foods-yomi
A
Appliqué
:
Surface pattern made by cutting out
fabric or lace designs and
attaching
them to another fabric or lace by means of
embroidery or
stitching.
Section of a garment through which an
arm passes or into which a
sleeve is
sewn.
Distance from High Point Shoulder
or Low Point Shoulder measured
to
imaginary line at base of armhole that is at a
90-degree angle
from CF or CB.
Armhole:
Armhole
Drop:
Armhole Point:
The point on a pattern where armhole
and side seam intersect.
Armscye:
See
definition for
Armhole.
B
Backstitch:
Backtack:
See
definition for
Backtack.
Stitches used to secure the threads at
the beginning and/or ending of
a row of
stitching.
Lining that is stitched
securely to shell at hems.
Garment
appears symmetrical on the body. Hanging equal
distances
from the body right to left,
and front to back.
Bagged
Lining:
Balance:
Balanced Plaid/Stripe
Placement:
Refers
to the symmetrical appearance of the plaid on the
body. The
stripe/plaid must start at
the same point on both sides of the
garment.
Banana Stand:
Band Neckline, Circular:
See definition for
Half Moon
Stand
.
For definition
see
set-circular
.
Band Neckline,
Flat:
For definition
see
set-flat
Barrel Button:
See definition for
Toggle Button
.
Bartack:
A series
of short stitches sewn close together and used to
reinforce
areas of strain or stress.
Can be zigzag or straight stitching.
Basting Stitch:
Bellow:
Bellying:
Belt loop:
Temporarily holds together two layers
of fabric.
A method of adding fullness
to an area of a garment, usually a
pocket. Often stitched around edges to
hold shape.
See
Cockling
Narrow
strip of fabric or thread chain at the waistline
to keep a belt in
position.
See definition for
Welt Pocket
.
Cutting diagonally across the grain of
the fabric at a 45 degree angle
to the
selvedge, resulting in a garment that clings and
follows body
curves closely.
Besom Pocket:
Bias Cut:
Bind Off (Sweater):
Binding:
See
definition for
Cast
Off
.
A narrow strip of
fabric used to cover seams or raw edges to give a
clean finished edge and is visible on
both sides of the fabric. Can be
single-turned, double-turned or
combination.
Blanket Stitch(502)
Blended Yarns:
Yarns composed of two or more different
fibers mixed together and
then spun to
form one yarn.
For Definition see
Hem
and
103
Blindstitch:
Blistering:
Block:
Blocking:
See
definition for
Bubbling
.
See definition for
Sloper
.
The
shaping of a sweater into its finished form. Steam
and pressure
are applied to make the
blocked shape hold.
Outer layer of
fabric in a garment.
The numerical
measurement of force required to separate the
interlining from the piece goods. The
measurement of gram force is
recorded
in Newton (N = 102gf) or Ounce (oz = 28.35gf).
Process of joining 2 fabrics into one
by backing with adhesive or
foam.
Body Fabric:
Bond
Strength:
Bonding:
Boning:
Firm
flexible strip, like nylon, concealed in casing to
hold shape or
prevent stretching.
Bootcut Silhouette:
Bound Buttonhole:
For definition see buttonhole
Bound Neckline,
Circular:
For definition
see
set-circular
.
Bound Neckline,
Flat:
For definition
see
set-flat
Bound Seam:
Method of finishing a seam
by binding seam allowance.
Bow, Bowing:
A
fabric flaw in which the crosswise yarns arc
across the width of the
fabric.
Box
Pleat:
Pleat
formed by folding material alternately in opposite
directions.
Box Pleat Inverted Box Pleat
Braided Elastic:
Bubbling:
See
definition for
Elastic
Braided
The separation at
different points between the interlining and the
piece goods.
Buckle:
A
fastening device, in a variety of sizes and
shapes, consisting of an
open rim
having a single or center bar, with or without a
prong.
Bust
Dart:
See
definition for
Dart
.
Busted
Seam:
Button:
See definition for
Pressed
Open Seam
.
