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It's Tough at the Top
Mount Everest has long been a great
attraction to millions of people
throughout the
课文一
艰难登顶
world. Many
people have risked and lost their
珠穆朗玛峰对于全世界数百万人来
lives in the
course of expedition. Modern
说,
长期以来有着巨大的吸引力。<
/p>
在征服
explorers,
however,
are
becoming
more
fascinated
珠穆朗玛峰的过程中,许多人冒了巨大的
by
the
ultimate
fate
of
earlier
doomed
explorers.
危险,而且失去了生命。然而,现代探险
者对早年遭到厄运的攀登者的最终命运,
reportedly
replied when asked why he wanted to
表现出越来越浓厚的兴趣。
climb
Mount
Everest.
The
only
man
to
take
part
in
all three of the British pioneering
expeditions
据说
,
当乔治·马罗礼被问及他为何
in
the
1920s,
Mallory
was
driven
by
a
fascination
要攀登珠峰时,他这样回答,“因为有珠
to
reach
the
summit
of
the
mountain
with
which
he
峰”。
他是唯一参加二十世纪二十年代英
had
formed a
strong personal
bond with.
国组织的
所有三次征服珠峰活动的探险
hell-like
mountain, cold and treacherous,
家。他对珠峰怀有
强烈的情感,一直神往
once wrote in a letter home
from Everest Base
登上山顶。“它是一座魔鬼般的大山,冷
Camp.
risks
of
getting
caught
are
too
great;
峻而且反复无常,”他在珠峰大本营给家
the margin
of strength when men are at great
人写信时有一次这样写道。“冒的险实在
heights
is
too
small.
Perhaps
it
is
mere
folly
to
太大;人们攀登峰顶时可使的力量又是这
go up
again. But how can I be out of the
hunt?
么小。也许只是发疯了才再次攀登。可是
In
1920 when Francis Younghusband, the
President of the Royal Geographical
Society
我怎能摆脱这种诱惑呢?”
(RGS), first
put forward the idea of supporting
an
expedition
to
Everest,
the
mountain
was
still
a mystery.
At 8 848 meters Everest was almost 1
500 meters higher than anyone had
previously
1920
年皇家地理学会主席弗兰西
climbed.
There
was
even
doubt
as
to
whether
it
was
斯·扬哈斯本首次提出支持珠峰探险的想
possible
to
breathe
at
such
altitude.
At
the
time
法时,人们对这座山
还一无所知。高达
no one had been
within 65 kilometers of the
8848
米的珠峰比当时人类攀登过的最高
mountain,
which
could
only
be
approached
through
峰还高出
1500<
/p>
米。
人们甚至怀疑,
在这样
the unknown kingdoms of Nepal or China's
Tibet.
的高度有没有可能呼吸。那时,还没有人
With
the North and South Poles already
到过珠峰
周围
65
公里的范围,只能从人
discovered,
Younghusband had his sights set on
们不太熟悉的尼泊尔王国或中国的西藏走
the
pole
setting
up
the
joint
RGS/Alpine
近这座高山。
Club, Mount Everest Committee.
accomplishment of such a feat will
elevate the
human spirit and will give
man, especially us
geographers, a
feeling that we are acquiring a
true
mastery of our surroundings. This is the
incalculable good which the ascent of
Mount
Everest will confer,
High Hopes
随着人们发现了北极与南极,扬哈斯
< br>本把他的目光投向“第三极”,设立联合
皇家地理学会
/
登山俱乐部下属的珠穆朗
玛峰委员会。“这次壮举的完成将振奋
人
类精神,也让人类,尤其是我们地理学家
George
Mallory
and
Andrew
Irvine
had
set
out
感到,我们正在成为我们这个环境真正的
from
Camp
VI
on
8
June
1924,
attempting
to
become
主人。
登上珠穆朗玛峰所产生的
效益是难
the
first
men
to
set
foot
on
the
summit.
They
never
以估量的,”扬哈斯本说道。
returned.
Today,
with
more
than
550
mountaineers
厚望
from
20
countries
having
reached
the
summit,
the
mystery has shifted away
from Everest the
mountain,
towards
Mallory
the
man.
In
March
1999,
乔治·马罗礼与安德鲁·欧文于
75 years after
Mallory's death on the mountain,
1924
p>
年
6
月
8
日从六号营地出发,
试图成
the
Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition set
为首次登上珠峰的人。可他们再也没有回
out for
Everest, not because it was there, but
来。
时至今日,
已有
20
个国家五百五十多
because
he
was.
Leader
of
the
1999
expedition
Eric
名登山运动员登顶成功。谜团也就从珠峰
Simonson
and his team were hoping to discover
这座
山转向马罗礼这个人了。
1999
年
3
月,
whether or not the two men
achieved their goal
在马罗礼罹难后的第
75
年,
马罗里—欧文
before
they died.
研究探险队向珠峰进发,不是因为珠峰在
They
had only a few clues to go on. In 1933
那里,而是因为他在那里。
1999
年探险队
< br>an
ice
axe,
thought
to
be
Irvine's,
had
been
found
长埃里克·西门松及其队员希望发现这两
on the
route, and in 1975, the body of a climber
人死之前是否成功登顶。
was
discovered nearby by a Chinese climber who
described it as being an
account of the vintage
clothes the body still
他
们只有几条探寻的线索。
1933
年,
wore. However, the identity of the dead climber
在登山线路上找到被认为是欧文使用的一
has never
been confirmed. Simonson's team
把冰斧。
1975
年,一名中国登山运动员在
expe
cted to relocate the body during their high
附近发现一具登山者的尸体,将其描述为
level
search. They anticipated it to be Irvine,
“一位年长的英国死者”,因为尸体穿的
the
inexperienced Oxford graduate who had
是老式衣服。然而,这位死去的登山者的
possibly
fallen, dropping his ice axe
on
the icy
身份从未得到确认。西门松的探险队期望
slabs
of
Everest's
North
Face.
