-
壮锦
Zhuang
Jin
壮锦是广西壮族自治区传统的著名丝织物,产生于宋代,在宋代,壮族称为
p>
僮族,
故壮锦又称僮锦。
以棉纱股线或麻纱
股线为经、
桑蚕丝为纬的色织提花织
物,也有采用染色桑蚕丝为
经、染色有光人造丝或金
(
银
)
皮作纬织造。采用两组
经线和四组纬线在缎纹组织地纹上提织各色纬花
,
形成对称花纹,
或用多种彩纬
线挑出
花纹。
壮锦的花纹图案接近剪纸图案,
变化千姿百态。
传统的花纹图案有
花、鸟、鱼、虫、兽以及“万”字、“双喜”等文字图
案、线条粗壮有力,色彩
艳丽,常用几种不同颜色的丝线织成,色彩以红、绿、黑、黄为
主,一般多以红
色为背景,色彩斑斓,绚丽多姿,对比强烈,具有浓艳粗犷的艺术风格。
品种繁
多,按服装和服饰用途,可分为花边绸、腰带绸、头巾、围巾、被面、台布、背<
/p>
带、背包、坐垫、围裙、床毯、壁挂巾、锦屏等等
Guangxi
Zhuang
Jin
is
a
famous
traditional
silk
fabric
produced
in
the
Song
Dynasty.
In
Song
Dynasty,
the
Zhuang
nationality
called
Tongzu,brocade
is
also
known as
Tong Jin Zhuang Jin. Cotton yarn strand or strands
of yarn as the warp and
weft yarn-dyed
silk jacquard fabric, there is also dyed silk as
the warp and dyed bright
rayon or gold
(silver) leather for weft weaving. Using two sets
of warp and weft in
four places on
satin weave colored weft weave pattern to mention
flowers, forming a
symmetrical
pattern,
or
with
a
variety
of
color
weft
pick
out
patterns.
Zhuang
Jin
motifs
close to paper-cut patterns, changes in mix. The
traditional patterns of flowers,
birds,
fish, insects, animals, and
patterns,
lines
thick
and
powerful,
colorful,
often
in
several
different
colors
woven
silk,
the
color
red,
green,
black,
yellow-based,
and
more
generally
with
a
red
background,
colorful,
colorful,
contrasting
with
a
rich
ruby
rough
art
style.
Variety,
according to
clothing and apparel uses, can be divided into
silk lace, silk belts, scarves,
scarves,
quilt
cover,
table
cloth,
straps,
backpacks,
cushions,
aprons,
Chuangtan,
hanging towels, Jinping, etc.
壮锦的起源与传说
壮锦是广西壮族地
区一项最具代表性的民族手工艺品,
也是中国四大名锦之
一,主
要产地为广西靖西、忻城、宾阳等县。忻城县土司博物馆工作人员告诉我
们,
相传,
有一位叫达尼妹的壮族姑娘,
看到蜘蛛网上
的露珠在阳光照耀下闪烁
着异彩,从中得到启示,便用五光十色的丝线为纬,原色细纱为
经,精心纺织而
成——从此就产生了瑰丽的壮锦。
考古证实,早在汉代广西已有织锦技艺。据《唐六曲》和《元和郡县志》记
载:
当时壮族人民所织出的多种布料,
已被封建王朝列为贡品。
但真正能够称为
“锦”的纺织品则出现于宋代。这一时期,壮族
的纺织业进一步发展,除普通的
布帛以外,
还出现了丝、
麻、
丝棉交织的锦。宋代
“白质方纹,
佳丽厚重”
的布,
就是早期的壮锦。到了明代
,壮锦越来越流行,工艺也越来越精湛。明代万历年
间,织有龙、凤等花纹图案的壮锦已
成为朝廷的贡品。明清时期,壮锦已发展到
用多种色彩的绒线编织,
使壮锦呈现出绚丽的色彩,
虽仍为皇室贡品,
但平民百
p>
姓亦可享用。
Guangxi
Zhuang
Autonomous
Region
Zhuang
Jin
is
one
of
the
most
representative of ethnic arts and
crafts, but also one of the four famous Jin China,
the
main
origin
of
Jingxi,
Xincheng,
Binyang
County.
Xincheng
County
Chieftain
museum staff told us that, according to
legend, there is a girl named Dani Zhuang girl,
saw the spider web of dew in the
sunshine shining splendor, get inspiration, they
use
colorful silk as weft yarn colors
for the classics, well-made textiles - since it
produced
a magnificent brocade.
Archaeological
confirmed as
early
as
the Han
Dynasty in
Guangxi
has
brocade
technique. According
to the
time of the Zhuang people weave
a variety of fabrics, have been feudal dynasty as
a
tribute. But really can be called
this
period,
the
Zhuang
further
development
of
the
textile
industry,
in
addition
to
ordinary
cloth,
also
appeared
in
silk,
linen,
silk
brocade
interwoven.