Decorative or
functional component used to hold two sides of a
garment together. Can be made out of
many materials and can either
have
holes punched in the center for stitching or a
shank on the
back. Buttons are made to
slip through a buttonhole or fabric loop.
See definition for
Button.
Button and Loop
Cross-
Stitch Attached:
Button Parallel Stitch
Attached:
See
definition for
Button.
Buttonhole:
Opening for a button to pass through
and secure a garment opening.
Can be
bound, stitched/worked, or made from a loop of
thread, cord
or bias tubing.
See definition for
Placket.
Button Sleeve Placket:
Button
Stabilizer:
A plain flat
button usually made of clear plastic placed inside
a
garment behind the top outside
button. Can be used anywhere there
are
buttons for closure.
C
Cap
Snap:
See definition
for
Snap.
Cargo
Pocket:
A stylized
patch pocket
, often with
bellows
, with flap closure
at the
top.
Fold of fabric
stitched down to form an opening through which
elastic
or a cord
is drawn.
Methods of removing open
stitches from the needles must be finished
with a bind off (like rib neck trim) to
prevent unraveling of the
finished
edge. Can also be decorative stitches within a
panel.
See definition of
Sweater Start
.
Topstitch
on each side of
the seam, equal distance from the seam.
Can be produced by two single needles
or 1 double needle.
Casing:
Cast Off (Sweater):
Cast On (Sweater):
Centered Over Seam
Stitch:
Chain Tack:
See
definition for
Swing Tack
.
See definition
for
Ruler Pocket
.
See definition for
Set
Circular
See definition for
Tubular Knit
.
Chisel Pocket:
Circular Finish:
Circular Knit:
Clean Finish:
Indicates that
raw
edges
of fabric are finished in a way
that stops
fabric from fraying and
hides raw edges.
See definition
for
Die Cutting
.
Components that work together to hold 2
sides of a garment
together.
Cockling and Bellying mean the same
thing. If elastic has a wavy
appearance
along its length, this is called cockling or
bellying. The
primary cause is when the
individual ends of spandex (rubber) relax
or contract more than the majority in
the same length of the elastic
causing
waviness along the top edge.
Small
decorative pocket usually found on bottom
garments, usually
located inside side
pocket. Can be a
patch
pocket
or
on-seam
pocket
construction.
Clicking:
Closure:
Cockling:
Coin
Pocket:
Collar:
No Band Collar With Band Collar
Collar Stay:
Narrow strip of plastic or metal
inserted in point of collar from the
underside or is sewn to interlining
between layers of collar fabric
added
to garment to ensure a crisp unwrinkled look.
Collarband:
Collarstand:
See
definition for Collarstand
Separate
shaped piece of fabric that is the full length of
garment
neckline and is inserted
between garment neckline and collar. Used to
help shape and fit collar to body and
also can be used to close
neckline.
Color Fast:
A term used to determine
whether a color ?bleeds? during laundering.
This is normally measured by a grading
system 1
–
5.
Zipper
is set along folded
edges of seam line with zipper teeth not
visible. Some specific construction
methods are center lapped or
kissing
, side lapped, and
invisible.
Processes in order to
construct a garment, consists of stitching
and/or fusing garment pieces together.
Concealed Zipper:
Construction:
Continuous Sleeve Placket:
See definition for
Placket.
Contoured
Waistband:
See definition
for
Waistband
.
Cording:
See definition for
Piping
.
Cordlock:
A
locking device that is typically spring activated
and may have 1 or
2 holes. Used to
adjust
drawcords
, etc.
Core
Thread:
Thread
formed by spinning a cotton, rayon, or
polyester fiber around
a continuous
filament bundle of fibers giving the thread the
advantages of a
spun
and
Filament
construction.
A crosswise or horizontal row of loops
in knitted fabric.
Course:
Covered Button:
See definition for
Button
.
Crack-stitched:
Crescent Stand:
Crocking:
See
definition for
Stitch-in-
the-Ditch
.
