed bright


rayon or gold (silver) leather for weft weaving. Using two sets of warp and weft in


four places on satin weave colored weft weave pattern to mention flowers, forming a


symmetrical


pattern,


or


with


a


variety


of


color


weft


pick


out


patterns.


Zhuang


Jin


motifs close to paper-cut patterns, changes in mix. The traditional patterns of flowers,


birds, fish, insects, animals, and


patterns,


lines


thick


and


powerful,


colorful,


often


in


several


different


colors


woven


silk,


the


color


red,


green,


black,


yellow-based,


and


more


generally


with


a


red


background,


colorful,


colorful,


contrasting


with


a


rich


ruby


rough


art


style.


Variety,


according to clothing and apparel uses, can be divided into silk lace, silk belts, scarves,


scarves,


quilt


cover,


table


cloth,


straps,


backpacks,


cushions,


aprons,


Chuangtan,


hanging towels, Jinping, etc.


壮锦的起源与传说



壮锦是广西壮族地 区一项最具代表性的民族手工艺品,


也是中国四大名锦之


一,主 要产地为广西靖西、忻城、宾阳等县。忻城县土司博物馆工作人员告诉我


们,

< p>
相传,


有一位叫达尼妹的壮族姑娘,


看到蜘蛛网上 的露珠在阳光照耀下闪烁


着异彩,从中得到启示,便用五光十色的丝线为纬,原色细纱为 经,精心纺织而


成——从此就产生了瑰丽的壮锦。


< p>
考古证实,早在汉代广西已有织锦技艺。据《唐六曲》和《元和郡县志》记


载:


当时壮族人民所织出的多种布料,


已被封建王朝列为贡品。


但真正能够称为


“锦”的纺织品则出现于宋代。这一时期,壮族 的纺织业进一步发展,除普通的


布帛以外,


还出现了丝、


麻、


丝棉交织的锦。宋代


“白质方纹,


佳丽厚重”


的布,


就是早期的壮锦。到了明代 ,壮锦越来越流行,工艺也越来越精湛。明代万历年


间,织有龙、凤等花纹图案的壮锦已 成为朝廷的贡品。明清时期,壮锦已发展到


用多种色彩的绒线编织,

使壮锦呈现出绚丽的色彩,


虽仍为皇室贡品,


但平民百


姓亦可享用。



Guangxi


Zhuang


Autonomous


Region


Zhuang


Jin


is


one


of


the


most


representative of ethnic arts and crafts, but also one of the four famous Jin China, the


main


origin


of


Jingxi,


Xincheng,


Binyang


County.


Xincheng


County


Chieftain


museum staff told us that, according to legend, there is a girl named Dani Zhuang girl,


saw the spider web of dew in the sunshine shining splendor, get inspiration, they use


colorful silk as weft yarn colors for the classics, well-made textiles - since it produced


a magnificent brocade.


Archaeological


confirmed as


early


as


the Han Dynasty in


Guangxi


has


brocade


technique. According to the


time of the Zhuang people weave a variety of fabrics, have been feudal dynasty as a


tribute. But really can be called


this


period,


the


Zhuang


further


development


of


the


textile


industry,


in


addition


to


ordinary


cloth,


also


appeared


in


silk,


linen,


silk


brocade


interwoven.


Song



matter Fang Wen, Belle heavy,


Zhuang


Jin


increasingly


popular,


more


and


more


exquisite


craft.


Ming


Dynasty,


woven


with


dragon,


phoenix


and


other


patterns


of


Zhuang


Jin


has


become


the


imperial tribute. Ming and Qing Dynasties, Zhuang Jin has been developed to use a


variety of colors of wool knit, so Zhuang Jin showing brilliant colors, though still as a


royal tribute, but civilians also enjoy.


