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This is the story of a sturdy American
symbol which has now spread throughout most of the
world. The symbol is not the
dollar
. It is not even Coca-Cola. It is
a simple pair of pants called
blue
jeans, and what the pants symbolize is what Alexis
de Tocquevi
lle called “a manly and
legitimate passion for equality…. Blue
jeans are favored equally by bureaucrats and
cowboys;
bankers and deadbeats; fashion
designers and beer drinkers They draw no
distinctions and
recognize
no
classes;
they
are
merely
American
1
.
Yet
they
are
sought
after
almost
everywhere in the
world ― including Russia, where authorities
recently broke up a teen
-aged
gang that was selling them on the black
market for two hundred dollars a pair
.
They have
been around for a long time,
and it seems likely that they will outlive even
the necktie.
[2] This ubiquitous
American symbol was the invention of a Bavarian-
born Jew. His name was
Levi Strauss.
[3] He was born in Bad Ocheim, Germany
, in 1829, and during the European political
turmoil
of 1848 decided to take his
chances in New York , to which his two brothers
already had
emigrated. Upon arrival,
Levi soon found that his two brothers had
exaggerated their tales of
an easy life
in the land of the main chance. They were
landowners, they had told him; instead,
he found them pushing needles, thread,
pots, pans ribbons, yarn, scissors and buttons to
housewives. For two years he was a
lowly peddler
, hauling some 180 pounds
of sundries
door-to-door to eke out a
marginal living. When a married sister in San
Francisco offered to
pay his way West
in1850, he jumped at the opportunity, taking with
him bolts of canvas he
hoped to sell
for tenting.
[4] It was the wrong kind
of canvas for that purpose, but while talking with
a miner down from
the mother lode, he
l
earned that pants ― sturdy pants that
would stand up to the rigors of the
digging
―
were
almost
impossible
to
find.
Opportunity
beckoned.
On
the
spot,
Strauss
measured the man's
girth and inseam with a piece of string and, for
six dollars in gold dust 2 ,
had [the
canvas] tailored into a pair of stiff but rugged
pants. The miner was delighted with
the
result, word got around about “those pants of
Levi's” and Strauss was in business. The
company has been in business ever
since.
[5]When Strauss ran out of
canvas, he wrote his two brothers to send more. He
received
instead a tough, brown cotton
cloth made in Nimes, France ― called serge de
Nimes and
swiftly shortened to
“denim”(the word “jeans” derives from G ê nes, the
French word for
Genoa, where a similar
cloth was produced). Almost from the first,
Strauss had his cloth dyed
the
distinctive indigo that gave blue jeans their name
3 , but it was not until the 1870s that
he added the copper rivets which have
long since become a company trademark. The rivets
were the idea of a Virginia City,
Nevada , tailor
, Jacob W. Dacis, who
added them to pacify a
mean-tempered
miner called Alkali Ike. Alkali, the story goes,
complained that the pockets of
his
jeans always tore when he stuffed them with ore
samples and demanded that Davis do
something about it. As a kind of joke,
Davis took the pants to a blacksmith and had the
packets riveted; once again, the idea
worked so well that word got around; in 1873
Strauss
appropriated 4 and patented the
gimmick ― and hired Davis as a
regional
manager
.
[6]
By
this
time,
Strauss
had
taken
both
his
brothers
and
two
brothers-
in-law
into
the
company
and
was
ready
for
his
third
San
Francisco
store.
Over
the
ensuing
years
the
company
prospered locally, and by the time of his death in
1902, Strauss has become a man
of
prominence in California . For three decades
thereafter the business remained profitable
though
small,
with
sales
largely
confined
to
the
working
people
of
the
West
―
cowboys,
lumberjacks, railroad workers, and the
like. Levi's jeans were first introduced to the
East,
apparently, during the dude-ranch
craze of the 1930s, when vacationing Easters
returned and
spread the word about the
wonderful pants with rivets. Another boost came in
World War
Ⅱ
,
when
blue
jeans
were
declared
and
essential
commodity
and
were
sold
only
to
people
engaged in defense work 5 . From a
company with fifteen salespeople, two plants, and
almost
no business east of the
Mississippi in 1946, the organization grew in
thirty years to include a
sales
force
of
more
than
twenty-two
thousand,
with
fifty
plants
and
offices
in
thirty-five
countries. Each
year
, more than 250,000,000 items of
Levi's clothing are sold ― including
more than 83,000,000 pairs of riveted
blue jeans. They have become, through marketing,
word of mouth, and demonstrable
reliability, the common pants of America . They
can be
purchased
pre-washed,
pre-faded,
and
pre-shrunk
for
the
suitably
proletarian
look.
They
adapt
themselves
to
any
sort
of
idiosyncratic
use;
women
slit
them
at
the
inseams
and
convert
them
into
long
skirts,
men
chop
them
off
above
the
knees
and
turn
them
into
something to be worn while challenging
the surf. Decorations and ornamentations abound.
[7]The pants have become a tradition,
and along the way have acquired a history of their
own ― so much so that the company has
opened a museum in San Francisco. There was, for
example 6 , the turn-of-the-century
trainman who replaced a faulty coupling with a
pair of
jeans; the Wyoming man who used
his jeans as a towrope to haul
his car
out of a ditch; the Californian who found several
pairs in an abandoned mine, wore
them,
then discovered they were sixty-three years old
and still as good as new and turned
them over to the Smithsonian as a
tribute to their toughness. And then there is the
particularly terrifying story of the
careless construction worker who dangled fifty-two
stories
above the street until rescued,
his sole support the Levi's belt loop through
which his rope
was hooked.
美国牛仔裤史话
卡琳
·
奎因
[1]
本文讲述的是美国的一个坚实的象征物,如今已经遍及
世界大部分地区。此物不是美元,甚至也不是
可口可乐,而只是一条称作蓝色牛仔裤的普
通裤子。这条裤子所象征的,如亚历克西
·
德托克维尔所言,是
“
对平等的果敢而正当的渴求
……”<
/p>
无论是官员还是牛仔,银行家还是赖帐徒,时装设计师还是嗜酒成性者,
< br>都同样青睐蓝色牛仔裤。这种裤子对人不分高低贵贱,只要是美国人都可以穿。不过,牛仔裤几乎在世界< /p>
各地都广受欢迎
——
其中包括俄罗斯,其
当局最近破获了一个在黑市上倒卖牛仔裤的青少年团伙,他们的
牛仔裤卖到
200
美元一条。牛仔裤已经流行了很长时间,
看来其生命力甚至可能超过领带。
[2]
< br>这个无所不在的美国象征是一个出生于巴伐利亚的犹太人发明的,它的名字叫李维
·
施特劳斯。
[3]
他于
1829
年出生于德国的巴德奥切姆,
1848
年欧洲政治动荡期间,决定去纽约碰碰运气,他的<
/p>
两个哥哥已经移民去了那里。到了纽约,李维很快就发现,两个哥哥关于在这片充满机遇的
土地上生活比
较安逸的说法实在有些言过其实。他们说自己拥有土地,可他发现他们在向
家庭主妇推销针线、锅罐、缎
带、
剪刀和钮扣。
李维做了两年寒酸的小贩,
拉着
180
来磅的杂货挨门挨户地叫卖,
勉强维持生计。
1850
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