See definition
for
Half Moon Stand
.
The transfer of dye stuff from one
fabric to another by friction. This
problem is usually worse with darker
shades. Reds are often a
problem in
this respect. This is a dyeing problem and can be
dealt
with in the dye house.
The cutting of a pattern piece
perpendicular to the selvedge of the
fabric
Cross
Grain Cut:
Crotch:
Crotch
Curve:
The
bottom of a
rise
curve.
Crotch
Depth:
The straight distance
from crotch to top of waistband in pants, shorts,
etc.
Crotch Point:
The
point on the
pattern
where
the front or back
rise
intersects with
the
inseam
.
Curtain Waistband:
A method of finishing the waist of a
garment that is a separate sewn
on
facing
that hangs below
lower seam of waistband made of fabric
other than
shell
that is
interface
d/
interlined
or turned.
Sweater panels are knit to the body
length of the largest size, the
shape
of the neckline, shoulders and armholes are cut
out, smaller
sizes are cut down.
Cut and Sew
(Sweater):
Cut
On Placket:
See definition
for
Placket.
Cutting:
Formation of garment pieces from layers
(plies) of fabric by means of
a
die
,
laser
or
knife
. Typically done on a
long table.
D
Dart:
A sewn
wedge or diamond shaped tuck/seam used to make a
garment conform to the curves of the
body.
A separation in the bond between
the fusible interlining and the piece
goods. This can be total separation
(total delamination) or partial
separation (localized delaminiation).
Weight measurement of
yarns
. Low numbers represent
the finer sizes
and the higher numbers
represent the coarser/heavier sizes.
Also see definition for
Elastic Denier
Sharp metal outlines in the shape of
pattern
pieces used to cut
plies
of fabric
in conjunction with either a click press or die
cutting press.
Typically used for
smaller pattern pieces.
Occurs when the
piece goods and the interlining are not moving in
sync and will cause distortion in the
surface appearance of the
garment part.
See definition for
Triangle
Reinforce Stitch
.
See
definition for
Centered Over
Seam Stitch
.
Delamination:
Denier:
Die
Cutting:
Differential
Shrinkage:
Doghouse
Stitch:
Double Needle
Centered
Over Seam:
Double Turn Hem:
See definition for
Hem
.
Double Yoke/ Stylized
Yoke:
See
definition for
Yoke.
Drape:
Drawcord:
Drawstring:
See
definition for
Hang
.
See definition for
Drawstring
.
A
narrow string, ribbon, cord, or tube of fabric
inserted into a
casing
and pulled up or tied to create shape
and/or hold the garment to the
body.
Dress
Form:
D-Ring:
See definition
for
Mannequin.
“D” shaped piece of hardware often used
to create an adjustable
closure held
together by a looped and stitched end of a belt.
E
Ease:
The method
of sewing together 2 components of varying seam
lengths evenly
distributing fullness so
as not to cause gathers or puckers. See
definitions for
Tight, Moderate and
Generous.
The amount of room above body
measurements needed in a garment to allow
adequate movement when worn.
See definition for
Slant Pocket
.
A narrow elastic band,
often used as trimmings and bindings. Formed by
plating several strands of yards and
bare elastomers. Braided elastic usually
becomes narrowed when elongated. Made
on a circular braiding machine.
The
size or thickness of the yarn. Also thickness of
spandex (The lower the
number the
weaker the spandex)
Natural Rubber
Thread
Stretch
–
measure 5” relaxed and pull to
m
aximum; measurement result given
in a %.
Ease Over
Body:
Eighth Top
Pocket:
Elastic
Braided:
Elastic
Denier:
Elastic
Elastomers:
Elastic
Elongation:
Elastic Ends of
Rubber:
The number of
strands of rubber used to manufacture a particular
size or
quality of elastic.
Thickness of rubber (The lower the
number the stronger the rubber)
Fabric
construction for interlocking series of looper of
one or more yarns.
Materials normally
used are textured polyester yarns or textured
nylon and
bare spandex or extruded
rubber. Made on a flat bed crochet machine.