壮锦的花式及用途



传 统的壮锦以棉、


麻线作地经、


地纬平纹交织,

< br>用粗而无拈的真丝作彩纬织


入起花,在织物正反面形成对称花纹,并将地组织完全 覆盖,增加织物厚度。其


色彩对比强烈,


纹样多为菱形几何图案 ,


结构严谨而富于变化,


具有浓艳粗犷的


艺术风格。


用于制做被面、


褥面、


背 带心、


背包、


挂包、


围裙等。


壮锦图案生动,


结构严谨,色彩斑斓,常见的花纹有大万字、小万字,以 及较复杂的双凤朝阳、


凤栖牡丹、狮子滚球等。《广西通志》载:“壮锦各州县出,壮人 爱彩,凡衣裙


巾被之属莫不取五色绒,杂以织布为花鸟状,远观颇工巧炫丽,近视而粗, 壮人


贵之。”



Traditional


Zhuang


Jin


cotton,


twine


for


ground


warp,


weft


plain


ground


interwoven with thick silk twist without weft weaving for color from the flowers, the


front


and


back


of


the


fabric


form


a


symmetrical


pattern


and


organized


completely


covered,


increasing


the


thickness


of


the


fabric .


Its


strong


color


contrast,


diamond


patterns,


mostly


geometric


patterns,


structured


and


varied,


with


a


gaudy


rough


art


style. Used to make the quilt, mattress surface, strap heart, backpack, bag, apron, etc.


Zhuang


brocade


pattern


vivid,


well-structured,


colorful,


common


patterns


have


big


words, small words, and more complex Shuangfeng sun, Fengqi peony, lions bowls.



did not dare to take the case of colored dress Towel velvet, mixed with weaving as a


bird-like,


quite


a


distance,


Handicraft


dazzling,


myopia


and


thick,


strong


Takayuki


people.


壮锦原料及制作工艺





壮锦所用的原料主要是蚕丝和棉纱,靠工生产。



丝绒:从种桑养蚕,到拣、夹、纺、漂、染,均由织锦者自己完成。



棉纱:从种棉到纺纱,经过去籽、弹花、纺、染、浆等工序。



染料:利用当地植物和有色土来进行。红色用土朱、胭脂花、苏木,黄色用


黄泥、姜黄,蓝色用蓝靛,绿色用树皮、绿草,灰色则用黑土、草灰。用土料搭


配可染出多种颜色。



壮锦的织机是百年前就已经定型,


再经过不断改变的小木机。


结构简单,


机< /p>


织轻便,易于操作,使用方便但是效率颇低。全机由机身、装纱、提纱、提花和

< p>
打花五部分组成。机身包括机床、机架、坐板。装纱包括卷经纱机头、纱笼、布

头轴、绑腰、压纱棒。提纱包括纱踩脚、纱吊手、小综线。提花包括花踩脚、花


吊手 、花笼、编花竹、大综线、综线梁、重锤。打花包括筘、挑花尺、筒、绒梭、


纱梭。



Zhuang Jin main raw material used in silk and cotton, produced by workers.


Velvet:


from


sericulture,


to


pick,


clip,


spinning,


bleaching,


dyeing,


tapestry


by


themselves complete.


Cotton: from cotton production to spinning, after seeded, spent shells, spinning,


dyeing, pulp and other processes.


Dye: the use of local plants and colored earth to carry out. Red with soil Zhu,


rouge flower, hematoxylin, yellow with Wong, turmeric, blue with indigo, green bark,


green, gray then use black soil, kelp. Mix with soil material can be dyed a variety of


colors.


Zhuang


Jin


loom


was


a


hundred


years


ago


has


been


finalized,


and


then


after


changing


wooden


machine.


Simple


structure,


woven,


lightweight,


easy


to


operate,


easy to use but the efficiency is quite low. The whole machine from the fuselage, Yarn,


mention yarn, jacquard and playing spend five parts. Body, including machine tools,


racks, sitting board. Mounted volumes warp yarns including head, sarong cloth head


shaft, tie waist, yarn pressing rods. Mention yarns include yarns step on the foot, yarn


hanging


hand,


small


mechanized


line.


Jacquard


including


flower


step


on


the


foot,


hand


hanging


flower,


flower


basket,


flowers


and


bamboo


knitting,


big


heald,


heald


beams, heavy hammer. A flower include reed, cross-stitch foot, barrel, down shuttle,


shuttle yarn.