Song
matter Fang
Wen, Belle heavy,
Zhuang
Jin
increasingly
popular,
more
and
more
exquisite
craft.
Ming
Dynasty,
woven
with
dragon,
phoenix
and
other
patterns
of
Zhuang
Jin
has
become
the
imperial tribute. Ming and Qing
Dynasties, Zhuang Jin has been developed to use a
variety of colors of wool knit, so
Zhuang Jin showing brilliant colors, though still
as a
royal tribute, but civilians also
enjoy.
壮锦的花式及用途
传
统的壮锦以棉、
麻线作地经、
地纬平纹交织,
< br>用粗而无拈的真丝作彩纬织
入起花,在织物正反面形成对称花纹,并将地组织完全
覆盖,增加织物厚度。其
色彩对比强烈,
纹样多为菱形几何图案
,
结构严谨而富于变化,
具有浓艳粗犷的
艺术风格。
用于制做被面、
褥面、
背
带心、
背包、
挂包、
围裙等。
壮锦图案生动,
结构严谨,色彩斑斓,常见的花纹有大万字、小万字,以
及较复杂的双凤朝阳、
凤栖牡丹、狮子滚球等。《广西通志》载:“壮锦各州县出,壮人
爱彩,凡衣裙
巾被之属莫不取五色绒,杂以织布为花鸟状,远观颇工巧炫丽,近视而粗,
壮人
贵之。”
Traditional
Zhuang
Jin
cotton,
twine
for
ground
warp,
weft
plain
ground
interwoven with thick silk twist
without weft weaving for color from the flowers,
the
front
and
back
of
the
fabric
form
a
symmetrical
pattern
and
organized
completely
covered,
increasing
the
thickness
of
the
fabric .
Its
strong
color
contrast,
diamond
patterns,
mostly
geometric
patterns,
structured
and
varied,
with
a
gaudy
rough
art
style. Used to make the quilt, mattress
surface, strap heart, backpack, bag, apron, etc.
Zhuang
brocade
pattern
vivid,
well-structured,
colorful,
common
patterns
have
big
words,
small words, and more complex Shuangfeng sun,
Fengqi peony, lions bowls.
did not dare to take the
case of colored dress Towel velvet, mixed with
weaving as a
bird-like,
quite
a
distance,
Handicraft
dazzling,
myopia
and
thick,
strong
Takayuki
people.
壮锦原料及制作工艺
壮锦所用的原料主要是蚕丝和棉纱,靠工生产。
丝绒:从种桑养蚕,到拣、夹、纺、漂、染,均由织锦者自己完成。
棉纱:从种棉到纺纱,经过去籽、弹花、纺、染、浆等工序。
染料:利用当地植物和有色土来进行。红色用土朱、胭脂花、苏木,黄色用
黄泥、姜黄,蓝色用蓝靛,绿色用树皮、绿草,灰色则用黑土、草灰。用土料搭
配可染出多种颜色。
壮锦的织机是百年前就已经定型,
p>
再经过不断改变的小木机。
结构简单,
机<
/p>
织轻便,易于操作,使用方便但是效率颇低。全机由机身、装纱、提纱、提花和
打花五部分组成。机身包括机床、机架、坐板。装纱包括卷经纱机头、纱笼、布
头轴、绑腰、压纱棒。提纱包括纱踩脚、纱吊手、小综线。提花包括花踩脚、花
吊手
、花笼、编花竹、大综线、综线梁、重锤。打花包括筘、挑花尺、筒、绒梭、
纱梭。
p>
Zhuang Jin main raw material
used in silk and cotton, produced by workers.
Velvet:
from
sericulture,
to
pick,
clip,
spinning,
bleaching,
dyeing,
tapestry
by
themselves complete.
Cotton: from cotton production to
spinning, after seeded, spent shells, spinning,
dyeing, pulp and other processes.
Dye: the use of local plants and
colored earth to carry out. Red with soil Zhu,
rouge flower, hematoxylin, yellow with
Wong, turmeric, blue with indigo, green bark,
green, gray then use black soil, kelp.
Mix with soil material can be dyed a variety of
colors.
Zhuang
Jin
loom
was
a
hundred
years
ago
has
been
finalized,
and
then
after
changing
wooden
machine.
Simple
structure,
woven,
lightweight,
easy
to
operate,
easy
to use but the efficiency is quite low. The whole
machine from the fuselage, Yarn,
mention yarn, jacquard and playing
spend five parts. Body, including machine tools,
racks, sitting board. Mounted volumes
warp yarns including head, sarong cloth head
shaft, tie waist, yarn pressing rods.