Power (resistance to stretch), strength
or tension of the elastic. The force
required to pull the elastic to a
specific stretch/length, determines the amount
of pressure the elastic is putting on
the wearer?s body.
Elastic
that has enough width wise stability so it does
not bend, roll or crush
across its
width when worn. Made with monofilament thread.
Ability of elastic to retain its
original length immediately after stretching and
releasing. After stretching the elastic
to its maximum capability. The elastic
must return to 90% to 92% of its
original length.
See definition for
Waistband
Elastic
Gauge:
Elastic
Knitted:
Elastic
Modulus:
Elastic Non
Roll:
Elastic
Recovery:
Elastic Waistband:
Elastic Woven:
Primarily made up of warp
yarns, fill yarns and covered spandex or covered
extruded rubber. Generally thicker and
denser due to the bulkiness of the
covered elastomers and stitch
formations. Made on a shuttle loom.
An
end of spandex which has been covered or twisted
with yarn.
Fancy needlework or
trimming using colored yarn, floss, cotton, silk
or metallic
threads.
See
definition for
French Seams
.
Elastomeric:
Embroidery:
Enclosed Seam:
Ends of Rubber:
The number of strands of rubber used to
manufacture a particular size or
quality of elastic.
See
definition for
Construction
.
Seams in which the seam allowances are
visible on the outside of the garment.
Execution:
Exposed Seam:
Exposed Zipper:
Zipper is set along folded edges of
seam line with zipper teeth visible.
Expression of
Fit:
Designer?s vision of
how the garment should fit on the human
form.
The key
elements of
fit that are related to the styling of the garment
include, but are
not limited to, where
the garment sits on the waist of the body and how
tight
fitting a garment is. It is
possible for a garment to achieve an excellent
fit, but
still not have achieved the
designer?s vision for fit.
See definition
for
Waistband.
Extended Tab
Waistband:
Eyelet:
Small circular plastic or metal tube
secured to fabric to form an opening. Can
also be formed by a round embroidered
opening. Can be decorative or used
with
cord.
F
Fabric:
Cloth
made of textile yarns or fibers by weaving,
knitting, lace making, braiding,
netting, or felting. Can
also be made
by bonding or non-woven methods.
See definition
for
Hand
.
Surface of fabric designated in the
weaving/knitting
process to be used as
the outside of a finished
garment.
Piece of fabric used to finish a raw
edge. Facings are
turned to the inside
of a garment enclosing seams.
Fabric Hand Feel:
Face:
Facing:
Faggoting:
Open-work
embroidery
done by drawing
out horizontal
threads of fabric, then
tying the vertical threads in
groups to
produce open spaces, OR, decorative
stitching that holds together two
closely spaced folded
edges of fabric
with ornamental stitches.
Fashioning Marks
(Sweater):
Raised “twists” that results from
transferring loops to
adjacent needles
to decrease the width of the knitted
panel, usually occurs in a series at
neckline and
armhole.
Felled Seam:
Process that conceals seam allowance
between plies as
they are folded
together and topstitched through all
layers.
Female Closure:
Fiber:
Basic
filament
or strand from
which yarns are made.
Fibers are either
short with natural materials or
man-
made materials which are made in
long continuous
filaments.
A
fiber
of indefinite or
extreme length as found in silk
or
synthetic fibers.
Crosswise or
horizontal yarn of a woven fabric that
runs at right angles to the warp yarns
or selvage.
Filament:
Fill:
Findings:
All the
smaller items and trimmings that complete a
garment. Maybe decorative material that
adorns the
garment.
A small
knitted stitch usually 12 to 24 gauge.
Fine Gauge
(Sweater):
Finishing:
All
the final stages of preparing a garment for point
of
sale. Includes, but not limited to,
washing, pressing,
thread clipping,
inspection, ticketing, etc.
For
Definition see
buttonhole
.
Fishtail
Buttonhole:
Fit:
How well a garment conforms to the
3-dimensional
human body.
