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This is the story
of a sturdy American symbol which
has
now spread throughout most of the world. The
symbol is not the dollar. It is not
even Coca-Cola.
It is a simple pair of
pants called blue jeans, and
what the
pants symbolize is what Alexis de
Tocqueville called “a manly and
legitimate passion
for equality…. Blue
jeans are favored equally by
bureaucrats and cowboys; bankers and
deadbeats;
fashion designers and beer
drinkers They draw no
distinctions and
recognize no classes; they are
merely
American 1 . Yet they are sought after
almost everywhere in the world ―
including Russia,
where authorities
recently broke up a teen-aged
gang that
was selling them on the black market for
two hundred dollars a pair. They have
been around
for a long time, and it
seems likely that they will
outlive
even the necktie.
[2] This ubiquitous
American symbol was the
invention of a
Bavarian-born Jew. His name was Levi
Strauss.
[3] He was born in
Bad Ocheim, Germany , in 1829,
and
during the European political turmoil of 1848
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decided to take his chances in New York
, to which
his two brothers already had
emigrated. Upon
arrival, Levi soon
found that his two brothers had
exaggerated their tales of an easy life
in the land
of the main chance. They
were landowners, they had
told him;
instead, he found them pushing needles,
thread, pots, pans ribbons, yarn,
scissors and
buttons to housewives. For
two years he was a lowly
peddler,
hauling some 180 pounds of sundries
door-
to-door to eke out a marginal
living. When a
married sister in San
Francisco offered to pay his
way West
in1850, he jumped at the opportunity,
taking with him bolts of canvas he
hoped to sell
for tenting.
[4] It was the wrong kind of canvas for
that
purpose, but while talking with a
miner down from
the mother lode, he
learned that pants ― sturdy
pants that
would stand up to the rigors of the
digging ― were almost impossible to
find.
Opportunity beckoned. On the
spot, Strauss measured
the man's girth
and inseam with a piece of string
and,
for six dollars in gold dust 2 , had [the
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canvas] tailored into a pair of stiff
but rugged
pants. The miner was
delighted with the result,
word got
around about “those pants of Levi's” and
Strauss was in business. The company
has been in
business ever
since.
[5]When Strauss ran
out of canvas, he wrote his two
brothers to send more. He received
instead a tough,
brown cotton cloth
made in Nimes, France ― called
serge de
Nimes and swiftly shortened to
“denim”(the word “jeans” derives from G
ê nes,
the French word for Genoa, where
a similar cloth
was produced). Almost
from the first, Strauss had
his cloth
dyed the distinctive indigo that gave
blue jeans their name 3 , but it was
not until the
1870s that he added the
copper rivets which have
long since
become a company trademark. The rivets
were the idea of a Virginia City,
Nevada , tailor,
Jacob W. Dacis, who
added them to pacify a mean-
tempered
miner called Alkali Ike. Alkali, the story
goes, complained that the pockets of
his jeans
always tore when he stuffed
them with ore samples
and demanded that
Davis do something about it. As a
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kind of
joke, Davis took the pants to a blacksmith
and had the packets riveted; once
again, the idea
worked so well that
word got around; in 1873
Strauss
appropriated 4 and p
atented the gimmick
―
and hired Davis as a regional
manager.
[6] By this time, Strauss had
taken both his
brothers and two
brothers-in-law into the company
and
was ready for his third San Francisco store.
Over the ensuing years the company
prospered
locally, and by the time of
his death in 1902,
Strauss has become a
man of prominence in
California . For
three decades thereafter the
business
remained profitable though small, with
sales largely confined to the working
people of the
West ― cowboys,
lumberjacks
, railroad workers, and
the like. Levi's jeans were first
introduced to the
East, apparently,
during the dude-ranch craze of
the
1930s, when vacationing Easters returned and
spread the word about the wonderful
pants with
rivets. Another boost came
in World War
Ⅱ
, when
blue jeans were declared and essential
commodity
and were sold only to people
engaged in defense
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work 5 . From a company
with fifteen salespeople,
two plants,
and almost no business east of the
Mississippi in 1946, the organization
grew in
thirty years to include a sales
force of more than
twenty-two thousand,
with fifty plants and offices
in
thirty-five countries. Each year, more than
250,000,000 items of Levi's clothing
are sold ―
including more than
83,000,000 pairs of riveted
blue jeans.
They have become, through marketing,
word of mouth, and demonstrable
reliability, the
common pants of
America . They can be purchased
pre-
washed, pre-faded, and pre-shrunk for the
suitably proletarian look. They adapt
themselves to
any sort of idiosyncratic
use; women slit them at
the inseams and
convert them into long skirts, men
chop
them off above the knees and turn them into
something to be worn while challenging
the surf.
Decorations and
ornamentations abound.
[7]The pants
have become a tradition, and along the
way have acquired a history of their
own ― so much
so that the company has
opened a museum in San
Francisco. There
was, for example 6 , the turn-of-
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