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From
the
eastern
end
of
the
Great
Wall,
China’s
coast
spans
14500
kilometresand more than 5000 years of
history. This is the area which shows the
greatest
contrast
between
China's
past
and
its
future.
Today
China's
eastern
seaboards home to
700 million people, packed into some of
the most dazzling
hi-tech cities on
earth. Yet these crowded shores remain hugely
important for a
wealth of wildlife.
Now, as ancient traditions
mingle
with
new aspirations, is
there
any room at all for wildlife on
China's crowded shores?
In
northern China's Haling Nature Reserve, a pair of
red-crowned cranes have
staked out
their nesting territory in the stubble of a
commercially managed reed
bed.
For
centuries,
cranes
have
been
revered
in
Chinas
symbols
of
longevity.
Their statues
were placed next to the Emperor's throne. The
cranes have cause
to celebrate. This
chick is a sign of hope in difficult times. Red-
crowned cranes
are one of the world's
most endangered species. Over the last century,
China has
lost nearly half of its
coastal wetlands and most of what remains is
managed for
the benefit
of
people,
not
wildlife. A
few
months
from
now,
this
chick
and
its
parents
will
face
a
long
migration
south
to
escape
the
harsh
northern
winter.
Their
route
will
take
them
along
a
coast
which
has
been
greatly
affected
by
human
activity. Along their journey, the cranes will be
joined by many thousands
of other
migrating birds. All heading south across the
Bahia Gulfand along the
shores of the Yellow and East China
Seas, some even reaching as far as the South
China Seain search of a safe winter
haven
. The annual bird
migration has been
going
on
for
thousands
of
years.
Here
at
Mount
Jinping
on
China's
northeast
coast,
there
is
surprising
evidence
that
people
have
lived
here
almost
as
long.
Seven
thousand
years
ago,
members
of
the
Shao
Hao
tribe
carved
magical
symbols representing
significant elements of their daily lives. The
petro glyphs
show
wheat
sheaves
connected
by
lines
to
human
figures,
the
first
known
recordings
of
cultivation
in
China.
Familiar
with
the
spectacle
of
yearly
bird
migrations, the Shao Hao people chose a
symbol of a bird as their totem. Mount
Jinping lies near the Shandong
peninsula, an important wintering site for migrant
1
birds, and even today there are still
communities along this coastline who retain a
special affinity with their local Jiao
village, on the north-eastern
shore of
the peninsula, is famous for its traditional
seaweed-thatched cottages.
On
a
chilly
morning
in
early
spring,Mr
and
Mrs
Qu
venture
out
at
first
lightarmed with the traditional seaside
accessories of bucket and the
Qus head
down into the harbour,a flock of whooper
swans,known affectionately
here as
search for tube holesin the mud at low
tide,the sign of cockles and razor shells
hidden
deep
gathering
shellfish
is
a
popular
pastime,the
main
business of Yandun Jiao happens further
out at the boats set out, with Mr
Qu
on board,the swans set a parallel whole of the
bay is a gigantic
seaweed men work all
day cleaning and tending the kelp frondsthat are
grown on ropes linked to a vast armada
of swans eat native seaweeds
growing
on the surface ropesrather than the valuable crop
of kelp,so they do no
harm to the
commercial operation. In the afternoon, as the
wind picks up out at
sea,the workers
and swans return to the culture of seeking
balance
with
nature
goes
back
a
long
way
in
China,it
is
rare
to
see
such
harmonious
relationships
on
China's
crowded
evening
draws
on,the
Qu
family
prepare their evening
meal of cockles,steamed bread and ers are
given
to
the
village
children
to
feed
the
's
fun
for
the
kids
and
providesan extra energy boost for the
birds as they face another cold
swans
have
been
using
this
sheltered
beat
as
a
winter
refuge
for
many
generations.
As
long
as
the
tradition
of
respect
for
nature
persists,
this
remarkable
association between the Yandun Jiao
community and their winter angels looks set
to continue. Out in the Bahia Gulf,
northeast of the swan village, a small rocky
island provides
a quiet
resting spot
for
migrating
birds.
But
Shihao
Island
has
hidden ' pit
vipers trapped here , years ago by rising sea
levels have
evolved a sinister
lifestyle. For
months of
the year there is nothing substantial
2
to
eat on the island, so the reptiles conserve their
energy by barely moving at all.
As
the
sun
warms
their
rocky
home,
the
snakes
climb
up
into
the
bushes
and
trees.
But they aren't here to
sunbathe. More and more vipers appear until
virtually
every perch where a bird
might land has been booby-trapped. Then the
waiting
game
begins.
The
serpents'
camouflage
is
remarkable,
but
so
are
the
birds'
reactions, as this
high-speed shot reveals. The birds will only stay
on the island
for a couple of weeks.
But although the snakes have been starving for
months,
their
only
hope
of
bagging
a
meal
is
to
be
patient
and
sit
tight.
The
slightest
miscalculation
and
the snake is
left
with
a
mouthful
of
feathers.
The
dropped
meal is tracked down
mainly by smell, the viper using its forked tongue
to taste
the air until it is close
enough to see its quarry. The final challenge is
to swallow a
meal
that's
twice
the
size
of
its
head.
It
does
so
by
dislocating
its
jaws
and
positioning its preys the beak is
pointing backwards. For the reptiles, this time of
plenty is all too brief. In a couple of
weeks, the migration will be overhand the
birds will have moved on. This could be
the snake's last meal for six months. But it
isn't just islands that experience
cycles of feast and famine. The sea, too, has its
seasons, a fact well known to fishing
communities along the neighboring coasts. In
Chewing
harbour,the
start
of
a
new
fishing
season
provides
the
excuse
for
a
massive
party.
But
for
boat
owner
Mr
Zhao,
it’s
a
day
of
prayer
as
well
as
celebration. Zhao hopes that by
presenting gifts and showing respect to the sea
goddess, he can help ensure a
prosperous and safe year
ahead for him
and his
crew.
Meanwhile,
drums,
firecrackers
and
fireworks
reflect
the
ancient
belief
that loud noises will frighten off
dangerous sea devils and bad fortune.
Occupying centre stage is a
representation of the sea dragon, mythical ruler
of
water and weather. In the calm of
the evening,Mr Zhao and his family light paper
boat flickering flame carries a wish
to the sea goddess, a tradition
passed
on
from
parents
to
children
over
countless
generations.
On
China's
crowded coasts, fishermen need to be
extremely
resourceful.
Hauling in the nets
3
is
hard
work,
and
so
far
there's
not
a
fish
in
sight.
Only
jellyfish.
Each
year,
millions of jellyfish
are carried south with the currents in the Bahia
Gulf. The
ecological story behind this
event is complex, but by no means unique to China.
Jellyfish are fast-breeding plankton
feeders. In recent years, human sewage and
fertilizers
from
intensive
farming
have
increased
plankton
blooms
in
the
Gulf,
providing extra jellyfish food. While
over-fishing has reduced their enemies and
competitors. It’s
a
phenomenon that has become increasingly widespread
across
the
world's
seas.
However,
what
is
seen
elsewhere
as
a
problem,
in
China
is
perceived as an
opportunity. Back on shore, mule carts transport
the jellyfish to
nearby warehouses
where they will be processed and sold as food all
over China.
Four generations tuck into
a bowl of sliced
jellyfish, the recipe
for a long and
healthy life.
Leaving the Bahia Gulf
behind, migrating cranes, spoonbills and ducks are
joined
by
other
birds,
all
heading
south
in
search
of
a
safe
winter
haven.
The
birds'
migration route follows the coast of
the Yellow Sea down into Jiangsu Province, a
fertile
agricultural
landscape
with
some
of
the
last
remaining
salt
marshes
in
China. At Dafeng,a small salt marsh
reserve is home to an animal which is lucky to
be alive. The Chinese see these Milo as
a curious composite animal, with a horse's
head, cow’s
feet, a tail
like a donkey and backwards-facing antlers. In the
West,
we know it as Peer David's Deer,
after the first European to describe it.
During
the
rut,
stags
decorate
themselves
with
garlands
of
vegetation
collected in
their antlers. Fierce battles decide mating
rights. The females still
have last
year's fawns in tow. They haven't been
weane
d by the time of the
rut
and band together in large crèches,
only returning to their mothers to feed. This
unique behavior helps to keep them
clear of the aggressive males. Today, there
are just , Milo in China, but it is
remarkable that there are any at all. In the early
s Milo became extinct in the wild, but
luckily, some of the Imperial herd had been
sent as a gift to Europe. Those at
Woburn Abbey, in England, prospered. And in
the early s,
of
the deer were returned to their homeland where
they continue to
4
thrive.
The
migrating
cranes
have
so
far
travelled
over
2000
kilometers
southwards along
the coast. Passing the Milo Deer Reserve at
Dafeng,they are
approaching
another
salt
marsh
which
will
provide
the
perfect
conditions
for
them to spend the
winter. This is Yanting, the largest coastal
wetland in China,
visited by an
estimated three million birds each year. Crane
chicks that were only
born seven months
ago have now completed the first leg of a round
trip which
they will repeat every year.
The
hardy
cranes
can
cope
with
winter
temperatures
which
may
drop
below
freezing.
However,
other
migrating
birds,
like
the
endangered
black-faced
spoonbill, are less cold-tolerant and
will continue even further south in search of
warmer climes. At this point, many of
the migrating bird flocks are barely halfway
along
their
southward
journey.
Ahead
of
them
lies
a
new
challenge,
China’s
greatest
river, the Yangtze, and the venue for a very
different kind of migration.
Each year,
millions of tons of cargo travel up and down the
river, making this one
of the busiest
waterways in the world. These are Chinese mitten
crabs, named for
their strange hairy
claws.
They
may
migrate as
much
as 1500
kilometers
from
tributaries and lakes
to the river mouth, where they gather to breed. A
similar
migration is made by the giant
Yangtze sturgeon, which can reach four metres
long and weigh half a ton. In recent
years, its numbers have declined dramatically
as its migration is
impede
d by ever more river
dams. But it isn't just animals like
the
sturgeon
that
are
in
trouble,
the
entire
Yangtze
River
ecosystem
is
being
poisoned. In spite of
being the subject of an ambitious clean-up plan,
today the
river is reckoned to be the
biggest single source of pollution entering the
Pacific
Ocean. Situated right at the
mouth of its estuary,Chongming Island provides a
vital resting and feeding spot for
migrating shorebirds, and a place which offers
welcome
evidence
of
changing
attitudes
towards
the
Yangtze's
beleaguered
wildlife.
For
centuries
these
coastal
mudflats
have
attracted
hunters,
like
Mr
Jin,who
have
honed
their trapping
skills to perfection to put rare birds on the
tables of Shanghai's elite. For 40
years Mr Jin has used a net, simple decoy birds
5
and
a
bamboo
whistle
to
lure
passing
birds
towards
his
nets.
It
takes
both
patience and consummate skill.
But,
all
is
not
as
it
seams’
Jin,
like
many
of
the
best
conservationists,
is
poacher turned gamekeeper, using his
hunting skills to benefit his old quarry. The
staff
here
at
Dunstan
Bird
Reserve
will
measure,
ring
and
weigh
the
trapped
birds before releasing them unharmed.
The information gathered by Mr Jin and
his colleagues helps to protect over
different species of birds
which visit the
island each year. Just
south of Chongqing Island lies China's largest
coastal city,
ed
on
a
major
migration
route
for
birds
as
well
as
river
life,Shanghai
is
now
preparing
for
an
even
bigger
loaded
with
building
materials
constantly
arrive
in
the
city's
docks,feeding
one
of
the
greatest construction booms in the
world. Last year, half the world's concrete
was poured into China's cities, all in
preparation for the biggest mass migration of
people in the history of the world. In
the next 25 years, well over 300 million
people
are
predicted
to
move
from
rural
China
into
cities
like
migration of people from
country to
city’s
being
mirror
ed around the world,
and
by
over
half
of
the
world's
population
will
be
urban
dwellers.
As
night
falls,
Shanghai reveals its true 's fastest-
growing financial
centre’s
in the
midst
of
a
massive
an
estimated
population
of
more
than
20
million,Shanghai
is
officially
China's
large
stand
certainly
its
most
dazzling
there is an environmental ai residents
now use two and a half
times more power
per head than their rural cousins.
The city's seemingly
insatiable
energy demands
currently require the output of
power
stations.
South
of
Shanghai
the
city
lights
gradually
fades
we
enter
an
ancient world. This is Fujian Province,
a rugged terrain guarded by sheer granite
mountains which have helped to forge
and preserve some of China's most ancient
sites
and
traditional
cultures.
Towering
above
the
coast,
the
1400-meter-high
Tami
Mountains are known to the Chinese as
Sea”. Moist
sea
breezes condense on the cool
mountaintops and combine with well-drained acid
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