Mallory's
fate
was
在高地再
< br>次找到那具尸体。
他们认为会是
unknown.
Searching amongst the
snow gullies and
欧文,这位经验不足的牛津毕业生可能是
从悬崖上坠落的,将冰斧掉在珠峰北坡的
scouring
ledges
at
8
320
meters,
Simonson's
team
冰层上。马罗礼的下落则不清楚。
discovered a body, the skin bleached
porcelain
white
by
the
sun.
It
was
lying
face
down,
head
and
arms frozen
into the earth. Only the collars of
the tattered clothes were intact and on
one was
uncovered a
manufacturer's label, still legible
在
8320
米的雪沟与冰棱间搜寻时,
西
despite
years
of
vicious
assaults
by
ice
and
wind.
门松小组人员发现了一具尸体,太阳把他
Beneath
this
was
another
label,
which
they
could
的皮肤
晒成瓷白色。
尸体的脸部朝下,
头
all easily read. In simple carefully stitched
与双臂与地面冻成一块。破碎不堪的衣服
letters
was
written:
G
Mallory.
Mallory's
name
on
只有领子完好无损。其中一个领子上发现
the
clothes so surprised the search party their
制造厂商的标签。虽经数十年的风霜冰雪
first
thought was to wonder why Irvine had been
严酷吹打,标签上的字仍清晰可辨。在这
wearing
his climbing partner's shirt. The
块标签下还有另一块标签,队员们很容易
discovery
of Mallory's body prompted admiration
辨
出上面的字。
简单而细心缝制的字母为:
of
expedition search member, Jake Norton.
G.
Mallory
。衣服上的马罗礼的名字令搜
climber,
to
know
what
Mallory
did
was
phenomenal.
He was a
powerful tough guy, who fought till the
寻小组感到十分惊讶,他们的第一个反应
end,
就是猜测欧文为何穿着他登山伙伴的衬
During
the early decades of the twentieth
衫?发现了马罗礼尸体后,探险队员杰
century,
it
was
this
strength,
tenacity
and
love
克·诺顿对其产生了无比的敬意。“作为
of
adventure which had established Mallory as a
一名登山者,了解马罗礼所做的事情意义
leading
figure
in
the
close-knit
climbing
world.
重大。他是一位意志极为坚强的人,战斗
He was an
obvious choice for the Mount Everest
到最后一息,”诺顿跟记者这样说道。
Committee as part of the first
reconnaissance
expedition in 1921. For Mallory this
was the
opportunity
of
a
lifetime.
It
was
a
challenge,
but
二十世纪前几十年时间里,力量、坚
that only
increased its appeal, for as he once
韧不拔与富于冒险的精神使马罗礼在组织
said:
To
refuse
the
adventure
is
to
run
the
risk
严密的登山界成为一名出类
拔萃的人。
of drying up like a pea
in its shell.
By 1924,
after two exhausting and
unsuccessful
attempts to the mountain on
expeditions
in 1921 and 1922, his early
1921
年他被珠穆朗玛峰委员会一眼相中,
成为第一个珠峰探险队的成员。对于马罗<
/p>
礼来说,这是一生一次的机会。这次攀登
珠峰是一次挑战,但挑战
更提高了它的吸
enthusiasm
began
to
wane.
He
was
now
38
years
old.
引力,因为正如马罗礼曾经说过的那样,
A family
man with three children, he had just
“拒绝这次冒险机会等于让自已庸庸碌碌
begun a
teaching job at Cambridge. Yet, he
地渡过一生。”
couldn't
resist one final attempt to complete a
task
he
had
started.
Meeting
Irvine,
recommended
by
Noel
Odell,
the
expedition's
geologist,
buoyed
到了
1924
年,经过
1921
年与
1922
him up for the
challenge. Although Irvine was
年两次使人精疲力竭的失败尝试后,马罗
young with
no track record as a climber, he was
礼早
期的热情开始减退。
他已
38
岁。
p>
作为
strong, resourceful and
good-natured. The
有三个孩子的一家之主,他开始在剑桥大
expedition
学执教。然而他无法抵挡作最后一试的诱
had
warmed
to
him
immediately,
describing
him
as
惑,以完成他已开始的
事业。他会见了探
险队地质学家诺尔·奥德尔推荐的欧文,
p>
companion on the mountain.
Before departing for the 1924
expedition
这重新唤起他应对挑战的干劲。虽然欧文
年轻,还没有登山记录,但他体魄强壮,
Mallory
had
confided
in
a
friend
that
it
would
be,
主意又多,而且性格随和。在探险队里,
队员们
称他为“超人”。马罗礼马上给他
prepared for
a siege on the summit. Two attempts
鼓劲,称他为“好汉”,会是“登山中一
were to be
made, one with oxygen and one without
个出色的伙伴。”
but
Everest repelled both attempts. Mallory's
climbing teams
were defeated through lack of
oxygen
and
exhaustion. He refused to give up and
was determined to risk one last try.
Only Odell
and
Irvine
were
in
a
fit
state
to
partner
him.
For
Mallory it
was a simple choice. He threw his lot
1924
年的探险出发前,
马罗礼私下跟
in
with
Irvine
and
the
pair
set
off
on
their
fatal
一位朋友说,这次探险“与其说是一场冒
summit
bid.
险不如说是一场战争,”而他做好在山顶
The
day
after
Mallory
and
Irvine
departed
for
遭受灾难来袭的准备。他们打算做两种尝
-spider
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