Mention yarns include yarns step on the foot, yarn
hanging
hand,
small
mechanized
line.
Jacquard
including
flower
step
on
the
foot,
hand
hanging
flower,
flower
basket,
flowers
and
bamboo
knitting,
big
heald,
heald
beams, heavy hammer. A flower include
reed, cross-stitch foot, barrel, down shuttle,
shuttle yarn.
壮锦
的编织是一门枯燥而复杂的工艺,
虽然它对操作者的文化素质并没有太
< br>大的要求,
然而每天数万次机械的动作确实是对织锦人极大的考验。
织锦时,
艺
人按照设计好的图案,
< br>用挑花尺将花纹挑出,
再用一条条编花竹和大综线编排在
花笼上。织造时,就按照花笼上的编花竹一条一条地逐次转移,通过综线牵引,
来回往复
,
便会织出美丽的壮锦,
在明清时期壮锦一直作为地方向朝廷进
贡的贡
品而扬名全国,
所以壮锦在历史上便与南京的云锦、
p>
成都的蜀锦、
苏州的宋锦一
起并称为中国古
代的四大名锦,也是四大名锦中唯一的一个少数民族锦。
Zhuang
brocade
weaving
is
a
tedious
and
complicated
process,
and
cultural
qualities of the operator, although it
does not require much, but tens of thousands of
times
a
day
mechanical
movement
is
indeed
a
great
test
for
human
tapestry.
When
tapestry artist-
designed pattern in accordance with a cross-stitch
pattern ruler will pick,
and
then
compiled
on
a
section
of
bamboo
and
flowers
in
the
flower
arrangement
heald
large
cage.
When
weaving,
knitting
in
accordance
with
flowers
and
bamboo
flower
basket
on
a
one
to
successively
transferred
through
comprehensive
line
traction, back and
forth, will weave a beautiful brocade, Zhuang Jin
has been in the
direction of the court
as a tribute to the Ming and Qing Dynasties and
tributes famous
in
the
country,
so
they
Zhuang
Jin
in
the
history
of
Nanjing
Yunjin,
Chengdu
Shu
Brocade, Suzhou Song Jin together and
called Chinese four famous ancient brocade,
is the only one of the four famous Jin
which is weaved by a minority.
壮锦精巧的编织工艺,
绚丽和谐的色彩搭配和内涵丰富深刻的图案,
是壮族
妇女心灵手巧和富于创造的结晶,
凝聚着壮
族妇女的聪明智慧和深厚情感,
铭刻
着壮族历史发展的印记,储
存着壮民族丰富独特的文化信息与历史记忆。
Zhuang
brocade
weaving
delicate,
gorgeous
harmony
and
content-rich
deep
color
with
pattern,
is
the
crystallization
of
Zhuang
women
’
s
creative
and
ingenuity.
It is
embodied Zhuang women's wisdom and deep emotion,
engraved with the imprint
of
the
historical
development
of
the
Zhuang,
storing
the
Zhuang
ethnic
rich
and
unique
cultural information and historical memory.
云锦
Yun Jin
“云锦”
是南京传统
提花丝织物的总称,
其历史可追溯到宋朝在南京设立的
官营织造
——锦署,开始织锦,以其华贵,多彩灿烂,变换如云霞而得名。
Nanjing
is
a
general
term
for
a
traditional
jacquard
silk
fabric,
its
history
can
be
traced
back
to
the
Song
Dynasty
official
camps
set
up
in
Nanjing
Weaving - Jin
Department, began tapestry, with its luxurious,
colorful and splendid,
transform, such
as clouds named.