Individual who represents the figure
type of the
intended guest used to
evaluate the fit of garments.
See
definition for
Ease Over
Body
.
Fit Model:
Fitting Ease:
Flap Pocket:
Flare Leg
Silhouette:
Flat Felled
Seam:
Flat
Finish:
Flat
Knit:
Flat Knit Collar:
See definition for
Felled Seam.
See definition
for
Set Flat
.
Fabric knitted flat and has selvages.
Floating Tack:
Fraying:
See
definition for
Swing
Tack
.
Fraying is the
unraveling of yarn in either the fill or
warp
direction.
Lining not attached at garment hem.
Free Hanging
Lining:
French
Dart:
See definition
for
Dart
.
French Fly
Facing:
A
separate sewn on fabric tab or extension used to
cover zipper teeth. It extends from
bottom of zipper to
waistband and
buttons to inside of pants near waist.
French
Seams:
Process where raw
edges of a seam are enclosed
between
garment plies as they are turned over and
stitched, forming a clean finish.
French
Tack:
Frog:
See definition for
Swing Tack
.
Ornamental braided two piece garment
closure forming
button and loop
Full Fashioned
/
Knit to Shape
(Sweater):
Sweater panel is knit to shape by
increasing and
decreasing the number of
needles used during the
knitting
action. No cutting is required to obtain the
desired panel shape.
Full Needle Rib
(Sweater):
Double
bed construct commonly used at start or
placket; looks like 1X1 rib, but is
more compact. Can
be either link/loop
attached (see linking/Looping
Definition) or continuous knit attach.
Full
Placket:
See definition for
Placket.
Fusible:
Fabric containing heat sensitive
adhesive for
application using heat and
pressure. Commonly seen
on interfacing
or decorative trims.
G
Gathering:
Gauge
Elastic:
Gauge
(Sewing)
See definition
for
Shirring
.
See definition for
Elastic
Gauge
The distance between
needles on a sewing
machine.
Gauge(Knits/Sweaters):
Denotes the number of needles per inch
on a
knitting machine. The larger the
number (gauge)
the finer the knit.
Example 12 gg has 12 needles
per inch
vs 3 gg with 3 needles per inch.
Gauntlet:
A type
of sleeve
placket
.
Generous Ease:
Godet:
Loosely
fits to body with a large amount of ease.
Triangle shaped inset of fabric that
creates
fullness, or greater width.
Typically used in skirts
and bell-
bottom pants.
Skirt section that is
wider at the hem than the
waist,
providing fullness and shaping to waist
without using darts.
Gore:
Graded
Pattern:
Individual patterns
for each size within a size
range.
The process of proportionately
increasing or
decreasing a core size
pattern to create patterns
accordingly
in relationship to body growth.
Warp or lengthwise
direction of the fabric,
running
parallel to the selvage.
See
definition for
Greige Goods.
Pronounced
(gr
or
gr
zh)
. An unfinished
fabric just off the loom or knitting
machine.
1) The ability to see under
layer of fabric or
lining through the
garment shell fabric due to
color or
fabric weight. 2)
A printing
term
referring to either poor cover
where the
background shade shows
through the print.
Grading:
Grain:
Greige
Fabric:
Greige
Goods:
Grin
Through:
Grommet:
Gusset:
See
definition for
Eyelet
.
Shaped
piece of fabric inserted into a garment
seam or slash opening to permit greater
movement. Commonly found on underarms,
crotch of pants, thermal underwear, and
active
wear.
H
Half Moon
Patch:
See definition for
Sweat
Patch
.
Separate shaped piece of fabric that is
not the full length of
garment neckline
and is inserted between garment
neckline and collar. Used to help shape
and fit collar to
body.
Half Moon
Stand:
Half Placket:
See definition for
Placket.
Hand:
Handle:
The
tactile characteristics that make up a fabric.
Refers to the texture/softness/feel of
the elastic when
being handled.
A rough estimation for the elongation
of a product. This
should be used only
as a tool for comparison.