壮锦 的编织是一门枯燥而复杂的工艺,


虽然它对操作者的文化素质并没有太

< br>大的要求,


然而每天数万次机械的动作确实是对织锦人极大的考验。


织锦时,



人按照设计好的图案,

< br>用挑花尺将花纹挑出,


再用一条条编花竹和大综线编排在


花笼上。织造时,就按照花笼上的编花竹一条一条地逐次转移,通过综线牵引,


来回往复 ,


便会织出美丽的壮锦,


在明清时期壮锦一直作为地方向朝廷进 贡的贡


品而扬名全国,


所以壮锦在历史上便与南京的云锦、


成都的蜀锦、


苏州的宋锦一


起并称为中国古 代的四大名锦,也是四大名锦中唯一的一个少数民族锦。



Zhuang


brocade


weaving


is


a


tedious


and


complicated


process,


and


cultural


qualities of the operator, although it does not require much, but tens of thousands of


times


a


day


mechanical


movement


is


indeed


a


great


test


for


human


tapestry.


When


tapestry artist- designed pattern in accordance with a cross-stitch pattern ruler will pick,


and


then


compiled


on


a


section


of


bamboo


and


flowers


in


the


flower


arrangement


heald


large


cage.


When


weaving,


knitting


in


accordance


with


flowers


and


bamboo


flower


basket


on


a


one


to


successively


transferred


through


comprehensive


line


traction, back and forth, will weave a beautiful brocade, Zhuang Jin has been in the


direction of the court as a tribute to the Ming and Qing Dynasties and tributes famous


in


the


country,


so


they


Zhuang


Jin


in


the


history


of


Nanjing


Yunjin,


Chengdu


Shu


Brocade, Suzhou Song Jin together and called Chinese four famous ancient brocade,


is the only one of the four famous Jin which is weaved by a minority.



壮锦精巧的编织工艺,


绚丽和谐的色彩搭配和内涵丰富深刻的图案,

< p>
是壮族


妇女心灵手巧和富于创造的结晶,


凝聚着壮 族妇女的聪明智慧和深厚情感,


铭刻


着壮族历史发展的印记,储 存着壮民族丰富独特的文化信息与历史记忆。




Zhuang


brocade


weaving


delicate,


gorgeous


harmony


and


content-rich


deep


color


with


pattern,


is


the


crystallization


of


Zhuang


women



s


creative


and


ingenuity.



It is embodied Zhuang women's wisdom and deep emotion, engraved with the imprint


of


the


historical


development


of


the


Zhuang,


storing


the


Zhuang


ethnic


rich


and


unique cultural information and historical memory.



云锦




Yun Jin


“云锦”


是南京传统 提花丝织物的总称,


其历史可追溯到宋朝在南京设立的


官营织造 ——锦署,开始织锦,以其华贵,多彩灿烂,变换如云霞而得名。



Nanjing



is


a


general


term


for


a


traditional


jacquard


silk


fabric,


its


history


can


be


traced


back


to


the


Song


Dynasty


official


camps


set


up


in


Nanjing


Weaving - Jin Department, began tapestry, with its luxurious, colorful and splendid,


transform, such as clouds named.


云锦在明清时代非常流行,专为宫廷织造,主要用 作“御用供品”,供宫廷


服饰和赏赐用。


直至晚清以后才流传至 民间。


因现代只有南京一地生产,


故通常


称为“南京云锦”。



Yunjin


very


popular


in


the


Ming


and


Qing


Dynasties,


specially


woven


for


the


court, mainly for


late Qing Dynasty until after spread to the public. Only one place in Nanjing due to


modern production, it is usually referred to as


云锦的传统工艺主要有“妆花”、“ 织金”和“金宝地”等。妆花锦用色变


化丰富,一种织物上的花纹配色多达十余种,最多 可达


20



30


种,图案的布局


严谨庄重,


简练概括。


织金锦的花纹图案全部用金线或银线,


或金银线并用织成。


金 宝地锦的花纹图案全部用金丝织满地,


再在金地上织出五彩缤纷、


金彩辉映的


花纹。


现代织锦在传统品种的基础上开发成功,< /p>


既保持云锦的传统风格,


又适应


现代生活 需要的新品种,如雨花锦,敦煌锦、金银妆、菱锦等。总的来说,云锦


的花纹图案布局严 谨庄重,


变化概括强,


用色浓艳对比性也强,

< br>又常以片金勾边,


白色相间并以色晕过渡,图案具有浓厚朴质的传统风格,色彩华 丽,别具一格。


图案的题材广泛,既有大朵缠枝花卉,又有各种动物

(


如龙凤、仙鹤、狮子等


)



植物


(


如宝相花、莲花、佛手、石榴、梅、 兰、竹、菊等


)


,还有表示吉祥的“八


宝”、“暗八仙”、“吉祥”、“寿”字、“卍”字,瑞草以及各种姿态的变换


云势


(


如七巧云、如意云、和合云、叶云、行云、卧云、大小钩云等


)


,栩栩如生,


如见真情实景,

< p>
尤其是在纹样中所用的手法更是微妙绝伦,


能充分体现宾主呼应,


呼之欲出,而且花纹层次分明,花清地白、锦空匀齐。在配色方面,则运用了色

< br>晕与调和的技法,使纹样色彩美丽动人。云锦主要用于制作蒙、藏、满等少数民


族 的服装和服饰材料以及高级服装,


在古代则主要运用于缝制龙袍、


装饰宫殿和


庙宇以及神袍、祭垫、帷幕等。



Yun


Jin


traditional


crafts


are


mainly



flower



gold


an d



pattern on the


fabric up


to


a dozen species, up to 20 to


30 kinds of layout


patterns


rigorous dignified, concise summary. Gold brocade woven with motifs woven into all


gold


or silver thread, or gold


and silver. Campbell creeper motifs with


gold


silk all


over


the


floor,


and


then


in


gold


on


the


ground


weaving


a


colorful,


Jincai


Hui


Ying


patterns.


Modern


tapestry


in


traditional


varieties


developed


on


the


basis


of


success,


while maintaining the traditional style of brocade, and the need to adapt to the new


breed of modern life, such as Yu Hua Jin, Dunhuang brocade, gold and silver makeup,


Ling


Jin


and


so


on.


Overall,


brocade


motifs


precise


layout


solemn,


changes


summarized


strong,


rich


and


gaudy


colors


contrast


is


also


strong,


and


often


with


pieces of gold Crochet, white and white and in color halo transition, primitive pattern


has a strong tradition of style, color gorgeous, unique. Pattern wide range of subjects,


both large flowers floral scrolls, there are a variety of animals (such as dragon, crane,


lion, etc.) and plants (such as Po-phase flowers, lotus flower, bergamot, pomegranate,


plum, orchid, bamboo, chrysanthemum, etc.) there represent auspicious


Sin




chara cter,



word,


Seocho


and


various


gestures


transform cloud potential (eg Qiqiao cloud, wishful cloud, hehe clouds, leaves cloud,


clouds,


lying


cloud,


the


size


of


the


hook


clouds,


etc.),


lifelike,


such


as


see


the


real


truth, especially in the patterns used in


the way


it is


subtle and


exquisite, can fully


reflect the host and the guest echoes, contrast, and pattern structured, flower clear to


white, Kam empty uniform homogeneous. In terms of color, the use of colored halo


and


harmonic


techniques,


so


beautiful


color


patterns.


Yunjin


mainly


used


for


the


production of Mongolian, Tibetan, full of clothing and apparel materials and advanced


clothing and other ethnic minorities, mainly used in ancient sewing robes, decorated


palaces and temples and gods gowns, offering mats, curtains, etc.



宋锦




Song Jin


是中国传统丝织物之一,

< br>为纯桑蚕丝或桑蚕丝经线和有光粘胶丝彩纬色织彩


纬显花的锦类丝织物。宋锦主产 地在苏州,有桑蚕丝纯织,也有经丝用桑蚕丝、


纬丝用有光粘胶丝,

多以斜纹或平纹作地制织纬起花花纹。


宋锦采用的经丝一般


有两组,均为色丝;纬丝有两到三组,也均为色丝。花纹图案一般采用在圆形、


多边形几 何图案中添人传统的吉祥动物、装饰花朵、文字等。织物结构精细,古


色古香,淳朴雅典 ,华丽端庄,光泽柔和,绸面平挺,富有民族特色。主要用作


名贵字画、高级书籍的封面 装饰,也可用于服装面料。



Song Jin is one of the traditional Chinese silk fabrics, pure silk or silk warp and


weft yarn dyed bright colored viscose weft flowering Jin Choi class silk fabrics. Song


Jin main origin in Suzhou, there is woven pure silk, but also with a silk warp and weft


yarns with


bright


viscose rayon,


and more to


make twill or plain weave weft made


from the flowers to the pattern. Song Jin-employed generally have two sets of warp

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