云锦在明清时代非常流行,专为宫廷织造,主要用
作“御用供品”,供宫廷
服饰和赏赐用。
直至晚清以后才流传至
民间。
因现代只有南京一地生产,
故通常
称为“南京云锦”。
Yunjin
very
popular
in
the
Ming
and
Qing
Dynasties,
specially
woven
for
the
court,
mainly for
late Qing Dynasty until
after spread to the public. Only one place in
Nanjing due to
modern production, it is
usually referred to as
云锦的传统工艺主要有“妆花”、“
织金”和“金宝地”等。妆花锦用色变
化丰富,一种织物上的花纹配色多达十余种,最多
可达
20
~
30
种,图案的布局
严谨庄重,
简练概括。
织金锦的花纹图案全部用金线或银线,
或金银线并用织成。
金
宝地锦的花纹图案全部用金丝织满地,
再在金地上织出五彩缤纷、
金彩辉映的
花纹。
现代织锦在传统品种的基础上开发成功,<
/p>
既保持云锦的传统风格,
又适应
现代生活
需要的新品种,如雨花锦,敦煌锦、金银妆、菱锦等。总的来说,云锦
的花纹图案布局严
谨庄重,
变化概括强,
用色浓艳对比性也强,
< br>又常以片金勾边,
白色相间并以色晕过渡,图案具有浓厚朴质的传统风格,色彩华
丽,别具一格。
图案的题材广泛,既有大朵缠枝花卉,又有各种动物
(
如龙凤、仙鹤、狮子等
)
和
p>
植物
(
如宝相花、莲花、佛手、石榴、梅、
兰、竹、菊等
)
,还有表示吉祥的“八
宝”、“暗八仙”、“吉祥”、“寿”字、“卍”字,瑞草以及各种姿态的变换
云势
p>
(
如七巧云、如意云、和合云、叶云、行云、卧云、大小钩云等
p>
)
,栩栩如生,
如见真情实景,
尤其是在纹样中所用的手法更是微妙绝伦,
能充分体现宾主呼应,
呼之欲出,而且花纹层次分明,花清地白、锦空匀齐。在配色方面,则运用了色
< br>晕与调和的技法,使纹样色彩美丽动人。云锦主要用于制作蒙、藏、满等少数民
族
的服装和服饰材料以及高级服装,
在古代则主要运用于缝制龙袍、
装饰宫殿和
庙宇以及神袍、祭垫、帷幕等。
Yun
Jin
traditional
crafts
are
mainly
flower
gold
an
d
pattern on the
fabric up
to
a
dozen species, up to 20 to
30 kinds of
layout
patterns
rigorous
dignified, concise summary. Gold brocade woven
with motifs woven into all
gold
or silver thread, or gold
and silver. Campbell creeper motifs
with
gold
silk all
over
the
floor,
and
then
in
gold
on
the
ground
weaving
a
colorful,
Jincai
Hui
Ying
patterns.
Modern
tapestry
in
traditional
varieties
developed
on
the
basis
of
success,
while maintaining the traditional style
of brocade, and the need to adapt to the new
breed of modern life, such as Yu Hua
Jin, Dunhuang brocade, gold and silver makeup,
Ling
Jin
and
so
on.
Overall,
brocade
motifs
precise
layout
solemn,
changes
summarized
strong,
rich
and
gaudy
colors
contrast
is
also
strong,
and
often
with
pieces of gold Crochet, white and white
and in color halo transition, primitive pattern
has a strong tradition of style, color
gorgeous, unique. Pattern wide range of subjects,
both large flowers floral scrolls,
there are a variety of animals (such as dragon,
crane,
lion, etc.) and plants (such as
Po-phase flowers, lotus flower, bergamot,
pomegranate,
plum, orchid, bamboo,
chrysanthemum, etc.) there represent auspicious
p>
Sin
chara
cter,
word,
Seocho
and
various
gestures
transform cloud potential (eg Qiqiao
cloud, wishful cloud, hehe clouds, leaves cloud,
clouds,
lying
cloud,
the
size
of
the
hook
clouds,
etc.),
lifelike,
such
as
see
the
real
truth, especially in the patterns used
in
the way
it is
subtle and
exquisite, can
fully
reflect the host and the guest
echoes, contrast, and pattern structured, flower
clear to
white, Kam empty uniform
homogeneous. In terms of color, the use of colored
halo
and
harmonic
techniques,
so
beautiful
color
patterns.
Yunjin
mainly
used
for
the
production of Mongolian,
Tibetan, full of clothing and apparel materials
and advanced
clothing and other ethnic
minorities, mainly used in ancient sewing robes,
decorated
palaces and temples and gods
gowns, offering mats, curtains, etc.
宋锦
Song Jin
是中国传统丝织物之一,
< br>为纯桑蚕丝或桑蚕丝经线和有光粘胶丝彩纬色织彩
纬显花的锦类丝织物。宋锦主产
地在苏州,有桑蚕丝纯织,也有经丝用桑蚕丝、
纬丝用有光粘胶丝,
多以斜纹或平纹作地制织纬起花花纹。
宋锦采用的经丝一般
有两组,均为色丝;纬丝有两到三组,也均为色丝。花纹图案一般采用在圆形、
多边形几
何图案中添人传统的吉祥动物、装饰花朵、文字等。织物结构精细,古
色古香,淳朴雅典
,华丽端庄,光泽柔和,绸面平挺,富有民族特色。主要用作
名贵字画、高级书籍的封面
装饰,也可用于服装面料。
Song Jin is one
of the traditional Chinese silk fabrics, pure silk
or silk warp and
weft yarn dyed bright
colored viscose weft flowering Jin Choi class silk
fabrics. Song
Jin main origin in
Suzhou, there is woven pure silk, but also with a
silk warp and weft
yarns with
bright
viscose rayon,
and more to
make twill or
plain weave weft made
from the flowers
to the pattern. Song Jin-employed generally have
two sets of warp
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