How fabric
reacts on the human body after garment is
sewn.
Fastener used in
conjunction with a shank button.
Commonly used on overall straps.
Hand Stretch:
Hang:
Hasp:
Hem:
A way to finish an opening.
Hiking:
A term used to describe the problem
when a garment is
not balanced and an
area of the bottom opening is rising
higher than the rest of the garment.
Hollywood
Waistband:
A
method of finishing the waist by extending the
body of
the garment to form the shaping
of the waist. Usually clean
finished
with facing on the inside.
Hook:
Hook &
Bar:
See definition
for
Crotch Curve
.
A closure using a set of shaped metal
plates, one which is
curved to form a
broad hook, the other a raised bar.
Hook & Eye:
A closure using a small metal hook on
one side and either
an embroidered loop
or a small metal loop on the other
side.
Hook & Eye
Tape:
A fastening tape that has metal hooks
on one side and
either and embroidered
or metal loop on the other side.
Hook & Loop
Tape:
A fastening
tape that has very small nylon hooks that
mesh with loops on opposite tape.
Commonly known as
Velcro?.
Horizontal
Slant
Pocket:
See definition for
Slant Pocket
I
Inseam:
The seam
on garments located between legs and runs
from the crotch to the hem.
Interfacing:
Supporting fabric either sewn or fused
to the body
fabric for body, stability
and shape. Commonly used in
waistbands,
plackets, collars, cuffs, and as
reinforcement behind buttons and
buttonholes.
See definition
for
Interfacing.
Interlining:
Inverted Box Pleat:
See definition for Box Pleat
Invisible
Zipper:
Specially designed
zipper, no lines of stitching is
visible on the outside of the garment.
Finished
appearance is of a plain seam
with only part of the tab
visible on
the outside of the garment.
See definition for
Scoop Pocket
.
See
definition for Armhole.
K
Kangaroo
Pocket:
Usually a center
front pocket that has the pocket bag
attached to exterior of garment with
two openings.
Pocket can be one piece
or split into two pieces by
center
front closure.
Keyhole
Buttonhole:
For Definition
see
Buttonhole
Kick Pleat:
Clean finished opening at
the sweep of a garment
created by one
side of garment overlapping the other
to allow for movement.
Kimono Sleeve:
Kissing Zipper:
Zipper is centered under two folded
edges that meet
at the center of the
zipper teeth with two visible rows
of
parallel stitching. A specific type of concealed
zipper.
Knife Cutting:
Cutting plies of fabric by means of a
straight edge,
band or rotary knife.
For Definition see
Pleat.
Knife Pleat:
Knit Fabric:
Fabric constructed by interlocking a
series of loops by
hand or machine.
Panels are knit to the exact shape
required to
construct the sweater.
Cutting is allowed at the
neckline if
needed.
See definition for
Elastic Knitted
Knit to Shape
(Sweater):
Knitted Elastic:
L
Lacing:
Ribbon, cord, braid, or tubing in which
two free ends
are pulled alternately
through opposing eyelets,
grommets,
buttonholes, or under hooks.
Lapel:
Shaped piece of fabric on center front
opening above
top closure which folds
back to form a larger opening.
The
widest distance on the lapel, usually forming a
point.
Lapel
Point:
Lapped
Seam:
Process of attaching
two or more plies of fabric simply
by
layering atop each other and stitching through all
layers.
Lapped V-Neck:
See definition for
Miter
.
Lapped Zipper:
See definition for
Zipper
.
Laser Cutting:
Fabric is placed on a vacuum table
using suction and
plastic over the top
layer to stabilize plies before
cutting
with laser.
See definition
for
Marker
.
A decorative hem used on knit fabrics.
It is a dense
overedge hem 20-30
stitches per inch that is formed
by
stretching fabric while it passes through a 504 or
505 overlock machine. Machine is set
with differential
feed to have extra
ruffling than normal
sewing. Various
threads can be used but recommend
to
use textured nylon or textured poly.
Layout:
Lettuce Edge: